block O-ringing

wagoneer

wagoneer

New member
Joined
May 11, 2006
Messages
346
Help needed,

I finally got time to put my engine together. I like O-ring the block.
I have the O-ring tool(thanks to CC12V) and copper wire.
How deep I have to cut and what diameter? I will use standard head gasket and I have 0.04 over bored sylinder.

Any advice?
wagoneer
 
I would run a fire ring type, if you are going to cut the block its not much different anyways. The modified head gaskets aren't much more anyways.
 
I will not run more than maybe 60lbs. I think O-ringed block will help hold more then just standard gasket whit out anyting.
 
An o-ringed block will definitely hold more than just a standard gasket, but why not o-ring the block, and run a modified gasket so that the wire will make a direct seal with the head rather than having it crush the ring in the head gasket?
 
wagoneer said:
What cind a modified gasket you meaning?
Click to expand...

A gasket with the stock fire ring cut out of it. This way, the rings you set in the block actually replace that part of the gasket.
 
You'll be fine with an o-ringed block. If it can survive 120psi of back pressure in my truck, I don't think you'll have any problems if it's done correctly. Is there a reason you went with copper orings instead of stainless steel? There have been some posts on here about oringing, serach for their specs. I think the most common is .041 wire with .015 protrusion, but don't take my word on it. See what Joe Hellmann recommends for the product he sold you. Oh yeah, and please practice getting a uniform depth with the cutter before you do the block.
 
If it is going to be anything close to a daily driver, I would go with the 0-rings. They will hold up better to the daily driving conditions. Fire-Rings are designed more for race/sled pull applications only.

Not saying you can't use fire rings for a daily driver, because our 06 cummins has them, we just go through a new gasket/ring set every 5-6 months.
 
I would stick to the idea of o-ringing. They hold just fine. And at 60 psi, I wouldn't sweat it. Might want to invest in drive pressure gauge. Keep an eye on them o-rings.
 
Ultimate Diesel said:
If it is going to be anything close to a daily driver, I would go with the 0-rings. They will hold up better to the daily driving conditions. Fire-Rings are designed more for race/sled pull applications only.

Not saying you can't use fire rings for a daily driver, because our 06 cummins has them, we just go through a new gasket/ring set every 5-6 months.
Click to expand...

and what exactly is failing? sounds like the reciever grooves are not uniformly cut.

I run fire rings as well as most of my friends, and with proper machining none have had an issue. some trucks have been running them for several years
 
We are getting carbon etching underneath the rings. Grooves are cut perfect. No problem there.

ARP's are as tight as they will go before they snap. Waiting on the ARP 625's but they are very scarce and cost roughly $1200 per set.

The rings don't do well with the expanding and contracting of the cylinder head on daily drivers. Starting up Shutting Down, Starting up Shutting Down, over and over. It just tends not to like it.
 
Ultimate Diesel said:
I would stick to the idea of o-ringing. They hold just fine. And at 60 psi, I wouldn't sweat it. Might want to invest in drive pressure gauge. Keep an eye on them o-rings.
Click to expand...

I have drive pressure gauge.
So is stick whit o-rings and lets see whats happening.
 
joefarmer said:
Is there a reason you went with copper orings instead of stainless steel? Oh yeah, and please practice getting a uniform depth with the cutter before you do the block.
Click to expand...

There is no reason for copper wire its was in the box whit the o-ring tool Joe send me.
I have to find some old V8 gasoline block to practice the cutting.
 
Last edited:
Do the o-ring diameter have to go exactly middle of the head gasket firering?
 
Smokem said:
0.030" receiver groove with an 0.042" wire equals 0.012" protrusion, the bore center is 120mm.
Click to expand...

120mm bore center is going out of stok gasket firering???
I was measured it and it seems to be something 112mm(then its going to be center of the firering)
 
i have run fire rings (groove in head and block) since 2003 and my truck is my daily driver. if i would do it again, and i will, i am goign to oring the head only. seems to hold very well, reliable and also a head is a ton cheaper to replace if something happens than a block.
 
why doesn't anyone mention timing when discussing o-ring vs fire ring. I think the timing adds more cylinder pressure than a 60psi turbo.
 
Because the subject at hand is a simple daily driver with an aftermarket turbo producing 60 PSI. Maybe some fueling mods.

Not some extreme sled pulling engine build.
 
Wagoneer,
Shoot for .010 to .015 protrusion, if possible use spring steel wire, its much tougher. My original orings failed quickly (blew the head gasket, 5 out of 6 cylinders), protrusion was about .006 and the stainless wire just did not work well. I had it redone and the guy used spring steel wire and .010-.012 protrusion, so far, 0 problems, 10k miles and counting.
Tim.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top