Anyone Running a FASS 150/180 W/ Gauge

StrokerAce

Smooth Is Fast
Joined
May 21, 2006
Messages
174
I have a 150/180 FASS system and I'm using a Dipricol electric fuel pressure gauge. When I start the truck, my pressure goes up to between 70 and 80 psi. and after about 30-45 seconds, it will go to between 65-70 psi but is usually right around 65 psi. Most of the time it will hold about 65 psi for maybe 10-15 minutes and then go to 60 psi where it stays and never moves after going to 60 psi. While it is at 65 psi, it is not returning fuel and when it gowes to 60 psi, it starts to return. I talked to Dan about this and he says it sounds normal however he is not aware of too many guys running the 150/180 and a gauge. For those of you running a gauge, do you see these characteristics or is mine "special".
 
I have the same pump and gauge...mine goes straight to 45 psi where I have the regulator set and never moves.
I gutted the spring on the pump and use an adjustable regulator to control pressure.
 
I think your just specialLOL, mine goes straight to 60 and don't move not even a twinkle in a qmile run, or from cold to warm. Oh and I'm running the performax gauges from Isspro including fuel pressure
 
What you have going on is completely normal. And you dont have to mess with a thing. The fuel return is also the air purge port.
 
I have a 150/180 FASS system and I'm using a Dipricol electric fuel pressure gauge. When I start the truck, my pressure goes up to between 70 and 80 psi. and after about 30-45 seconds, it will go to between 65-70 psi but is usually right around 65 psi. Most of the time it will hold about 65 psi for maybe 10-15 minutes and then go to 60 psi where it stays and never moves after going to 60 psi. While it is at 65 psi, it is not returning fuel and when it gowes to 60 psi, it starts to return. I talked to Dan about this and he says it sounds normal however he is not aware of too many guys running the 150/180 and a gauge. For those of you running a gauge, do you see these characteristics or is mine "special".

you might be special. i've done several 150/180 installs, and everyone i know including myself have had lots of problems with them. i've tried several springs and have actually gone thru 3 pump/motors. i've had to totally rewire it and run my own wiring to a heavy duty starter solenoid and all 10gauge throughout to keep it from blowing fuses.
it also cavitates really bad when trying to use that crappy 3/8 hose they supply for a supply line and especially that "pipe" that they use for a pickup tube. get rid of all that, use a bulkhead fitting and some -10 AN hose for your supply from the tank to the fass and you should be good to go.
on 2 of our trucks we've upgraded to the larger "balls" that seat in manifold to prime and supply the bypass. call dan at fass tell him you want the larger balls for your fass, and the heavy duty spring..

are you running a regulated return system as well, or just the fass ??
 
I have the same pump and gauge...mine goes straight to 45 psi where I have the regulator set and never moves.
I gutted the spring on the pump and use an adjustable regulator to control pressure.

mine is set at 62psi and it goes straight there and stays there all the time. unless i hit WOT then it will drop just under 60psi until i let off..

i am also running a regulated return, but if you have the heavier spring from FASS for the bypass you can fine tune the system to balance and have them both work correctly..

remember by removing the spring in the fass and relying on the regulated return to set fuel pressure you have basically defeated the purpose of even having a FASS to begin with. which is to separate air from the fuel as well as water and filter. you have essentially just wasted your money and bought a 700 dollar HPFP.. could have just bought a fuel pump if you wanted to go that route..
put the spring back in so that the fass is bypassing to the tank like it was designed to, (which is why say to get the stiffer spring, otherwise you'll only get 30-40psi) and then adjust your aftermarket regulator till it also starts flowing fuel back to the tank. it might take a few minutes to get it balanced so that both systems are returning/bypassing fuel to the tank, but it's definitely doable and worth it.

if you don't hear the fass bypassing fuel when you stick your ear to the filler neck, then you are not getting the air separation from it, and if you have your regulator cranked up too high and you hear the flow of fuel stop going thru it back to the tank, then you now have a dead-headed fuel system again, just like stock. and isn't that the whole reason we get the regulated return systems to begin with ?
 
mine is set at 62psi and it goes straight there and stays there all the time. unless i hit WOT then it will drop just under 60psi until i let off..

i am also running a regulated return, but if you have the heavier spring from FASS for the bypass you can fine tune the system to balance and have them both work correctly..

remember by removing the spring in the fass and relying on the regulated return to set fuel pressure you have basically defeated the purpose of even having a FASS to begin with. which is to separate air from the fuel as well as water and filter. you have essentially just wasted your money and bought a 700 dollar HPFP.. could have just bought a fuel pump if you wanted to go that route..
put the spring back in so that the fass is bypassing to the tank like it was designed to, (which is why say to get the stiffer spring, otherwise you'll only get 30-40psi) and then adjust your aftermarket regulator till it also starts flowing fuel back to the tank. it might take a few minutes to get it balanced so that both systems are returning/bypassing fuel to the tank, but it's definitely doable and worth it.

if you don't hear the fass bypassing fuel when you stick your ear to the filler neck, then you are not getting the air separation from it, and if you have your regulator cranked up too high and you hear the flow of fuel stop going thru it back to the tank, then you now have a dead-headed fuel system again, just like stock. and isn't that the whole reason we get the regulated return systems to begin with ?

And if he got the kit for free. And all future kits were developed off of his kit.
 
I talked to Dan before doing it....he said himself it would be fine.
 
are you running a regulated return system as well, or just the fass ??

Right now I am just running the FASS but I have an RR system sitting in the garage that I haven't found time to put on yet. My pump came with the 40 or 45 psi spring (can't remember which one) and Dan sent me the 60 psi spring and fitting. I did not get a new ball, so are you saying that there is a bigger ball? That may solve my problem if there is because that seems to be what is happening. The ball seems to get a little stuck in the opening and it doesn't start returning till it builds pressure and pops that ball out or it becomes unstuck itself.
 
you want the ball stuck, the problem with the ball is seating in the hole right or like I had the ball sucking through the hole and losing pressure, hence the bigger ball
 
So jst so I can get educated on this, why does my FASS not return fuel and it takes it soo long to get to 60 psi? I drove the truck today for about a total of 30 min. and it never went to 60 psi. It sounds like I am not getting the full benefit of the FASS unless it is returning fuel which is when it seperates te air right?
 
did you want 60psi or 3 gallons a minute? Think about it. It will drain your tank in less than 10 minutes. Only a Veyron runs out of fuel in 12 minutes.
 
I talked to Dan before doing it....he said himself it would be fine.

trust me i've been in constant contact with dan, and although he swears there is no need to upgrade from the pickup design they use, all three trucks i've seen with a fass, have had cavitation issues when using the pickup supplied. ever since i switched to -10 (which may be overkill for most other guys) i've had NO cavitation issues..

my buddy's truck is actually collapsing the pickup hose supplied with the unit, you can feel it go oval as the pump tries to draw the fuel faster than the pickup can supply it. dan says the supplied kit will be sufficient for 600HP, but i don't see it, i was limited to about 508 with his design, and since changing it out i've gone well past with no cavitation issues.
 
Right now I am just running the FASS but I have an RR system sitting in the garage that I haven't found time to put on yet. My pump came with the 40 or 45 psi spring (can't remember which one) and Dan sent me the 60 psi spring and fitting. I did not get a new ball, so are you saying that there is a bigger ball? That may solve my problem if there is because that seems to be what is happening. The ball seems to get a little stuck in the opening and it doesn't start returning till it builds pressure and pops that ball out or it becomes unstuck itself.

yup... that ball will eventually work it's way all the way thru the seat and fall down into the manifold. if you unplug that brass plug w/ 3/8" allen wrench on the driver side of the manifold and can feel the ball in there then you need the larger set.
they are also different materials now. the old setup uses same size balls.
now the new ones are both bigger. the front ball that will go behind the new spring dan sent you will be a 5/8" ball, and the new one for the main block on top will be a 3/4" ball.
 
So jst so I can get educated on this, why does my FASS not return fuel and it takes it soo long to get to 60 psi? I drove the truck today for about a total of 30 min. and it never went to 60 psi. It sounds like I am not getting the full benefit of the FASS unless it is returning fuel which is when it seperates te air right?

because you either dont have the stiffer spring, or you don't have the larger balls or both.

the ball getting sucked thru the seat will not allow it to prime or make full pressure, call dan and tell him to send you those balls he won't charge you for them.
 
did you want 60psi or 3 gallons a minute? Think about it. It will drain your tank in less than 10 minutes. Only a Veyron runs out of fuel in 12 minutes.

it can only drain the tank as fast as the motor can burn the fuel. all of the extra fuel being returned will end up back in the tank, so it wont drain it.
of course, there is a lot of fuel that is taking an unnecessary trip to the motor and back or to the fass and back, but at least it will be air and water free fuel when it gets where it needs to go.
 
Back
Top