Arp head stud do's and dont's...

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Taking one of those disks to my head (cast iron) created a premature leak after some monkey did my hg. I decided to do it myself and get the head machined. No problems. Did studs eventually and had head machined. No problems. Increased timing and blew the gasket. Redid gasket, had head machined, and I took a sanding block with 80 grit and blocked out the block. Hit it a second time with 180. No problemos now. There is no substitue for true surfaces when it comes to head gaskets. Any thing you do that produces a metallic look means you are removing material.
 
so since im already done with what i did, would you suggest some blocking with sandpaper just to be on the safe side?? i could spray a guide coat of black paint to make sure shes true when i was done
 
duck_04 said:
nothing like home made precision maching tools...
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beat the chit out of cleaning it with a "non abrasive" roloc disk of some sort. To reduce my ignorance what would you have done to clean the block surface?
 
just want piece of mind that its at least close to being true. the machinists straightedge might be pretty difficult to come by in short time, and bringing my cabless chassis to the machine shop isnt an option, whats the best way for some piece of mind that it should be close?
 
05STROKER said:
so since im already done with what i did, would you suggest some blocking with sandpaper just to be on the safe side?? i could spray a guide coat of black paint to make sure shes true when i was done
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It's what I had at the time and all I could think of to get a relatively straight surface that was CLEAN. I am curious as to what the proper way of doing it is though. Waiting on Duck04. A machinists straight edge wont fix or slow down the imperfections. I put oil in each cylinder prior to sanding to catch as much debris as posibble. Cranked motor over by hand and cleaned what the rings pushed up. It really wasn't as hillbilly as it came off.
 
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mines all cleaned up now ready to rock and roll, just not sure how far off the trueness is, if it is at all... i never used anything any more aggressive than the "cookie" disk which i felt was somewhat agressive but not harsh enough to remove a harmful amount of material, anyways i can explain my story 1000 times over, just need some responses on what i could do to try and make sure its as trued up as possible with a piece of mind before i pop my heads on! block sanding technique? not too excited about having to try and get sand from the sandpaper out of my cylinders! but im open to some reasonable opinions on what to do
 
Just saw your response right after i just posted again, disreguard my last post
 
05STROKER said:
just want piece of mind that its at least close to being true. the machinists straightedge might be pretty difficult to come by in short time, and bringing my cabless chassis to the machine shop isnt an option, whats the best way for some piece of mind that it should be close?
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Machinist Straight Edges - SummitRacing.com



I think one of these would work just fine. I dont see why not unless someone with more experience can say other wise :bow:.
 
I suck all ports dry with a small wet vac, cover both lifter pockets with a lint free towel or rag, I use a surface planer with a fine grit paper to lightly deck the surface. Then check the surface with machinist straight edge. Dowels, studs, gaskets, heads, pushrods, rocker boxes and rocker plates, coat the crap out of the washers and stud threads with ARP lube. 3 stage torque down, 250lbs on a stock to "mildly stock" truck. 275 if it's built up. Never had one come back unless it was for more upgrades.
 
we clean them all the time with the purple roloc cookies. As long as you used them properly and did not apply a lot of pressure you should be fine. We always check with a straight edge before and afterward and have not had one be out of spec if they were good to begin with. On high power builds we like to have the block decked at the machine shop along with the heads.
 
What i did to my block was found a really strait piece of metal wrapped it with sandpaper and ran that across the block. Old trick my dad used on tractors and such, and its good enough to hold 45 psi... So far.


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Looks like I'm not the only guy using sand paper! A machinist straight edge with a feeler guage is what my machinist does to determine how true a surface is although it isn't 100% accurate.
 
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Really??????

coat the crap out of the washers and stud threads with ARP lube. 3 stage torque down, 250lbs on a stock to "mildly stock" truck. 275 if it's built up. Never had one come back unless it was for more upgrades.[/QUOTE]

If that is what you really do you may want to contact ARP and ask what you are doing to their studs with that procedure. We have installed MANY sets of 6.0 studs. (over 100) Either your torque wrench reads high or the studs you are getting are way stronger than the studs ARP sends us. We use a 600lb., highly accurate torque wrench and you ARE NOT going to see 275ft. lb. without stretching past fatigue point or snapping these studs.
Try this. Measure length of a new stud out of the box, do your procedure and measure again.:badidea:
 
matty169 said:
If that is what you really do you may want to contact ARP and ask what you are doing to their studs with that procedure. We have installed MANY sets of 6.0 studs. (over 100) Either your torque wrench reads high or the studs you are getting are way stronger than the studs ARP sends us. We use a 600lb., highly accurate torque wrench and you ARE NOT going to see 275ft. lb. without stretching past fatigue point or snapping these studs.
Try this. Measure length of a new stud out of the box, do your procedure and measure again.:badidea:
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Why are you trying to clean up this thread with the voice of reason?
 
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