Any tips for installing engine?

1BADRAM

Diesel Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
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Anyone have any tips or tricks for installing an engine in my 99'? My 53' block has taken a crap on me so it looks like I'm going to be getting another engine already put together to stick in mine. Hoping to get it done in a weekend. What size cherry picker is needed? Is the worst part of the project getting the clutch lined back up with the input shaft?
 
You will need to pull the oil pan off to get the engine out. The engine weighs just over 1000 lbs
 
Thanks, I did not know that. Must not be able to lift the motor high enough to clear it and get the back of the engine out at the same time?
 
You can take the head off and it will give you enough clearance to get it out. We pulled the transmission when we put the engine back in. If you take the mounts loose and put the transmission on a jack you might be able to put it back in without removing the trans, but you will probably have to leave the head off. We pulled the engine out with trans still in but it wasn't as easy. We had an atv jack that we used for the transmission
 
Did not know that. Figured it would be easier to leave the transmission in it. I can leave the head off, thats no problem. Just want to be sure I can get the motor back in with the trans still in the truck. Great info, anyone have anything else?
 
Just remove front cab bolts and lift/tilt cab (you also need to remove steering shaft
 
Fork lift makes the jobs a LOT easier....

And when putting things back together, watch out for the heater core hard lines that come outta the firewall, as I guess they were bumped, just enough to put them outta round, and gave me the mystery leak from h*ll, as it would drip(or spray under pressure), down behind that insualtion and leak UNDER the truck...:doh:

Anyway, as with any other swap, its nickle and dime stuff, and of course you know, take your time....

Goo luck...
 
Hopefully it goes well. If I get the motor I'm looking at it's all together already. Except maybe the front accessories.
 
Im not sure what these other guys are talking about. I have never pulled or put a motor in where i had to have the head of or the oil pan. My ppump 24v we just put the motor in 3 weeks ago and i just left the valve cover and rocker arms off. It is close but easily doable. You will need the motor tipped back just slightly to make it easier. if you have it hanging level then take a ratchet strap on the front of the motor to the cherry picker arm to tip the front up alittle. We have also put in a bunch of motor without taking the tranny out. We have had pretty good luck doing it this way. With the motor hanging from a chain you can wiggle it on to the input shaft pretty dang easy. Tim
 
Agreed have done 2 cr's and a 12 valve lately, all that way. Just take #5 and 6 injectors out and rocker arms off, it'll be fine.
 
Thats some encouraging news. Sounds alot better. I do need to get a clutch alignment tool.
 
i have done three 12 valves never pulled pan or stering shaft just left 5-6 rockers and valve covers,never pulled tran auto or std
 
Go to a local tranny shop and see if they have any 1 3/8 inputs out of a six speed rebuild and cut the gear and bearing of the end of it and it will make life much better that the junk plastic ones. Or call Haisley and pay 150$ for a rear loading one which is even easier but its 150 buck.
 
i have done three 12 valves never pulled pan or stering shaft just left 5-6 rockers and valve covers,never pulled tran auto or std

Steering shaft removing is only needed if you tilt the cab.
 
You have a manual, getting the motor in/out and the input shaft in/out the crank at the same time will be "magical" I would think since things have move on an angle.

Most folks here have auto's. Totally different game once you just unbolt the converter from the flywheel.
 
Its not magical, it works. This is the way alot of shops do it. I know Schied has done it this way.
 
Will try and get a input shaft but may have to resort to the plastic tool. You could probably loosen up a couple tranny bolts a give it a little more wiggle room.
 
As was mentioned eariler, on a chain the motor will wiggle quite a bit. Put the tranny in gear, and get the motor close, turn the motor over if necessary to line up shafts. If runnng a dual disc hold up on the alignment tool, for a more accurate line up, as the weight of the 2nd disc will cause it to sag. It will still work, but holding up during alignment will yield better results.
 
The rubber tranny mount will allow for enough wiggle room. on a six speed i take our tranny jack and tip the front up to kinda match the angle of the motor coming in being tipped up also. I dont do this for a living, but im pretty confident this is a faily easy job. There has been the occasion where i have to walk away and cool down and then when you come back it will fall right into place. Tim
 
So it shouldn't be a problem to do in a weekend, probaly statring on a Friday evening?
 
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