ARP Head Studs spacers??

zrultima said:
Cornelius Imma blame you if anthing goes wrong lol I guess I will start saturday morning rotating the motor. and looking at the valves so I can find out what TDC is and go from there
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You'll know if your at TDC once you start cranking the nut down on the tool because you'll be able to watch the stems of the valves go down a bit then stop while the spring and retainer will keep going down until you can pop the keepers out. Sometimes a light tap is required to get the retainer to break free of the keepers once they're pre loaded. You'll see what I mean once you get into it.
I also forgot to mention that when you go to put the keepers back in put a small dob of grease on the inside to help them stick to the valve stem where they go, it will help you get them seated correctly. And I always give each valve a few taps with a non marring hammer to make sure everything is seated good before putting the pedestals and rockers back on.
Don't get discouraged, these are some of the easiest engines I have ever worked on.
 
stubz616 said:
You'll know if your at TDC once you start cranking the nut down on the tool because you'll be able to watch the stems of the valves go down a bit then stop while the spring and retainer will keep going down until you can pop the keepers out. Sometimes a light tap is required to get the retainer to break free of the keepers once they're pre loaded. You'll see what I mean once you get into it.
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That's a good point too.




And OP, you can blame anything you'd like on me if it makes you feel better :-D
 
If your that concerned about a valves dropping into the cylinder just pull the injectors to verify your at TDC on that cylinder with a small screwdriver or something similar.

Easy money don't worry.
 
I thought the whole point off machining the rocker pedestal was because the stud is actually shorter so it doesn't hit the valve cover. And you machine the pedestal to get more threads for the nut to catch
 
Studs are plenty long enough with out machining. I bottom tap blocks and grind the valve covers. I only have a lathe, not a mill here to it's easier


Sent from my flashscan v2
 
nickg9785 said:
I thought the whole point off machining the rocker pedestal was because the stud is actually shorter so it doesn't hit the valve cover. And you machine the pedestal to get more threads for the nut to catch
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I believe that SAE is to have half of the nut's depth worth of threads showing on the stud, so to make that with the washer on (which is essential for torquing accurately), and not having the nut hit the valve cover, you mill them.
 
The stud hitting the valve cover is the only problem I see, I don't get machining the rockers for any reaosn other than more threads for the nut. I bottom tap now so the stud sinks further and you don't have to do anything. Last set had exactly one nut's worth of threads showing and they're holding 100psi/boost and what I'm sure is too much drive pressure.
 
I went onto youtube everyone is doing with a compressor **** dont want to do that so I took off cylinder one valve cover and rotated the alternator counterclockwise how can i tell when i am at tdc laymen term please
 
When you see one rocker rise and one starts to fall on the same cylinder that's TDC


Sent from my flashscan v2
 
Well will it works like this I spin the alternator counterclockwise i see the first valve spring come all the way and then stays at the top i turn it a bit more and nothing happens then after i start turning it again the other one begins to rise
 
You'll see one of the valves rise and it will reach the top then almost immediately the other will start to move. Stop right there and swap springs
 
The way your spinning it, if I'm thinking correctly, you should see the intake valve ( front valve on every cylinder) go all the way down then when it comes all the way back up right after it reaches it's full valve closed position the exhaust valve should start to move almost instantly. That cylinder should be on TDC (on the exhaust stroke but that doesn't matter for switching valve springs.)
 
Your correct guys the exhaust valve does not move right after my intake but i get the point so once there at this position I can change both valve springs the ones on cylinder 1 and the other 2 on cylinder 6. Looks like a tight fit on 6
 
Thank you stubs any advice taking on of the pedestal and headbolt for cylinder 5 and 6?? I heard to take off the wiper arm and plastic cover which i did but i dont see how it would help any advice would be greatly appreciated
 
zrultima said:
Thank you stubs any advice taking on of the pedestal and headbolt for cylinder 5 and 6?? I heard to take off the wiper arm and plastic cover which i did but i dont see how it would help any advice would be greatly appreciated
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It's not a straight shot but you can get the bolt/stud out of the knockouts in the cowl.
 
Would you be able to show me please i dont see how I see how u may be able to do #5 but not 6
 
I feel soo stupid i just saw that 2nd plug under cylinder 6 i didnt see it before i am sooo sorry thanku howling and biggy. Do i have to rotate the motor again to do number 6 or is that one at TDC just like number 1?
 
1,6 are companion cylinders and should both be at tdc simultaneously
 
Thanks guys I got it now my last question and I am sorry to bug u how can you verify the keepers are placed correctly they look even with each on cylinder 1 and 6 but when I start the truck I dont want to hear that I blew the motor cause I lost a keeper... These are the Hamilton springs and retainers
 
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