Are the stock valves good for 150lb springs

smokin06

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i have 150lb valve springs and titanium keepers and stuff from EEP, anyways after one pull and some street time my front two valves came apart and went thru the engine. My question to you is are the stock valves strong enough to handle the 150lb valve springs or do i need some better valves and if i do where to get the better valves. I am also having trouble breaking tappets. My build is a 97 12v with 64/71/14 over s480 with DPE 13mm pump with quick rate cam set right know at 600cc's Fletcher cam, mahle 155 pistons with 60 thousandths off the top and 40 thousandths valve reliefs, westons 5x18 worked over injectors. Any help would be appreciated and if anybody has any ideas on my setup i would appreciate the help. I also have a ED 50MM wastegate on the twins. Thanks for the help.
 
Have you talked to fletcher about springs? how many rpm u running?
 
no i ahvent talked to fletcher, my motor will turn 6,000 easy dont run it there though come off about 5,500. Ok 2tone12v what do you recommend i do i am having a new head ported and polished because it runied my old head so i am wanting to put something good in there i am open to opinions thanks allot what about the tappetts.
 
Well I know there are some very good valves that some use right out of summit that are much stronger. I want to save you can get them for $90-$100 range. Or there are always the inconel valves. Very pricey there though. Best bet would be to call someone at a shop that has much experience with this such as Haisleys. Height of the valve and all that good stuff needs to be correct. 877-948-3164 is Haisleys number. They will have an answer for you for I'm sure.
 
thanks allot, what about the tappets have you had trouble breakin them with heavy valve springs.
 
To my knowledge you should have no problem with them. I have heard of issues before but it was with 1200hp engines. That you may want to ask them as well. But I think they are good.
 
I'd say no they won't last long. I have #110 springs which I think helped to tulip one of my valves. It was a stock intake valve which are very cheap lower quality valves because they don't see as much heat.

My suggestion would be to replace all the intake valves with exhaust valves. Stock Cummins exhaust valves are Inconel. You'd be looking at around $400 to $500 for 12 Inconel exhaust valves plus the machine work on the head to accept them. Talk to Drew at EEP, he'll tell you all about it.
 
I think he is talking about a 12V. It seems that some of the answers might be pertaining to 24V
 
No way I would run that much pressure! I have seen what can happen with too much pressure.......

Now if you go with something custom it would be a different game. Give Ferrea a call as they can set you up with some really nice valves but its gonna cost you.

Doug
 
For a 12v I thought the 60lb springs put the seat @ 145#,

The Hamilton 12v drop in are 180# at the seat
 
i am not sure what i have then its the EEP kit i was sure they said 150# springs i took 60's out and these werre allot stiffer. whats you guys suggestions then like i said i was also having tappet troubles breaking off.
 
i am not sure what i have then its the EEP kit i was sure they said 150# springs i took 60's out and these werre allot stiffer. whats you guys suggestions then like i said i was also having tappet troubles breaking off.

If you had 60's and there was a noticeable difference. I would get new valves. Call Haisleys. They will have all the answers for you for sure. Height of the spring the same? They can tell you where to get the valves that are needed and the correct install heights and things if there is a change in anything.
 
No way I would run that much pressure! I have seen what can happen with too much pressure.......

Now if you go with something custom it would be a different game. Give Ferrea a call as they can set you up with some really nice valves but its gonna cost you.

Doug

Tens of thousands of 60# springs have been sold that run 147-155# at the seat. 150# is no problem at all. Our drop in springs for the 12valve have 165-170# on the seat(depending on installed height) and are good to 6,000 rpm no problem. We tested them on a 12 valve that turns 5k and has almost 300,000 miles and it uses stock valves. They have been running this way for over a year and almost 30,000 miles. They are also on shot shot trucks that see almost 100,000 miles per year.

Seat pressure is not the most important factor as far as springs are concerned, nose pressure is. This is dependant on the amount of lift that your cam has, nothing else. If you run big grinds, a lot of boost and a lot of rpms, you have to run more spring pressure, no way around it. As far as tappets. 12v's have it easy even with 165# 24v's have 110#X2 or 220#, and they do just fine with millions of miles combined usage.

Zach

Zach
 
Tens of thousands of 60# springs have been sold that run 147-155# at the seat. 150# is no problem at all. Our drop in springs for the 12valve have 165-170# on the seat(depending on installed height) and are good to 6,000 rpm no problem. We tested them on a 12 valve that turns 5k and has almost 300,000 miles and it uses stock valves. They have been running this way for over a year and almost 30,000 miles. They are also on shot shot trucks that see almost 100,000 miles per year.

Seat pressure is not the most important factor as far as springs are concerned, nose pressure is. This is dependant on the amount of lift that your cam has, nothing else. If you run big grinds, a lot of boost and a lot of rpms, you have to run more spring pressure, no way around it. As far as tappets. 12v's have it easy even with 165# 24v's have 110#X2 or 220#, and they do just fine with millions of miles combined usage.

Zach

Zach

Theres your answer. So basically your 150# springs are 60# springs. Or 60# springs need to be called 150# springs. Whatever. They are the same with hardly anymore pressure than what you had. So in a way you wasted your money.:doh: Which would explain the noticeable difference. Which is why I change my valve springs every year.:rockwoot:
 
how much pressure do the 60lbs have over the nose?

I calculated out mine I will have around 385lbs on the exhaust and 370 on the intake over the nose, Is that OK?
 
That might be an issue, considering the intake valves are larger than the exhaust valves.

Yep, I noticed that also.
Some are going to Int.'s all the way across, it's a good idea in a way buit I choose not to get that area any thinner than it already is, I'm cracking these heads like crazy with factory valve sizes. Ryan
 
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