Boring Cylinders??

[Jim Fulmer]

Without throwing someone under the bus there are some that just over think things way too much, for a low RPM motor I have to ask why on God green earth do you need a hone plate and having said that what happens to the block after the plate is released and re-torqued, does it distort the very same way as the last time.

Jim

 

[12vriviera]

I assume since this was done to save such valuable time that the rest of the short block was in tact? Cant imagine honing a cyl. all the way to +.020" and all that metal dust and debre in and around the crank and other internals, Id see no way to flush it well enough. And one cyl. overbore and not the others is just odd, never heard of it and would have never crossed my mind to do so. I suppose in a pinch like already said if the r's are kept low enough it should work but that cylinder will be of some % diff. than the others I would think.

we used duct putty in the bottom of the cylinder around crank to keep everything out. used a mixture of diesel and atf as hone oil, plugged every hole in the deck we could get to with duct putty. went through 5 rolls of blue shop towels(thanks to the place i work for) and 4 cans of brake cleaner after we were done... looked everywhere with bright lights to check for powder and metal... like i said it has 45k miles on the fix and we even reused the rod bearing. we balanced the pistons with the kitchen scale to as close as i could get, its not the best but its what we had to work with for time and budget.

 

[Riflemanusmc]

Call me overly cautious, but I would find a shop that had the torque plate to do my machine work.

:clap:>>>>:thankyou2:Have been doing automotive and diesel machine work since the 80's. My $.02. I'd rather have it done with a plate...

 

[Riflemanusmc]

oh absolutely!!! and they are torque-plate honed when they are originally manufactured/assembled

now, if you wanna get real with it, you should torque-plate hone it with 200-220* water running through the block

Been there bud!!:rockwoot: Did it with our old SS Hemi..

 

[stock600]

we used duct putty in the bottom of the cylinder around crank to keep everything out. used a mixture of diesel and atf as hone oil, plugged every hole in the deck we could get to with duct putty. went through 5 rolls of blue shop towels(thanks to the place i work for) and 4 cans of brake cleaner after we were done... looked everywhere with bright lights to check for powder and metal... like i said it has 45k miles on the fix and we even reused the rod bearing. we balanced the pistons with the kitchen scale to as close as i could get, its not the best but its what we had to work with for time and budget.

Great, If all's well then I say good for you. I love seeing people take on projects and do the work themselves, rather than taking it to a shop and paying 3x over.

 

[TMONEYDIESEL]

I don't know about if you can do it. But I don't think I would ever be comfortable with having one oversized cylinder. No, machine work isn't cheap, but neither is rebuilding the same engine again later.
Jeff Mumau (Snedge on here) has the best prices on rebuild kits that I have found so far.

It's a non issue