Billet Block opinions

dnrcustoms

dnrcustoms

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Sep 29, 2008
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Well, my 5.9 block finally split. Lasted most the season at 1200hp, changed setup and was just shy of 1400hp on fuel and it didn't last long. The guys at Scheid suggested a Billet block for my 1400-1500hp goal for next season. Just looking to get some feedback from guys. I only want to do this one more time.
Truck is for Drag racing and needs to be able to handle a few passes without lots of cool down. Thinking a wet block will be necessary or at least partial.

Would like to use my Carrillo rods, new Forged Diamond pistons, tappets and wrist pins. Already have a fully built 6.7 side draft ported head i plan on re using. Most likely keeping my triple s474 setup as it worked pretty good.

Any opinions or feedback would be appreciated.
 
Just throwing this out there, Shane Kellogg just put together a new truck using a cast block, and didn't he have a billet block that he sold?

3 much larger than s474 chargers and a sigma.

Not a bad investment if you plan on making more power and it's in your budget, and a aluminum version may be useful for drag racing and cooldown time.
 
The scheid rail has done several seasons on the sameblock over 2khp..
Same with their pulling truck.
 
I think if you are wanting to hot lap and have some street time, you need to have a wet block. Where did it split? If you go with a deckplate, you will probably end up with new rods or pistons. Figuring that into it, helps justify the billet block cost.
 
Well, from what i seen this summer and talking to some big shops. Seams many guys been splitting blocks, filled, half fills etc. estimating cost of a deck plate motor at 15k, because new rods, crank, pistons etc. lets call it an extra 5k to get into a wet billet block. At that point it almost seams more feasible to upgrade. I would love to have the ability to grow into more hp down the road and not be worried all the time.

I havent tore mine down yet, i made a half pass at a track a few weeks ago and blew water out the valve cover and developed a miss. A fresh fire ring Hg kit was just done and through the 4 HG i blew this yr never seen water come blowing out the oil fill cap!! Pulled valve cover and everything looks of in the head.
 
anybody think about casting a thicker block? I've seen how thin the stock ones are and still don't understand why more don't split.
 
mikmaze said:
anybody think about casting a thicker block? I've seen how thin the stock ones are and still don't understand why more don't split.
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i am sure that is an option, however the price for all of the tooling to make the casting, the billet price is probably cost competive and stronger.
 
Drag racer and I'm spending your money billet aluminum just mostly for the weight reduction. That said IMO a filled CR block could do 1800+ if your smart about it.
 
Where's your torque curve start/end? You've got me a little worried about mine now but I'd venture to say my p-pump cylinder pressures are drastically lower than yours since I'm sure your torque curve starts earlier. I know it's sickening to have to de-tune it down low but might be worth it if you've got the rpm's to make power a little later.
 
If I was spending the money for a billet block, I'd be hard pressed to stay with 5.9 bore size and stock deck height.

Pretty sure there's some forged 6.7 pistons in the classifieds...........
 
zstroken said:
i am sure that is an option, however the price for all of the tooling to make the casting, the billet price is probably cost competive and stronger.
Click to expand...

I saw a 6.7 block on a pallet at a pattern shop 2 years ago with a very well known motor builders name on the skid so I am assuming a recast version exists somewhere by now.
 
Biggest issue with the blocks splitting in a 1200+HP engine seems to be low rpm torque. Keep the rpm up and they seem to live a tad longer.
 
Timebomb said:
Biggest issue with the blocks splitting in a 1200+HP engine seems to be low rpm torque. Keep the rpm up and they seem to live a tad longer.
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I have killed them at the 1200hp level that made peak power at 5k. I don't necessarily agree with this. I have found the hardest thing in our experience has been the 3rd to o/d shift that pulls the motor down at least 800rpm. No matter where rpm's are at, that causes a huge spike in cylinder pressure.
 
longhorn859 said:
I have killed them at the 1200hp level that made peak power at 5k. I don't necessarily agree with this. I have found the hardest thing in our experience has been the 3rd to o/d shift that pulls the motor down at least 800rpm. No matter where rpm's are at, that causes a huge spike in cylinder pressure.
Click to expand...

Another reason alot of the big HP gasser guys don't fully believe in lock-up transmissions.
 
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