bigger injection pump now puking coolant

Yeah the 625's are way stronger than ur normal studs and won't allow as much "possible" deflection ....... I personally would not firering the block as this is permanent .... and costly if u have any issues with it DD not something that u can easily undo ...... o ri g the head and mls w/625's and u should not have any issues ..... make sure u re torque more than once ...... I have seen guys re torque as freequently as every month when driving real hard ..... . Depends on ur actual style ..... lotts of work to maintaining the happy HG with that power level and DD. ..
 
4x4manonbroke said:
Yeah the 625's are way stronger than ur normal studs and won't allow as much "possible" deflection ....... I personally would not firering the block as this is permanent .... and costly if u have any issues with it DD not something that u can easily undo ...... o ri g the head and mls w/625's and u should not have any issues ..... make sure u re torque more than once ...... I have seen guys re torque as freequently as every month when driving real hard ..... . Depends on ur actual style ..... lotts of work to maintaining the happy HG with that power level and DD. ..
Click to expand...

I See You Mention Mls, I Thought You Would Use A 24V gasket
 
No MLS gaskets are better gasket. Should be now need to firering a CR with proper torque/flatness. and clipped pump couldnt hurt, or just drill one small hole in the t-stat....a couple of easy things to do before just yanking the head
 
I Will Do That Tonight, I Agree The Mls Is Much Better But I Thought You Had To Use The 24V Gasket WithO rings
 
I Want The Best Way Haha, IM To A Point To Where I Just Want To Drive It And Not Worry Everytime I Squeeze On it
 
i understand ... i have a 12V and not MLS is currently avaliable for these with out some real mods to the gasket soooo .... factory gasket and O-rings are gonna be my fix here shortly and also a coolant bye pass .... been hearing that this is a massive reason for the lifting of the head on these peticular engines .... I beleive the 6.7 is the same way too ... but mine is leaking under the Thermostat housing .... did a new T-stat and such but no stopping the leak and then realized it wasnt the housing but the HG .... AAAHHH!!!
 
It will work either way. But the MLS gasket is a much tougher, more forgiving gasket. It also doesn't require as much depth cut for fire-rings (.030-.032" MLS), 24v requires (.033-.036") IIRC. Give haisley a call, they will tell you exactly what to do. If you do decide to go with Fire rings, don't be scared on the street. Alot of the problems in prior years were from square cut grooves (now most use radiused), Improper Cuts causing the rings to vibrate and crack or Improper materials.

If you just go with a stock MLS gasket, Just torque once and let it eat, although you may give it some time to seat in a check it cold, I would NOT do a hot retorque. **you may have crushed the MLS gasket to much doing a hot retorque the first time.

Firerings, Torque cold, bring to operating temp torque again hot (most will move 1/4-1/2 turn), and check again cold. never do another hot retorque. Then check studs maybe once every 6mo-1yr depending on how hard you run the truck. They just require a bit of preventative maint. to ensure a proper seal.
 
Mudn_1 said:
It will work either way. But the MLS gasket is a much tougher, more forgiving gasket. It also doesn't require as much depth cut for fire-rings (.030-.032" MLS), 24v requires (.033-.036") IIRC. Give haisley a call, they will tell you exactly what to do. If you do decide to go with Fire rings, don't be scared on the street. Alot of the problems in prior years were from square cut grooves (now most use radiused), Improper Cuts causing the rings to vibrate and crack or Improper materials.

If you just go with a stock MLS gasket, Just torque once and let it eat, although you may give it some time to seat in a check it cold, I would NOT do a hot retorque. **you may have crushed the MLS gasket to much doing a hot retorque the first time.

Firerings, Torque cold, bring to operating temp torque again hot (most will move 1/4-1/2 turn), and check again cold. never do another hot retorque. Then check studs maybe once every 6mo-1yr depending on how hard you run the truck. They just require a bit of preventative maint. to ensure a proper seal.
Click to expand...

This Is A Great Help, Doing The HotT retorque On The mls May Be The Culprit.
 
Here are the steps to getting your truck on course.

Step 1. Turn off CAPS lock.
Step 2. Pull the head and examine gasket for failure point.
Step 3. Have head checked for cracks, flatness, and then mill.
Step 4. Check block for flatness.
Step 5. Install new MLS gasket with copper spray.
Step 6. Install ARP 625s.
Step 7. Clip the water pump or use a bypass.
Step 8. Reduce the timing.
Step 9. Heat cycle and re torque. (Not a hot re torque)
Step 10. Enjoy the truck
 
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its Not Caps, Its The Way My Phone Has Acted Ever Since I Did The Last Update And I Can't Stop It Lol.
I See A Lot About The 625, Are The 425 That I Have Not Good Anymore?
 
Ha ha ha. Well fair enough on the caps.

The 425s are a great product and we used to push many many trucks higher than most guys will ever go. But the 625s are like purchasing full coverage insurance. They'll let you get away with a lot more when it comes to cylinder pressures(and timing). Especially with the timing swings that the CR engines see.
 
OhOk, The Price Of Those Things Is My Issue, Especially Since I Just Put The 425 In Not Too Long Ago
 
You can put in the 425s, pull timing. And down the road swap them. Not ideal, but it works.
 
Yeah 625's are an investment program ..... guaranteed to pay out ....LOL ..... but spendy up front ...
 
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