Best HE351ve setup on a 5.9 I've seen

loganp said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnHGbN67PIM

Uses a wastegate actuator to set normal closed and open the vanes, and uses an electronic servo operated by a switch in the cab to close for exhaust brake function and warmup.
Click to expand...

That's actually a member here... 12valve. He actually has a thread and the link to the video is in there HE351VE on a VP44 truck - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together post #13 has the link...

I am actually about to modify my set up to do the same, except with the 451 I would pull the servo in to actuate the EB and I could push it out to instantly change the initial housing size and therefore change how fast my turbo spools and how much cruising boost I'm pushing :Cheer:
 
loganp said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnHGbN67PIM

Uses a wastegate actuator to set normal closed and open the vanes, and uses an electronic servo operated by a switch in the cab to close for exhaust brake function and warmup.
Click to expand...

Thanks! :)

I think what blackskyracing is trying to do should work even better.
But what I don't know how the wg actuator will b able to actuate if it's bolted to the electric actuator.?
Since it has three positions. I was thinking all th way in (loose) - EB. Next position semi closed for good spool up. And the third position open to cruising setting.
Unless I don't understand how it works.
 
Very nice man! Looks like the brake is on all the time when the switch is flipped?? Or am I not seeing it, and it does shutoff automatically and engage like the stocker does?
 
12valve said:
Thanks! :)

I think what blackskyracing is trying to do should work even better.
But what I don't know how the wg actuator will b able to actuate if it's bolted to the electric actuator.?
Since it has three positions. I was thinking all th way in (loose) - EB. Next position semi closed for good spool up. And the third position open to cruising setting.
Unless I don't understand how it works.
Click to expand...

The linear actuator won't be bolted to the arm... It will just work against the spring pressure of the WG actuator to open the housing. Basically if the linear actuator is all the way retracted the WG actuator will pull the housing into EB and the linear actuator will push it out to the cruise and tow settings.

I might cheap out and go with a cheaper linear actuator that isn't programable to see if it works first...
 
Thanks guys!

Stroke This '07:
Thanks, If you are talking about mine... well its not a perfect setup. i have to manually engage it and disengage it with the switch. Have to hold the button for a little time to actuate it. It takes about 2 seconds to engage it and another 2 seconds to disengage it.

Blackskyracing:
Ok so it will actually work just like I imagined i think, and another plus over mine is that you have a variable stop, and you can still play with the W/g spring tension, something i can't do as that is would change the initial vane opening.
 
12valve said:
Stroke This '07:
Thanks, If you are talking about mine... well its not a perfect setup. i have to manually engage it and disengage it with the switch. Have to hold the button for a little time to actuate it. It takes about 2 seconds to engage it and another 2 seconds to disengage it.
Click to expand...

Yea, I was referring to yours. I thought thats how it was setup. Still very cool!!
 
BigDctd said:
what injectors are you running with he351? egts?
Click to expand...

On the 4x4 jammers 100 hp. And a bit toastier than the sps62 that was on there before.
And on the 2wd some RV275. On kill, Egts used to hit 1600 at 60mph, with switching to the he351ve egts reach 1600 by 85 - 90 mph. It might sound hot with These small inj but I'm at almost 7000 feet elevation.
I'm amazed by how much cooler it runs over the hx35
 
i feel like a dumb ass asking but i know what the jammers are but rv?
 
I was watching the video for the 50th time. I notice you have a stop to keep the housing from opening all the way. How far from completely open are you stopping it.

I am doing one the way you set it up except I welded a stud to the trubo arm so I can put different length arms on it to change how fast it comes in. I've played with it with shop air and it looks like a check valve and a adjustable bleedoff will control how fast the housing closes.

I mocked the ve up on an engine on the stand with mcmotorsport adapter, it won't clear the hood with the manifold flipped from what I've measured. The mcmotorsport adapter is a really nice piece of work.

It's also going to get a spring loaded air cylinder to make the exhaust brake work.

I'm wanting to set this up in a twin setup, what's the thought on the housing opening up far enough to not overspool the turbo and breath enough?
 
I like that setup a lot. These turbo's are well worth the money and time to fab them up IMO. Spool great and definately cools better than an HX35.

Eric
 
The vanes don't have to open up nearly all the way..
Just adjust it somewhat closed down and test drive. If boost is low. Then close it more to increase turbo speed and thus boost. Till around 35 -40 psi.
I think maybe 1/4" from fully open..

RV injectors are stock bosch injectors that came in a cummins rv motorhome I believe. They are 275 and 300 hp and increase around 40 hp on our trucks. They are small injectors but I like them for this elevation. And they dropped 1 second 1/4 mile over th adrenaline.

Yeah you could probably make it perfect with microcontrollers. I'm not that smart.
 
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