Banshee HE351VE Controller, HE351VE/HE341VE Hybrid Turbo!

S

steed

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Apr 18, 2012
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81
Alright guys I was asked to post the turbo and controller I built for my 4BT Tacoma on here so here it goes.

Turbo's I used
Brand New HE341VE, 54/78mm compressor, 60/70 turbine
DDP Vulcan 1 HE351VE, 62/86mm compressor, 62/70 turbine

I used the HE341VE, Compressor wheel, Housing Defuser and installed it on the HE351VE.

This gave me a 54/78mm compressor, on a DDP 62/70 turbine

I did this because the HE341VE oil passages and water passages wouldn't work for my setup. As well as the actuator on the HE341VE is a 24 volt system.

I control the turbo with my Banshee stand alone controller that runs off a boost pressure sensor, toggle switch and a potentiometer
 
The HE341VE is ment to be setup with a high mount exhaust outlet, with the limited room in my Tacoma this wouldn't be possible.

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This actuator is different then the HE351VE, its 24V runs CAN however I haven't even attempted to decode it.

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HE341VE turbo Wheel

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HE341VE Defuser

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HE351VE Left, HE341VE right

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im not sure what its called and I didn't take a picture of it, but I swapped the clip on the back side of the defuser off the HE351VE and put it on the HE341VE defuser, I also had to rotate the clip 90*

Have to remove the compressor housing alignment pin on the HE351VE. The HE341VE houses doesn't have a hole for the pin.

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Getting ready to put the new housing on

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I ended up grinding down the charge pipe flange

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I took the HE351VE wheel and compressor and installed it on the donor HE341VE so it wont get damaged.

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Banshee Controller

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Controller is industrial grade IP67 rated, internal surge protection up to 65V, reverse polarity protection and water resistant up to 1 meter.

sensor and potentiometer are industrial grade made by Honey Well

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AsTroSS said:
Nice to see the final product.

Is yours in eBay : http://www.ebay.com/itm/HE351VE-Stand-Alone-Controller-w-exhaust-break-/221313021176?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338748b4f8&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

Yup my thread on the controller and turbo is also up on 4BTswaps. Just so everyone knows, I'm not a business I'm an Electronic Warfare Sergeant in the Army. I don't mean for this thread to be taken as a advertisement or anything.

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?33409-First-Ever-Hybrid-HE341VE-HE351VE!

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?29441-Universal-HE351VE-Controller/page3
 
I need the controller, unfortunaltey I have to finish my my tractor repair before I can start thinking again about my truck modifications
 
Just let me know, I have a couple I can put together!

The actuator on the turbo doesn’t move in a liner motion, it jumps from one position to another.

Positions it jumps to are, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24, 25CM^2 these positions are best guess based on having the turbo fully closed/open and the coding and feedback positions.

The way it works is 3CM is the exhaust break, 4-7 will surge on a bigger motor most likely… Once a desired PSI is reached it moves to the next position. So if you have it programmed to idle at 9CM once you take off and make 21PSI it will open to 12CM. It will hold there until 28PSI and open to 15 PSI and so on.

My controllers have no end user programmability, (working on that) I would need to program it before I send it out. All I need to know is what PSI to position you want.

Now there’s two modes, automatic and manual. Automatic uses the sensor to read PSI and move the vanes. Manual is selected via a toggle switch and controlled with a knob. This will allow you to fully open and close the vane which cleans the vane and enables your exhaust break when it’s fully closed.

pretty simple
 
Charger said:
is there a version of the he341ve that is 12volt?
Click to expand...

Yup the one I was looking at was $3200 from cummins another $1000 core and cummins never sold one in the US so they have to import it which has another fee.... I called around 100 big diesel salvage yards and part stores and no one has it.... all the us he341ve's are either the ford f650 cummins model which had a big intake horn, or the one I took apart. That's why I made the hybrid, I traded one of my controllers for the turbo and the turbo was brand new never installed. So I think I made out pretty good.
 
Leiffi said:
doesnt work from the boost only, it will surge at low rpm and overspeed at high rpm, there will also be problems with exhaust backpressure. Try this http://dmn.kuulalaakeri.org/vnt-lda/
Click to expand...

I believe the surge is because of the design of the sliding wall vane. Anything smaller then 9cm is part of the exhaust break function. I can hold 9cm all day awith no issues. If I go 7 or 6cm its a hit or miss if it surges. It basically kills boost and feels like the truck slammed on the breaks.

The link is pretty cool, alot of people talked about trying to use andreno boards. His uses pwm to control vnt actuators, which wouldnt work on a holset ve turbo. You would need to build a can bridge and figure out the coding. Using more then one imput also creates its own issues. Boost sensor is all you really need.
 
In your ebay for sale ad, you wrote exhaust break. Spelling errors like that might chase away potential buyers.

Otherwise, cool stuff you're working on and thanks for posting information.



steed said:
Yup my thread on the controller and turbo is also up on 4BTswaps. Just so everyone knows, I'm not a business I'm an Electronic Warfare Sergeant in the Army. I don't mean for this thread to be taken as a advertisement or anything.

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?33409-First-Ever-Hybrid-HE341VE-HE351VE!

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?29441-Universal-HE351VE-Controller/page3
Click to expand...
 
steed said:
I believe the surge is because of the design of the sliding wall vane. Anything smaller then 9cm is part of the exhaust break function. I can hold 9cm all day awith no issues. If I go 7 or 6cm its a hit or miss if it surges. It basically kills boost and feels like the truck slammed on the breaks.

The link is pretty cool, alot of people talked about trying to use andreno boards. His uses pwm to control vnt actuators, which wouldnt work on a holset ve turbo. You would need to build a can bridge and figure out the coding. Using more then one imput also creates its own issues. Boost sensor is all you really need.
Click to expand...

Surge is because engine cant take the air turbo is trying to push when wall is too closed, at higher rpm turbo might not be able to make the wanted boost because engine breathes so well, your controller tries to close the wall to get higher boost which creates very bad backpressure problems because exhaust side is probably maxed out even if the wall is completely open. You really need also rpm based control. Now it's the same if you used basic wastegate type boost control. There are Holsets with wastegate type clocks that are controlled with PWM controlled valves, I think Arduino would work fine with those. If you read some posts from that link they are talking something about CAN connections also.
 
Leiffi said:
Surge is because engine cant take the air turbo is trying to push when wall is too closed, at higher rpm turbo might not be able to make the wanted boost because engine breathes so well, your controller tries to close the wall to get higher boost which creates very bad backpressure problems because exhaust side is probably maxed out even if the wall is completely open. You really need also rpm based control. Now it's the same if you used basic wastegate type boost control. There are Holsets with wastegate type clocks that are controlled with PWM controlled valves, I think Arduino would work fine with those. If you read some posts from that link they are talking something about CAN connections also.
Click to expand...


The surge I’m taking about is different then the boost fluctuating up and down. It’s more of an exhaust pressure surge then a boost surge, my boost doesn’t even surge it just stops dead. Imagine you’re going full throttle 25-30 PSI then all of a sudden your exhaust break kicks in. You hear the exhaust whisle from your brake, you boost going to 0, and your front end noise dives. It gets your attention real quick! Its caused by closing the exhaust to much enabling the break.

When you’re coasting downhill in third of fourth gear when you gradually move the vane from 9CM, 7CM, 6CM, 4CM, 3CM you can feel the engine slowing down. Because I try to get quicker boost starting at 7CM it creates the braking effect.

Doesn’t matter how I interpret the inputs on a spread sheet, at the end of the day the turbo actuator can only go to 16 preset positions. If you go lower then 9CM^2 the wall cause increased back pressure causing the above issue. I can start at 9CM^2 and hold it until I maxed out my boost gauge without any issues.

Adding RPM, TPS and other inputs to it wouldn’t be hard, my controllers are pretty versatile. I can receive and interpret ECU messages as well as broadcast them to control other features. It can be programmed to control your dash and aftermarket gauges. However, problem is once you start making it with all these inputs, it becomes more complex with more failure points to something that can be solved with a simple solution. The complexity in the programming and fabrication to connect extra inputs, becomes a one off setup. Once you add more inputs it’s no longer a standalone kit where any car/truck can run it with an hour of installation.

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