Bottom end balancing for 5K.

Light It Up

Light It Up

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Oct 22, 2008
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I was tryin to gather some info on where to take my lower end to get balanced and what it will cost. This is my first time so I may ask some dumb questions. Do I take the whole block and everything without the head or how do they balance everything? Thanks in advace.

BR
 
When I took my motor in for Machine work, the quoted me $200 to get the bottom end ready for 5K+. Thats Ballanced crank, Rods and pistons, knife edged crank, and line honed rods if needed. I thought that was a VERY good price for all the work that entails!

Diamond Engine and Machine in Monticello, In. The do top quility work thats out there on more trucks, cars and dragsters than you would think!!!!
 
It's more like $200 just to balance the crank rod and pistons on a 5.9L cummins, I can't see how you get the crank knife edged for that.
 
Ok now its just getting my engine out there. So they need the whole engine to do it?
 
:pop: i'll be doing the same thing with my 6.7 motor shortly so i'm in the same boat with the same questions.
 
Ok just got off the phone with Zach at Hamilton cams and he said Crankshaft,Rods,Pistons and also said its a good idea to take the Flywheel and Pressure plate if you have a man.
 
Light It Up said:
Ok just got off the phone with Zach at Hamilton cams and he said Crankshaft,Rods,Pistons and also said its a good idea to take the Flywheel and Pressure plate if you have a man.
Click to expand...

So what happens when ya get a new clutch. If your pulling it wont be your last one.
 
On inline engines you more or less just zero out the crankshaft whereas on v type engines you have to factor in bob weights based on calculated reciprocating mass. I keep a junk 4bt crankshaft at my machinists that has been zero balanced just as a fixture for flywheels balancers and converters.If it is a balanced engine then I only use balanced converters, clutches, and balancers.

I have come to think after seeing how far some of these clutches and pressure plates are off weight wise, that it is 100% pissing in the wind to balance an engine if you are not going balance the flywheel and look at the balancer at the same time. I have seen some of the flywheels over 40grams out and some of the pressure plates almost 35 grams. Add to that your floater plate on twins and triples and you can easily be over 100grams out if they are lined up on the same side. All this while people are talking about getting the crank +/- 2 grams. Kind of funny actually. One other thing flywheel imbalance is on a much larger diameter which adds more stress to the crank.

The sad part is that I too once believed that all flywheels and cranks were already zeroed out by manufacturers. Until my machinist ( a realist) talked me into bringing my clutch in.

It is cheap and quick, once you score a junk crank and convince your machinist to keep one in-house. You don't have to do it, it is just a waste balancing an engine if you don't

Zach
 
My guy charges $200 to balance the rotating assembly. Are you going with all fresh parts? (pistons, bearings) If so you may want to go over-sized for displacement so then you will need the block for line boaring, cylinder boaring, ect. Line boaring is about $375, and cylinder boring is $30 a hole I think.
 
Light It Up said:
I was tryin to gather some info on where to take my lower end to get balanced and what it will cost. This is my first time so I may ask some dumb questions. Do I take the whole block and everything without the head or how do they balance everything? Thanks in advace.

BR
Click to expand...

In my area, there are many trucks turning 5200rpm on stock internals. They have fluidamprs, upgraded springs, headstuds, but that is it. Some of them don't even have a fluidampr. Isn't Getblown5.9 still on a stock bottom end as well?
 
Hamilton Cams said:
On inline engines you more or less just zero out the crankshaft whereas on v type engines you have to factor in bob weights based on calculated reciprocating mass. I keep a junk 4bt crankshaft at my machinists that has been zero balanced just as a fixture for flywheels balancers and converters.If it is a balanced engine then I only use balanced converters, clutches, and balancers.

I have come to think after seeing how far some of these clutches and pressure plates are off weight wise, that it is 100% pissing in the wind to balance an engine if you are not going balance the flywheel and look at the balancer at the same time. I have seen some of the flywheels over 40grams out and some of the pressure plates almost 35 grams. Add to that your floater plate on twins and triples and you can easily be over 100grams out if they are lined up on the same side. All this while people are talking about getting the crank +/- 2 grams. Kind of funny actually. One other thing flywheel imbalance is on a much larger diameter which adds more stress to the crank.

The sad part is that I too once believed that all flywheels and cranks were already zeroed out by manufacturers. Until my machinist ( a realist) talked me into bringing my clutch in.

It is cheap and quick, once you score a junk crank and convince your machinist to keep one in-house. You don't have to do it, it is just a waste balancing an engine if you don't

Zach
Click to expand...

:clap::clap:
 
The guy i use wants crank, rods and caps, pins, pistons with rings, bearings, complete clutch, and dampner. All crank balancing is done at 500 rpm and thats pretty standard.
 
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