ARP Head Studs spacers??

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zrultima

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Jun 26, 2011
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I currently have a 1997 12v in which I will be doing twins on now my question is I had purchase some Arp studs the 500 dollar ones and was told the rockers need machining and what not to fit the head studs. Then I came across this on ebay I was wondering if anyone has tried it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Valve-Cummins-Diesel-ARP-Haisley-Head-Studs-Clearance-Spacers-/121091007466?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c319623ea&vxp=mtr#ht_306wt_902

I am hoping to get my head studs put in very soon as soon as i do the valve springs but I would like to know before I purchase these if they would be a good idea?>
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I would think those would probably leak oil. I've seen a couple people grind the ribs off the underside of the valve covers over where the studs are and get enough clearance but I've always just machined the pedestals on a Bridgeport. Better in my opinion knowing the valve covers aren't going to be pouring oil out because of using spacers.


I like to go fast
 
You have to grind the ribs and also machine the pedestals usually. Some people run the A1 H11's and if you grind your ribs, you can get them on. If you don't bottom tap, you'll have to grind the top of the stud though.
 
Well I guess too much trouble if it takes that much. How much is the usual cost to have the rockers machined I have never had any machine work done so I dont want to get screwed
 
zrultima said:
Well I guess too much trouble if it takes that much. How much is the usual cost to have the rockers machined I have never had any machine work done so I dont want to get screwed
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If you take them off and take them in, they'll probably charge you an hour of time.
 
Does anyone have the procedure on how to change the valve springs on the 12v im terrible with just explanation since I dont know the technical terms so pictures help. Im tired of being screwed by these shops down here so I am looking to do it myself
 
If you take the head off, then you just use a compressor tool, grab the keepers, swap everything.
If you leave the head on, you have to get that cylinder to TDC first do the valve doesnt fall.

The one's most people like and use are these:
http://www.torkteknology.com/categories/CUMMINS/-TOOLS/%2A-Valve-Spring-Compressors/

Buy the one that matches your springs. Most will work with the generic one, but then Haisley and Hamilton springs are a little different.
 
Yes I already have the Valve spring compressor for the Hamilton Springs which are the ones I have. But I heard I have to do something so keepers wont fall in and I wont drop a valve
 
zrultima said:
Yes I already have the Valve spring compressor for the Hamilton Springs which are the ones I have. But I heard I have to do something so keepers wont fall in and I wont drop a valve
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Turning the motor over backwards you can watch the intake valve shut and as soon as the exhaust valve starts to move that cylinder is on TDC along with it's paired cylinder ( 1+6, 2+5, and 3+4). The piston will then hold the valves from falling into the cylinder. You just have to set one of the cylinders in each pair to TDC and you can change the springs on both cylinders in that pair. I usually will set #1 on TDC then change springs on 1 and 6 then set #2 on TDC and change springs on 2 and 5 and then set 3 on TDC and change springs for cylinders 3 and 4. The tools usually come with a good description on the procedure as well. You could also turn the motor over forward if it's easier for you and watch for the exhaust valve to shut and the intake valve just start to open. It's just easier to turn it over backwards using the alternator. When you have it set correctly the rockers should be loose and not trying to open the valves on the paired cylinder as well.

As far as the keepers go, once you pull the pedestals off to bolt the tool to the head pack some paper towels or rags around the pushrod holes so the keepers won't fall down into them. For extra insurance do it to all the cylinders regardless of what one your working on. Those little keepers can fly pretty easy and they're not so easy to find sometimes. Good luck, hope this helps.


I like to go fast
 
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Stubz, I thank you for the above easy to follow explanation! hope to do my V springs soon.
 
I've run arps where I tapped the block and the valve covers fit no problem. Another set I had to remove a little from the valve cover. Haven't had to machine the pedestals yet.
 
Stubz you made it sound so easy I wish I could see it to make sure that everythings right. I hope to tackle this weekend if it dont rain
 
Once you get into it, you'll realize that it is that easy really. The biggest pain part is getting the keepers back in on cylinders 5 and 6 usually. Good luck with the install.


****AY Racing
 
So just out of curiosity I called outlaw diesel here in Miami they quoted me $600 for the head studs and the valve spring install. Man prices like that make me want to do it myself or at least attempt
 
zrultima said:
So just out of curiosity I called outlaw diesel here in Miami they quoted me $600 for the head studs and the valve spring install. Man prices like that make me want to do it myself or at least attempt
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This is why we all work on our own stuff. And it can be a really quick job, or you can run into stuff that'll make it suck. 90% of the time it's easy.
 
man I have the tools I have everything to make it as simple as possible besides the air compressor just scared of 5 and 6
 
Just hope you dont break a head bolt taking them out. Then your little project get's a lot more fun.
 
Cornelius man stop scaring me on doing it I worried about the valves falling in now i have to worry about head bolts lol I still have to get the rocker machine
 
zrultima said:
Cornelius man stop scaring me on doing it I worried about the valves falling in now i have to worry about head bolts lol I still have to get the rocker machine
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ha ha sorry. You'll be fine, especially with a rust free truck.
And if you get every cylinder you're working on to TDC, you'll be just fine. Remember that the piston clearance is almost nothing, so even if you're not at complete TDC, you wont have the valve fall out. Then you can bar the engine until you see the valve peak.
 
Cornelius Imma blame you if anthing goes wrong lol I guess I will start saturday morning rotating the motor. and looking at the valves so I can find out what TDC is and go from there
 
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