ARPs and Stock HGs

Heavyhaller

New member
Joined
May 31, 2009
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21
How much can the stock HG take with ARP studs. I had my HG blow with ARP studs back in Sept with 25k mi on them(59k on trk). The dealer in spokan said that it looked like the dealer in Calif didn't TQ them down correctly because they were loose. They bloow on both banks ( L & R). I run Innovative tunes (Extream Street, Agressive street(I run this tune 90% of the time) and Agg tow/break. I pull a 5er with a GCVW of 28k (my trk is rated for 26k) and drive it very conservativly(keep EGTs below 1200deg) when pulling with my tow tune. Anyway the blown HG made me conserned and Eric said that their is no way that tune would blow the HG with ARPs. How much is safe with ARPs and stock HG?:thankyou2::bang
 
The original installer probably TQ'd them to Ford TTY bolt specs or something instead of ARP's TQ spec..
That combo will hold just about anything you wanna throw at it...as long as the heads and block are flat and the install is done correctly.
 
This happens more often than people think, it could be incorrectly installed studs, but the most important thing is to make sure the heads are COMPLETELY flat! Even new OEM heads need to be machined to ensure flatness.
 
I'd say first mistake was having a dealer do it instead of a diesel perf. shop. I know of a great shop in Reding, CA that can do it right for ya.
 
This happens more often than people think, it could be incorrectly installed studs, but the most important thing is to make sure the heads are COMPLETELY flat! Even new OEM heads need to be machined to ensure flatness.
The tech at the Ford dealer that told me that he thought that the ARPs were not TQ properly the first time was a "gear head" and had a 6.0 with ARPs. He said the head and deck was flat but the studs were very loose ( some finger loose). He seemed to know what he was doing. I found out that the first tech that origanaly installed my studs had never installed them before and had to borrow a TQ wrench that could TQ them down from the rear-end tech. I don't think he TQ them in the proper sequence or didn't do it in 3 steps like ARP instructions say to do.:thankyou2:
 
I'd say first mistake was having a dealer do it instead of a diesel perf. shop. I know of a great shop in Reding, CA that can do it right for ya.
I know what your saying. If it happens again I will have an independent shop do it (with H-11) but its really hard to argue with a $100 bill and the first time the studs were installed, all I had to do was buy the studs. The first time I called a shop in Corona, Cal and they wanted $4000 to do the job. I went to the dealer, they said they would install the studs if I bought them so I ordered the ARPs from Eric, next day delivery. My trk is the only vehical I have and had to rent a car for a week.:Cheer:
 
I'd say first mistake was having a dealer do it instead of a diesel perf. shop. I know of a great shop in Reding, CA that can do it right for ya.

No it wasn't. Dealer did mine and many others and all is fine. Finding the right dealer is key.
 
No it wasn't. Dealer did mine and many others and all is fine. Finding the right dealer is key.

Exactly, the right dealer is key. They're not all idiots. just some. I've met quite a few VERY good 6.0 techs right on these forums who all work at Ford dealerships.
 
when you buy the ARP stud kit does it come with thier torque specs and sequence?
Yes and their special anti-seze. They even tell you not to use oil on the threads or you could blow a HG. TQ them down in 3 steps with the final TQ being 240ftlbs or is it 245ftlbs. I'm old and can't remember.:Cheer:
 
Yes and their special anti-seze. They even tell you not to use oil on the threads or you could blow a HG. TQ them down in 3 steps with the final TQ being 240ftlbs or is it 245ftlbs. I'm old and can't remember.:Cheer:

ok thats cool cause i have never done studs before, i have done a ton of headgaskets on the 6.0l and in fact doin one right now. but never installed studs.
 
245 ft. LBS


Head_studs_245.jpg
 
Yes and their special anti-seze. They even tell you not to use oil on the threads or you could blow a HG. TQ them down in 3 steps with the final TQ being 240ftlbs or is it 245ftlbs. I'm old and can't remember.:Cheer:

It's not an anti-seize, its a lubricant to ensure that the studs get torqued into the block properly. They say not to use regular oil because it has more "friction" than their special lube and could throw an error into your torque readings. They will send you extra lube for nothing too if you ask.

The directions that come with the studs are pretty good actually, once you have the box in hand it should be pretty straight forward.
 
No it wasn't. Dealer did mine and many others and all is fine. Finding the right dealer is key.

Exactly, the right dealer is key. They're not all idiots. just some. I've met quite a few VERY good 6.0 techs right on these forums who all work at Ford dealerships.

I was not meaning to imply that all the dealer tech's are idiot's. Sorry to those offended. The ones that do know their stuff are few and far between when you consider how many of them there are though, they can be hard to find.
 
ok so i've heard its possible to do studs in the truck and then i've heard its not possible without pullin the cab.. for the ones that done it before, is it really that bad?? i just helped a buddy put some in his 99 and it really wasn't that bad
 
his 7.3 truck and the 6.0 are completely different animals. It is possible with cab on, I have read of many people doing it that way.
 
There was one guy who did it without even removing the heads. He did them one at a time, took a bolt out, put a stud in.
 
I actually know of a number of guys who have done it that way. It's a real PITA to torque them with cab on.
The bad thing about one bolt at a time is that you never do know what your head gasket looks like. I have heard of many that thought theirs was fine when they did studs and found it to be comprimised.
My truck only puked once or twice, and my HG's were pretty bad.
 
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