blew headgasket again.

Ur right and I hate that I'm interested in everyone's opinions I'm open to all. I just don't like a smart ass. Thanks everyone that's posted on here keep on posting ur thoughts I'm here to listin.
 
Yeah it's your front oil port that blew it. You should mill the head flat, oring and while some might not agree i torque the the studs 10lbs past spec. I haven't had a problem doing it this way
 
I wouldn't worry with the bottom end if I were you, even at the hp you'll be at with a 64 and larger injectors. Put a cam and springs in it, resurface the head and block, torque your studs at least 3 times, the last time with the engine warm.
 
A.R.P. says to never torque them when the engine is warm! You can torque 425's up to 150 with no problem then you should not blow a gasket with that setup.
 
I would o-ring the head and when you put it back on torque it using the Garmon method up to 150ft-lbs. I did my studs one at a time with the Garmon method and my stock gasket is holding 80psi.
 
BgBlDodge said:
Now I disagree with the statement about resurfacing the head. If this is the second time his headgasket has blown then he either needs to try a different shop or have both the head and block checked and decked and surfaced to make sure this doesn't happen again.
Click to expand...

Ah sorry I meant the block! I woke up shortly after that post from my phone falling out of my hand onto my face in bed lol
 
Anybody running a multil layer steel gasket on 24v's like they do on the common rail? When it comes time for me do a head gasket ive been thinking of going that route. My buddy has an 03 with HX40/HT3B and ALOT of fuel and has no problems with head gasket issues. When he had stock head bolts he could stretch the bolt and lift the head under hard acceleration but with the new studs at 150 ft ibs there are no issues. It just seems this would be cheaper and easier then fire ringing the head... or am I wrong?
 
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