Biodiesel in a commonrail

Pickles

Pickles

Reads too much
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Jun 25, 2010
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I was going to make biodiesel the methanol/lye method and run it in my 05, anyone have any problems, I was going to add the cetane boost ince it says biodiesel friendly and maybe even get an airdog for this reason.
 
Pickles said:
I was going to make biodiesel the methanol/lye method and run it in my 05, anyone have any problems, I was going to add the cetane boost ince it says biodiesel friendly and maybe even get an airdog for this reason.
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As long as you don't mind trashing your injectors,you won't have any problems.
 
Methanol and lye - think about the properties of these reagents.

One has corrosive qualities and has a very low viscosity.

The other is alkaline.

You'd be better off running SVO.. Not that that's a good idea either
 
You are not putting methanol nor lye into your motor, it is methoxide, and I will do PH tests to make sure I have no water and pure biodiesel in there. You think SVO is safe in a commonrail?
 
jellydonut said:
Methanol and lye - think about the properties of these reagents.

One has corrosive qualities and has a very low viscosity.

The other is alkaline.

You'd be better off running SVO.. Not that that's a good idea either
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The method he is talking about is using SVO, then adding lye to remove all the fats outs of the oil(thats what clogs cold fuel systems) then you wash the fat out with water then use methanol to seperate the "clean" oil from the fat contaminated water. Or at least thats the info, I might have the steps and ingredients mixed up... Either way, its a lot better fuel than just using SVO or WVO. You also run it through a filter when finished, usually in the 10 micron range I think. But when you are done, it is smooth and clear almost like #2 and if done right has 0 trace of the caustic lye or methanol in it, let alone the water. This is the only method I would use to make bio myself for my truck. And I would run this all day long in my Cummins, but I have a mechanical pump. I can't say how a CR system will like it.
 
I have heard that biodiesel does not atomize like straight diesel does at the high pressures that the CR system demands. Please correct me if I am wrong.

I wouldn't do it if it were me.
 
safer running a blend, 80 20. 20 being bio, carry spare fuel filters with you wherever you go and tools to change it.
 
Jeremy, I know multiple people running filtered WVO in their 12 valves so your safe, and you mix the methanol and lye creating methoxide, you mix methoxide with WVO and drain glycerin by-product, then wash, then dry, then I'm filtering it through a 1 micron whole house water filter and a 5 micron fuel/water separator b4 it goes in my tank. As for clogging my fuel filter biodiesel is a solvent, its actually cleaning the crud off the bottom of your tank, its not the biodiesel itself, I am going to mix it 50/50 then 75/50 just to make sure I'm ok.
 
Been running bio for 3years on and off in my 700hp CR...never a issue and injectors still happy!!!
 
Been buying it from commercial retailers, but IIRC the ATSM standard is the methanol/lye method.
 
I make biodiesel from wvo, using the same method although i would recommend you use a drywash method rather than water, it is much faster, easier, and you dont have to dispose of water that has chemicals within. i run my bio in a 7.3idi a 7.3 powerstroke and a 1.9 TDI none are common rail but people say powerstrokes need clean fuel, i have had no problems so far after 2+ years, i would take my home made fuel over no. 2 any day that stuff is nasty! i would reccomend learning how to test your fuel befor running it, check out this site
How to Make Biodiesel at Home
if you already have not
also this site has good info and products
Utah Biodiesel Supply - Biodiesel Processing Supplies, Equipment, Processors and Information - Biodiesel Homebrewing

here is a popular bio forum

http://www.biodiesel.infopop.cc

if you need any help getting started message me
good luck
Carl
 
Thank you to both of you, however I have been living on those sites and many others the last month, I am making 2 litre test batches and the flycerin separayes fine and the biiesel was crstal clear, so I put 25% water in there, shook it up and the soap is rly thick and hard to drain out idk what stupid thing I did now?
 
you just created an emulsion thats why i was saying try dry washing, a good way to break it up is to add salt to the biodiesel water mix it will help break up the soaps.

next time you make a batch and try to wash it use warm water and dont mix it to hard the first time, thats what creates the problem.

good luck! post some pics of what you have made
 
I found out this morning from mixing it too hard, thank you very much, I siphoned out the emulsion on the bottom, added hot water on top very slowly and did it that way, it seems to be going fine now, lets hope it ends fine haha
 
Ok I just checked it, something must be wrong, on the first wash (after I siphoned out the emulsion) the water separated instantly and its clear, but the biodiesel is still very cloudy is this when I let it dry or should I start all over?
 
yes! thats good let it dry in an open container or you can use a little heat to speed things up, but be careful not to get it to hot with out mixing because you can create a steam explosion and get burned:ft:
 
I came home today and was clear but I can also see the blur inside it, I put a light on it and in 2 hours is was gone, I just made a mini processor that I'm going to bed feeling so smart haha :hehe: I will post pics when I finish
 
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