Anyone else have problems with ARP studs corroding and breaking

How do you all know your breaking them? Surely your not putting a torque wrench on them all the time are you?
 
Mine have always been torqued to 125.

I was racing my truck and one of the studs snapped and exited the motor and left a dent in my hood and while I was pulling back into the pits there was steam coming out from under my hood which was a result from coolant puking out of the stud hole. Then when I was pulling the head to replace the gasket I found another broken stud that was still sitting where it belonged with no signs of coolant in that one.
 
I only did 3 retorques. Then probably at least a year later is when they started breaking on me....
 
when i had the truck apart last winter due to the fire rings failing on me, i didn't have any broken studs, but i had significant corrosion on some of the middle studs. one stud was so bad that i stripped out the hex hole in the top of the stud trying to get it out, i had to double nut the stud to get it out, and luckily it came out. i got ahold of ARP, and they said the same thing about lifting the head, and coolant or exhaust gas that was pitting them. the did repelace the entire set, and i went with a oring setup this time. just my experience with the 2000 series ARP studs.

Wes
 
Ok this might be a stupid question, who here has had stock bolts break randomly? I will be pulling my engine apart and I have had these arp's since they came out years ago. Hopefully I will not be replacing all of them.
 
rockjeep73 said:
Just out of curiosity has anyone had any studs that have pitting/corrosion/broke on stock to mild engines where lifting the head would be very unlikely?
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Yep. Had 1 ARP stud break (one of the ones between the rocker pedestals) on me last year. Probably drove it 10k miles like that, until I discovered it. Never lost a drop of coolant.

My motor is "mild". It is fire ringed (done by Scheid). Block was decked at this time. ARP studs were installed correctly (with oil coating) and torqued to roughly 125 with moly lube. My truck is used primarily for daily driving and towing. BD Super B turbo that has NEVER seen over 40 psi. #10 fuel plate, no extremely hot EGTs.... etc. The truck was built for towing and reliability in mind, so it never sees any real abuse. 100s of miles of sustained 20-25psi boost while towing is the roughest it usually sees.

I talked to Comp461 about it, and ended up buying a new set of studs from him. I also spoke with ARP about this, and was told that I installed them with sweaty hands and was at fault for the failure, they said they would not warranty them, and had no interest in seeing them.

I also had a metals lab at Caterpillar do a failure analysis on it, and they said it was due to pitting/corrosion, caused by coolant/moisture. They also looked at several of the other studs which had pitting and said they were close to failure as well. Let me repeat that I have NEVER lost a drop of coolant in 60,000 miles of driving. That's as long as the ARP studs were in there.

It was frustrating to have to spend almost $400 again on studs, but what are you gonna do....
 
Just broke one today. It was the first one on the exhaust side. Driving 45 MPH and bam! Yep it dented the hood. And it never sees over 40 psi of boost. Sure is funny alot are breaking on the exhaust side. If I am gonna spend my hard earned money on studs they should last alot longer than 2 1/2 years. Did not know sweat from your hands could eat a stud up that fast. And no head gasket issues ever!
 
Wow, this thread might make me think twice about buying from ARP. You would think that $400 for some metal studs would bring you something that would not corrode or break....
 
i use ARP in gasser applications with no issue but for my diesel i went with
A-1 Studs. this is becoming more and more common, looks like ARP's Diesel Studs quality is failing just like our economy.
 
This don't apply to Cummins,but the Powerstroke boys had the same problem with the ARP studs also......I for one.
 
GEARJAMMER1SC said:
Just broke one today. It was the first one on the exhaust side. Driving 45 MPH and bam! Yep it dented the hood. And it never sees over 40 psi of boost. Sure is funny alot are breaking on the exhaust side. If I am gonna spend my hard earned money on studs they should last alot longer than 2 1/2 years. Did not know sweat from your hands could eat a stud up that fast. And no head gasket issues ever!
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That is the same stud that broke in my truck and I have a dent in my hood to go along with it too.
 
Boostediesel said:
i use ARP in gasser applications with no issue but for my diesel i went with
A-1 Studs. this is becoming more and more common, looks like ARP's Diesel Studs quality is failing just like our economy.
Click to expand...

So tell me, are the A-1 studs any different/better? Is the material different? Are they coated with something better than ARP's are?

I am just trying to gather some info so I can decide who to buy from in the future.

How do the A-1's compare in price to ARP?
 
I had 3 arp studs break and they were all on the exhaust manifold side. Greg gave me a number to call and they are going to replace the 3 that are broke,
but what is going to keep the rest of them from breaking?
 
you guys aren't making this very easy.. I need something different soon. Too many of my reg ARP's have too much rust/pitting on them. Seems that 625's don't have these same issues though??
 
Of course not - 625's are a nickel-base alloy... totally different (and far superior) to the steel 2Ks.
 
There is no way I would ever buy a set of $1200 studs, I'd park the truck!

Jim
 
I had 2 A-1's break on the first retorque(at 122ft/lbs). I went to arp's and they held fine for several years but had some corrosion. Went with 625's from there.
 
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