Billet cam ?

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mathews8pt

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May 31, 2009
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Got a billet cam in today for my truck, my question is should it look machined over the whole surface like a billet cam for a gasser? I can still see the casting in a couple of the lower groves. Never bought a cam for a diesel before so i was just curious.
 
what "billet" cam did you buy? what kind of build are you doing?

I have a hamilton cam, ground from a new billet (or blank) and its like you described, that doesnt mean its a "billet" piece. People seem to get confused over them also.

A regualr cam ground from a blank billet runs around $600, and true billet cam which requires block modifications will run in the $1200 range from what I've seen.
 
CamComparison.jpg


Ground from new cam 'billet' on top.
BILLET cam on bottom...
 
Ok, thats what i was wondering. It looks like the top one in the pics. So its cut from a cam blank, not a solid piece thats the same diamiter when they start. That is a little confusing when you dont mess with them that often:bang

Its a maxspool 2.5, its going in my 24v that im p-pumping.

thanks guys
 
Also, whats the word on replacing the tappets when i install this cam? I've heard it both ways...
 
mathews8pt said:
Ok, thats what i was wondering. It looks like the top one in the pics. So its cut from a cam blank, not a solid piece thats the same diamiter when they start. That is a little confusing when you dont mess with them that often:bang

Its a maxspool 2.5, its going in my 24v that im p-pumping.

thanks guys
Click to expand...


yea the maxspool is not a TRUE billet cam, like most other drop in cams. true billet cams are for those with high RPM race engines etc.

i did not replace my tappets, i inspected them and they looked great, so i left them in and used ZDDP additive to help with lubricity
 
Some say the rule of thumb is <50k miles use them again if they look great. If >50k or they don't look perfect, replace them. They're cheap too.
 
to be safe you should always change tappets with cam.. they are a matching wear set.. they all wear to a lobe and vise-versa
 
Yeah some calling their New UGL ground cams Billet confusis/fools alot of people
 
XTrEmE9156 said:
to be safe you should always change tappets with cam.. they are a matching wear set.. they all wear to a lobe and vise-versa
Click to expand...

That's my theory as well...they're cheap, and they wear together, so I always replace them together!

Chris
 
and now for my thread hijack, im gonna be pulling my timing case on my 97 to fix my oil leak and as long as im that far into the motor im gonna get a cam for it also.

Here is my current setup, 62/65/12 - 5x.012's - Rack Plug - Tuned AFC - 16.5* - 5" Str8 Pipe - BHAF- No Plate - 4k GSK - 60# Springs

I am eventually gonna be shooting for 650-700 hp with a twins setup.
Truck will never turn more then 4000rpm and will be daily driver/towing on weekends.

What would be a good suggestion on a cam for my truck, cost is a factor for me (poor college student)

I am currently looking at getting the F1 Helix 2 cam, would that be an ok choice or should I look into something else?
 
So whats the best to replace them with? just factory units? I've heard of some guys using the CR tappets, but havent researched it much.
 
CR tappets have a bigger diameter face...lets you go with a little more radical profile.


Some people say you can't use the CR tappet with a mechanical fuel pump...I am with my H2!
Chris
 
People are calling UGL’s “Cast Billets” , for some reason , but I have the similar to the UGL that everyone else uses , it’s a new core that allows me to grind over 60 different grinds with any Lobe separation angle , and any center line. . I have 8620 billets that are for extreme service IE big P Pumps , and high rpms as in over 5000. With a standard P pump.
The area that is ground off , is to take trade marks off . These cams are wide lobe , high quality cores , machines in the good old USA

all of these cam are drilled and tapped for bolt on retainers .
I have send around 50 out in the last 3 or 4 weeks .
DSCN1133.jpg

DSCN1130.jpg


DSCN1134.jpg
 
COMP461 said:
People are calling UGL’s “Cast Billets” , for some reason , but I have the similar to the UGL that everyone else uses , it’s a new core that allows me to grind over 60 different grinds with any Lobe separation angle , and any center line. . I have 8620 billets that are for extreme service IE big P Pumps , and high rpms as in over 5000. With a standard P pump.
The area that is ground off , is to take trade marks off . These cams are wide lobe , high quality cores , machines in the good old USA

all of these cam are drilled and tapped for bolt on retainers .
I have send around 50 out in the last 3 or 4 weeks .
DSCN1133.jpg

DSCN1130.jpg


DSCN1134.jpg
Click to expand...

I'm looking at cams. How does your cam compare to a Big Stick?:poke:
 
Signature600 said:
CR tappets have a bigger diameter face...lets you go with a little more radical profile.


Some people say you can't use the CR tappet with a mechanical fuel pump...I am with my H2!
Chris
Click to expand...

So would i be better off to get CR tappets, or just stick with new stockers? Im running an A1000 fuel pump so no need to worry about the mechanical one.
 
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