Best intake, and programmer chip etc

L

littlehandegan

New member
Joined
Sep 1, 2006
Messages
27
Wats the best intake for sound and performance, and also wats a good chip or tune for the most horsepower? Im not to edjumacated on the cummins, what are the best upgrades to start with?
 
What year are ou looking at? You will need gauges a fuel pressure ('98.5-'02) for sure, pyro, trans, boost. Intakes it depends. I like my AFE. A good 4" of your choice. I have an Edge comp. It is good for all around, it has timing and adds fuel. If you start to add to much power you have to get atleast a valve body. Hope this helps alittle.
 
"sound and performance" are an interesting request for an air filter system. I would venture to say that nearly all of the air filter systems are going to give the same level of performance.

I would be more concerned about finding the best performance and FILTRATION. Its amazing how much money we can toss into these trucks and then don't take the extra care to take care of our investment by getting the best filtration and quality components possible.

That being said (I like to rant!) I personally chose this system for its filtration AND performance:

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=32

Chips.. There are hundreds of options. What are your end goals with the truck? Its as the old saying goes: "go big, and in 3 months you will wish you had gone bigger!"
 
I've got the AFE Stage 2 installed in my '02 and it's a great filter. With all Oiled Filters though you've got to understand the risks.

As far as boxes and so on: the Best combo (IMHO) is the EDGE COMP stacked with a SMARTY. Use that, a set of stage 3 sticks and a FASS fuel pump and you are going to be tough to beat. Don't add a box without addressing the fuel pump!
 
Assuming your vehicle is 98-02 like the forum category says:

AFE STageII with Pro-Gaurd 7 Intake
Edge Juice w/Attitude
4 inch mandrel bent system

those three items are the best money spent if you are not going to take the truck to the track or sledpulls at a competetive level.

The new edge Juice has some REALLY good features that lend itself to dodge cummins trucks w/vp44 injection pump.

If you had different ideas about how you intend to use the truck in the future or where the truck needs to be (from a power level stand point) these may not be the right choices.

Wally / FTE
 
Hey Wyatt :

Wyatt Earp said:
I've got the AFE Stage 2 installed in my '02 and it's a great filter. With all Oiled Filters though you've got to understand the risks.
Click to expand...

Would you elaborate on this comment .....
 
JacktheBear3 said:
Would you elaborate on this comment .....
Click to expand...

There are 2 major drawbacks to oiled filters. 1 is in the design; the other is generally (although not always) user error.

The design of an oiled filter makes the filtering efficiency entirely dependent on the dust particles clinging to the oil. A fresh out of the box oiled filter is going to filter much worse then a well worn used oil filter, since the voids will have to be filled in by larger particles before the small particles will be stopped. Further, the initial small particles can be sucked through the filter and into the intake tract AFTER being coated in oil.. So you get a nice combination of dust entering the tract WITH oil, so it wants to stick to any sensors along the way.

The second (and generally user error) problem with oiled filters is that when cleaning them, people tend to over-oil and suck oil down in intact tract. This causes more damage to the delicate electronic components.
 
Exactly what I would have said. If you aren't a nit picky owner that does their own service then don't go this route. Run a BHAF or a OEM drop in or even some kind of dry flow like a AEM (?).

Now aside from adding power to the system you should really consider addressing the reliability of the fuel system. Mounting an OEM LP on the frame rail near the tank is about the cheapest fix. Don't bother with the intank DC fix as it is junk and not rated to handle diesel fuel.

What I'm getting at is before spending money on bling or power look at everyday issues. If you had a Ford before then this is all new to you I'm sure (it was to me 4 years ago). The early DMAX's don't have lift pumps and use a very similar fuel system to the CP3 found in the 3rd gen stock dodge truck. The newer DMAX now has a lift pump because the fuel requirements are too high for the CP3 injection pump.

For the record I run an AFE stage 2 (normal filter with a prefilter on it) and it works great. I also run a AFE stage 1 in my VW TDI (again normal filter with prefilter).
 
thanks for your input on the filter types...

I have used the oiled filters for 5-6 years in both diesel and gas applications. One of my pet peeves when doing routine maintenance is to look into (inspect) the air intake plumbing on the inside..... Many years ago a new filter was dropped in and away we went. After a launched motor do to dirt on a piece of equipment that had always had new filters on it I realized that checking the entire intake system was critical....SEE: I found that a new filter installed on a housing that had a defect would cost me BIG. All that said, I routinely inspect the filtering system.

Back to mny point; I do use the oiled AFE filters and I never see the dirt inside the intake tube and boots. Am I lucky? or am I just a skilled technician?
 
JacktheBear3 said:
Assuming your vehicle is 98-02 like the forum category says:

AFE STageII with Pro-Gaurd 7 Intake
Edge Juice w/Attitude
4 inch mandrel bent system

those three items are the best money spent if you are not going to take the truck to the track or sledpulls at a competetive level.

The new edge Juice has some REALLY good features that lend itself to dodge cummins trucks w/vp44 injection pump.

If you had different ideas about how you intend to use the truck in the future or where the truck needs to be (from a power level stand point) these may not be the right choices.

Wally / FTE
Click to expand...


BUT you left out one VERY important factor. Your going to need a beefier transmission! If you have all this power how are you going to get it to the ground if you clutch or T/C is slippin???:doh:
 
Both. The AFE PG 7 media is very close to paper as far as filtration goes but is still better at flowing air due to larger surface area. Also, running the prefilter is a great idea. I use the reg. filter with the prefilters!! but don't live in a dusty area.
 
Super Dave:
Yes for sure. But with no fuel it ain't going to matter very much.
 
SuperDave4x4 said:
BUT you left out one VERY important factor. Your going to need a beefier transmission! If you have all this power how are you going to get it to the ground if you clutch or T/C is slippin???:doh:
Click to expand...

Too Funny !

I began to type the "Round Two" mods when I place the original post....

Round Two:

Valve Body and TC
Stage II or III Sticks
And a FASS or Equivalent Fuel Pusher

Did not want to scare anybody.... :lolly:
 
JacktheBear3 said:
Back to mny point; I do use the oiled AFE filters and I never see the dirt inside the intake tube and boots. Am I lucky? or am I just a skilled technician?
Click to expand...


I'm not saying that oiled filters don't work.. I'm just ragging on them and saying that they don't work AS WELL AS other types of filters.

For 1, you probably are a skilled technician. You don't over oil the filters, so you don't end up with a ton of dirt inside the tract.


But, even the most skilled technician can't prevent a design flaw. Most of the oiled filter manufactures don't offer specs on how low of a um (micron) rating their filters will filter down to. If you read the brochures, its always "flow flow flow."

You have to think of what sized particles are getting down into the air intake.. and why you don't "see" dirt on the intake. If I recall correctly, a human hair is about 85um in size. Once you get down to the 45um size, you need a microscope or visual aid to even see it. And obviously, go down in size form there.. you get the point.

Most of the articles on engine wear show that particles in the 20-30um size do considerable damage to the engine. The wear trends drop off as they get smaller then 20um, and most engineers consider it reaching the insignificant level somewhere around 2um.

So, if a particle was 30um in size and went into the intake tract, you:
1: would not be able to see it with the naked eye
2: would cause measurable damage to the engine before the oil filter caught it.

Most full flow oil filters filter down to about 15-20 micron. This is why many engines can go thousands of miles without problems. A good bypass system will go even lower. Toilet Paper systems can even go SUB MICRONIC. I personally use a Hastings b50 bypass which is rated at 2um.

The AEM will filter down to 1um going into the intake tract.. Now consider this interesting tid-bit.. A HUMAN RED BLOOD CELL is 8um in size. That means that the AEM filter is filtering out particles that are smaller then a blood cell. Ever wonder why they have to be cleaned so often?

If you combine that excellent air filtration with excellent oil filtration (only a bypass will get that kind of filtration, full flow oil filters alone won't cut it) you should be able to reduce wear significantly, have much better oil analysis results, and run extended drain intervals.

All with INCREASED performance. Win Win.
 
I have been looking at the Amsoil and thew AEM recently for this reason:

The AEM will filter down to 1um going into the intake tract.. Now consider this interesting tid-bit.. A HUMAN RED BLOOD CELL is 8um in size. That means that the AEM filter is filtering out particles that are smaller then a blood cell. Ever wonder why they have to be cleaned so often?
Click to expand...

Also, it is much less time consumimng and easier to blow a filter out with air than it is to clean one and re-oil
 
FASS units are NOT the only answer but are a very good fix.

Now as far as which one:
  1. Do you want filters or just the pump?
  2. What kind of HP are you going to push?

The one which I have and would recommend is the FASS 150/150 (this means 150 style - 2 filters and pump and 150 GPH flow rate).

You can also look at the FASS 150/95 and the FASS 150/200. Then there are the 95 series which are smaller than the 150 in size but do the same thing and lastly there are the HPFP (fuel pump only versions).

Hopefully that helps.
 
Timbeaux38 said:
I have been looking at the Amsoil and thew AEM recently for this reason
Click to expand...

Amsoil makes a decent product, but man are they EXPENSIVE..

Too much $$ for my cheap butt.

Besides.. Its a lot more fun to just build your own and save yourself hundreds of dollars. :)

Just buy these items:

$6.39 -- Hastings B50 Oil Filter (or Baldwin B50)

$25.34 -- Filter Mounting Plate with correct 5/8-18 threads, part # 24755 (wix part number)

$13.34 -- 3.5 Feet High Temp/Pressure Rubber Line (Transmission Cooler Line) This was my personal choice: http://www.daycoproducts.com/daycoweb.nsf/...n_Hose?OpenForm However, there are MANY other choices to consider. Shop around, make sure you have the correct temp (I recommend a Minimum of 300* F) and pressure ratings (I recommend 200psi).

$8.74 -- Hose Clamps, 1/8 NPT fittings.

-Two (2) 90* Push on 1/8 NPT with 1/4" hose fittings. These are for the Filter Mounting Plate

-One (1) Straight Push on 1/8 NPT with 1/4" hose barb fitting

-Four (4) 1/4 Hose Clamps

$10 -- Miscellaneous Items. This includes things that you may not already have, such as pipe compound, a tap, and other smaller items that may be needed but not listed. I recommend the use of pipe compound over Teflon tape.

Those are the required parts. These parts are optional for the oil return and for the final "look" of the installation.

$13.56 -- Stainless Spectra 1/4 Fuel Hose Braided Cover

$40 -- Oil Return/Fill Cap = Part Number "EPS-OFCSW-DC" from www.oilguard.com
OR - http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf.aspx (Part #BK1301)


Save yourself a few hundred dollars and get filtration to 2um nominal, 8um absolute.

:fish: :Cheer: :fish:
 
littlehandegan said:
Which FASS fuel thing should i get, with all the mods wyatt listed?
Click to expand...
Nothing but the 150/150 is where you want to be.... Unless you study the product hard, and have a very specific reason for choosing otherwise, the 150 GPH Motor Matched with the 150GPH Pump will deliver everything you need TODAY, and have the stuff to grow when you get obscene with the mods TOMORROW.

The only downside to the 150/150 system would be size, and that is not an issue if you are truly looking for a solution.

I agree FASS is not the only answer to the issue, BUT IT IS A COMMERCIAL answer. One that has parts availability and technical support, tons of miles of happy customers and dealers that believe in the product. Ya, I sell them; But keep in mind that I am also smart enough to duplicate the process and build something that can do the same....... But the group behind FASS (DPP) work hard and are honest, they are focussed on the product and support everything they sell and more importand have sold.

With that said, I use them on my trucks, I sell them to my customers, and I feel they are the answer until someone can prove the theory wrong.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top