Bleeding the clutch?

z79outlaw

z79outlaw

New member
Joined
May 29, 2007
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411
Is there any easy way to go about it? I have the SBC upgraded hydraulics, but had to disassemble it to lengthen the throw rod, for my Chevy application. I've heard it's damn near impossible but would like some input, otherwise maybe I should call and see if I can get the manufactor to bleed it but im sure that will be $$$ thats even if they'll do it.
 
usually impossible. try taking the slave cyl off the trans and pushing the rod in and out a bunch. have someone else watch for air bubbles in the master. take the cap off the clutch master before you try this. this works about 10% of the time, but its worth a shot
 
Anyone else got any input? I'm going to try the above mentioned and cross my fingers otherwise call SBC on friday when I get back by my truck
 
If you have another "spare" master cap, try drilling a small hole and use light shop air blown through the hole while bleeding. This has worked numerous times for me when bleeding the PITA ones.
 
when i did my conversion i manually bled the slave cylinder while it was out of the truck it was a pita but then i put the resivor on and the master cylinder with the line down to the sllave cylinder and pumped the clutch to try and work out the air and attached the lines and went from there like stated before its a royal pita
 
dodgeram2500 said:
usually impossible. try taking the slave cyl off the trans and pushing the rod in and out a bunch. have someone else watch for air bubbles in the master. take the cap off the clutch master before you try this. this works about 10% of the time, but its worth a shot
Click to expand...

Worked like a charm, took about an hour, before I didnt see anymore new bubbles. Thanks
 
remove the slave, leave the master and line bolted in the truck.

Bleed the slave
at a bench, point the fluid inlet of the slave up, push down until the rod is all the way in (be careful, she spits)

have a friend start the fill the slave with fluid as you SLOWLY let the spring decompress the piston

now that its bled, get under the truck w/o spilling anything out of the slave

Bleed the line

have your friend pull the cap off the master, and let the line start the gravity bleed (may have to depress the pedal to get it started) as he keeps the res full.

once you get good clean fluid out the line, use the fluid thats coming out to make sure the slave is still full, and put the line in, put roll pin back in.

Master

the master is self bleeding, reinstall the slave, as you compress the piston the fluid will pump threw the master and into the res, make sure you compress it slowly to avoid making a mess.

Done

top off the res, put the cap on, and pump the pedal a few times, you should be good to go.
 
i race drag bikes and bleeding the brakes is the same (royal pita)

check out this trick: fill the system and pull the lever in. put a rubber band around the handle bar and the brake lever. go to bed. in the morning the rubber band will have shot across the shop and there wont be any more air in the system

dont have a clue how or why this works, just know that it does. same type of a system as our trucks so we just need to figure out a way to put a rubber band around the clutch pedal and the floor

lol
 
I took mine apart and filled up the cylinder and the ressavor. and put itall together while everything had fluid coming out. worked for a year and still going
 
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