Blown Head Gasket, Pulled Head Tonight And....

NickTF

NickTF

Single turbo turd.
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
5,887
....looks like when I thought I had a blown gasket and started seeing coolant in the resevoire the gasket had been hurt just a little bit. Been riding like that for a while but the way it busted no coolant into oil or coolant into the pistons. The front is what went and lucky again it just went from the coolant passage to the front of the motor.

Here's the damage I caused months ago when I thought I had a hg issue. Wasn't severe enough to cause a failure though but does explain why the pressure showed in the coolant system
IMG_0841.jpg


Hard to see in this photo but the gray material between the fire ring and the front of the gasket is what went causing coolant to run right out of the front of the motor.
IMG_0844.jpg


The other area that was contributing to the system being pressurized from time to time.
IMG_0842.jpg


Man that's one good lookin motor for the abuse it's put up with. around 126,000 miles
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The solution! A1 studs. Bottom tapped all holes and ready to put them in tomorrow.
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Hilarious you have to pull the head with a fricken crane ha!
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The hole shebang!
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IMG_0842.jpg
 
I thought we were the only ones to have problems with headgaskets....LOL

J/K

Good thing you caught it before anything major happened.
 
Probably already know it but check that head for flatness. I just did my head gasket with studs, three weeks later head came off again and my gasket looked worse than yours the second time around. I'm doing o rings this time around though.
 
What is the protrusion of your o-rings?

From what I have heard 6-8 maxish (Someone please correct if I am wrong) works best for durability.

I had the same issue pressurizing the coolant system. Of course mine issue was self inflected towing heavy with high timing and not enough RPM's. Also are set at 10 thousandth clamps real hard just not very forgiving.

Throwing this out there
 
mine wasn't o ringed when i blew the gasket just studded. I'm hoping o ringing it keeps the head together this time.
 
Protrusion was around .009 to .010 when the head went on the first time. This time around I haven't measured yet but would like to before I put the head back on. The motor was making some power and with alot of timing, stock compression, 4000rpm the stock bolts may have been pushed beyond their capability.

Give i'm toning down the truck with a little 62mm single and plan to back down the timing to around 20 degrees I don't see any issues showing up again or atleast hopefully not showing up again.
 
That will be a totally different truck at 20 degrees timing and a 62.

I see you have ARP studs, in the instructions do they tell you to T/Q all studs the same?

10-12 thou protrusion is normal, some run more like me, holds better but it is harder to make the head seat.

Jim
 
Jim Fulmer said:
That will be a totally different truck at 20 degrees timing and a 62.

I see you have ARP studs, in the instructions do they tell you to T/Q all studs the same?

10-12 thou protrusion is normal, some run more like me, holds better but it is harder to make the head seat.

Jim
Click to expand...


A1 studs, ARP lubricant.
 
Only sissys use cherry pickers for the cylinder head! Real men get in there and muscle it out.....with the help of a buddy standing on the ground. LOL
 
I read a while back that clipping 2 of the 5 fins on the water pump helps buy relieving some drive pressure on the coolant system.
 
Got Smoke? said:
Only sissys use cherry pickers for the cylinder head! Real men get in there and muscle it out.....with the help of a buddy standing on the ground. LOL
Click to expand...

I set mine on by myself...but then I couldn't torque it because I was so tired:hehe: :hehe:

Next time I'll use a chery picker of get help;)
Chris
 
Ha, I hear ya. The crane had a hard time gettin the head up guessing because the orings set in the fire rings of the gasket. I don't see any self proclaimed muscle heads popping the head off ha. But seriously, you guys pull these heads off with the manifolds and turbo on them, that's gotta be about 240 lbs of very akwards weight. I don't see Brock Lesnar pullin that feat off but I could be wrong.

A1 studs.

Yeah Jim, hopin it will be a much different animal. This 468 is capable of some big power and plan was to send a 12mm 180 to Seth and have it setup for some big power but this head gasket poppin caused me to do some thinking about making my daily driver a parts reckin machine.
 
silverram323 said:
I read a while back that clipping 2 of the 5 fins on the water pump helps buy relieving some drive pressure on the coolant system.
Click to expand...

I'm sure the rpms I saw when the front of the gasket went helped caused the front to go out like it did from the coolant pressure:doh:
 
Excessive Drive Pressure and High timing are the death of alot of headgaskets.

You may not have had that issue if it was studded from the start.
 
what u got done to your truck atm anyway ??


it's just a headgasket

excuse to fix it and go nuttier


this truck is my DD, and i have to drive like 1300 km to work and back every 2 weeks from BC to alberta, in temps from -50 to +40 celcius....


and i still want to make big power and be able to blow up driveshafts and rear ends
 
Hammer said:
Excessive Drive Pressure and High timing are the death of alot of headgaskets.

You may not have had that issue if it was studded from the start.
Click to expand...

I think the 105psi drive I saw combined with 26 degrees during issues with the quick spool flange not opening properly killed the small water passages. The front it's hard to say but it's likely the rpm. I've had that quick spool flange off for a while now and have never seen over 1 to 1 with this 468 with nothing in the way of the turbine wheel. With that rack plug the truck would pull to 4000rpm if a gear was missed and it was missed when the hg went!

I definitely agree, studs may have prevented this from happening but it's caused me to do some thinking on the truck and it's direction so can't say i'm terribly sad it did happen:Cheer: Studs going in now though so hopefully the little timing and tiny charger will keep me trouble free!
 
Kronic_187 said:
what u got done to your truck atm anyway ??


it's just a headgasket

excuse to fix it and go nuttier


this truck is my DD, and i have to drive like 1300 km to work and back every 2 weeks from BC to alberta, in temps from -50 to +40 celcius....


and i still want to make big power and be able to blow up driveshafts and rear ends
Click to expand...

A bunch of stuff. My truck's a DD so going to tone it down.
 
Well I got it running again but am a little worried about the rocker stud in number 5. Keep in mind all threads were bottom tapped and cleaned out as best I could with a shop vacuum and putting a tube down in the threads with the shop vac pulling vacuum on it (in other words damn clean).

Torqueing all of the studs in the stock sequence from 0 to 50 to 75 to 100 to 125 resulted in fairly normal loads except I noticed that number 5 rocker stud took a hair more from 100 to 125. Well I got it up to about 124 (actually torqued the final cold tq with wrench set at 127 and backed to 124 during cold on #5 rocker stud). I fired the truck up and let it idle for about 10 minutes and reved to about 1700 very slowly and put the truck in gear a few times to bring it up to temperature. After doing so I shut it down and did the hot tq by just turning the nuts to 125. Most went to 125 with about 2 turns to 1 turn. Once again though number 5 rocker was a problem not even getting to 115 in about 4 or 5 turns. For what it's worth number 6 rocker stud took about 3 turns to get to 125. At this point I think i'm going to leave it be and just drive it seeing what happens. The 5 rocker stud was deep in the block with the top of the stud flush with the nut. I did notice the stud coming up over the nut though. Perhaps the threads in the block are week there?

Thoughts? Just interested in what you guys think? I'm not pulling the head to heli coil or any crazyness unless this thing caused a hg failure.

Plan is to drive easy and do my final hot retorque in a few days after driving to and from work.
 
NickTF said:
Well I got it running again but am a little worried about the rocker stud in number 5. Keep in mind all threads were bottom tapped and cleaned out as best I could with a shop vacuum and putting a tube down in the threads with the shop vac pulling vacuum on it (in other words damn clean).

Torqueing all of the studs in the stock sequence from 0 to 50 to 75 to 100 to 125 resulted in fairly normal loads except I noticed that number 5 rocker stud took a hair more from 100 to 125. Well I got it up to about 124 (actually torqued the final cold tq with wrench set at 127 and backed to 124 during cold on #5 rocker stud). I fired the truck up and let it idle for about 10 minutes and reved to about 1700 very slowly and put the truck in gear a few times to bring it up to temperature. After doing so I shut it down and did the hot tq by just turning the nuts to 125. Most went to 125 with about 2 turns to 1 turn. Once again though number 5 rocker was a problem not even getting to 115 in about 4 or 5 turns. For what it's worth number 6 rocker stud took about 3 turns to get to 125. At this point I think i'm going to leave it be and just drive it seeing what happens. The 5 rocker stud was deep in the block with the top of the stud flush with the nut. I did notice the stud coming up over the nut though. Perhaps the threads in the block are week there?

Thoughts? Just interested in what you guys think? I'm not pulling the head to heli coil or any crazyness unless this thing caused a hg failure.

Plan is to drive easy and do my final hot retorque in a few days after driving to and from work.
Click to expand...

Hum, I think Id pull that stud and at least look at the threads on both ends and mic the over all length compaired to one that torqued down correctly. Sounds like maybe that one was streaching? Check it out before a failure. And ya these stinking heads are crazy heavy, ive still always set them on or off by myself though, cant get that 'feel' of the head setting down right and hitting the dowls with a lift, I do remove the charger and manifold though, good luck.
 
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