Anyone else have problems with ARP studs corroding and breaking

rockjeep73

rockjeep73

New member
Joined
Jul 8, 2007
Messages
1,339
I have the normal ARP 2000 studs in my 24 valve, probably about 3 years old. 8 of them have corrosion and pitting, all 6 of the long ones along the exhaust side of the head and 2 short ones. 2 of the longs studs broke down towards the bottom.

Anyone else have these problems?

ARP tells me its my fault and I must have lifted my head which allowed coolant or exhaust gasses to get at the studs and damage them, which I dont think is the case as I have never had any head gasket problems.

I am thinking I am going to coat all of the studs with anti-seize when I put it back together to protect them.
 
WHO did you talk to at ARP that told you it was your fault with out even looking at them
Did they ask to look at them,
 
Yes they wanted to look at them before sending me new ones or helping me out in any way. I told them that wouldnt work because I need the truck running this weekend for a race on sunday. I got a call back after he spoke with someone in charge and they are sending me new studs to replace the ones with corrosion and I am paying for the overnight shipping which is fine. I am also going to be sending him the old studs so they can take a look at them.
They ended up taking care of me and working this out, but I was still told that the corrosion was most likely because of exhaust gasses and lifting the head, which I dont think is the case as this is a mid 600hp engine with an o-ringed head and never any headgasket issues.
 
rockjeep73 said:
Yes they wanted to look at them before sending me new ones or helping me out in any way. I told them that wouldnt work because I need the truck running this weekend for a race on sunday. I got a call back after he spoke with someone in charge and they are sending me new studs to replace the ones with corrosion and I am paying for the overnight shipping which is fine. I am also going to be sending him the old studs so they can take a look at them.
They ended up taking care of me and working this out, but I was still told that the corrosion was most likely because of exhaust gasses and lifting the head, which I dont think is the case as this is a mid 600hp engine with an o-ringed head and never any headgasket issues.
Click to expand...

This sounds more like it .
 
rockjeep73 said:
Yes they wanted to look at them before sending me new ones or helping me out in any way. I told them that wouldnt work because I need the truck running this weekend for a race on sunday. I got a call back after he spoke with someone in charge and they are sending me new studs to replace the ones with corrosion and I am paying for the overnight shipping which is fine. I am also going to be sending him the old studs so they can take a look at them.
They ended up taking care of me and working this out, but I was still told that the corrosion was most likely because of exhaust gasses and lifting the head, which I dont think is the case as this is a mid 600hp engine with an o-ringed head and never any headgasket issues.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with pitting and corrosion, and ARP told me the same thing. They said my head must of lifted and allowed exhaust gas/soot to make contact with the studs. I bought new ones, but still disappointed that they rusted. None of the studs actually broke, but ARP advised not to use them.
 
Could they be sent out for black oxide or some other process to help with the rust?
 
well that answers my question.. I've got a couple that I found have some rust on them when I tore my engine apart. Looks like I've gotta get new ones. :doh:
 
ARP told me that there is some kind of coating available to protect from exhaust gasses but they said it is really expensive.

They will sell you the studs individually if you only have a few that have pitting/corrosion. In the future I will be replacing studs that show any signs of corrosion because I lost my headgasket due to the 2 studs that broke and I dont want to have to go through this again.
 
Just out of curiosity has anyone had any studs that have pitting/corrosion/broke on stock to mild engines where lifting the head would be very unlikely?
 
I wonder if you could coat them with a synthetic high-temp grease when installing to avoid the rust problem? Maybe at the very least it would buy a bit more time before they corroded.
 
i have pitting/corrosion on all of mine too and I have had no problem with head gasket issues.
 
2000's aren't the best choice where coolant or exhaust gas exposure is likely... technically, they shouldn't even be touched with bare hands during installation without a coating of oil, assembly lube, etc.

Nickel-base 625+ are your best bet for the last set of studs you'll ever buy. :Cheer:
 
XLR8R said:
2000's aren't the best choice where coolant or exhaust gas exposure is likely... technically, they shouldn't even be touched with bare hands during installation without a coating of oil, assembly lube, etc.

Nickel-base 625+ are your best bet for the last set of studs you'll ever buy. :Cheer:
Click to expand...

I agree.....but damn I would like to keep both my boys!!......:kick:
 
... yeah, but at least you'd still have a loose Nut behind the wheel! :hehe:
 
I have been having this issue for years now. Head is oringed and gasket is fine. Mainly having issues with the "short " studs on the manifold side. I have had 2 of the break at different times. Its kind of a PITA if you ask me.....

Josh
 
So you guys that are breaking them. How much did you have your studs torqued to? Was it the 125 that ARP suggests or more like many people seem to believe is best?

Mine started to corrode on a couple. But I hit 65 psi (without rings) with a certain setup I had for a few weeks. And never broke any.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top