Bouncing need help

i was going to say leveling kit too! my buddy had the same exact bounce and it was the leveling kit took it out and no more bounce! i agree that you should build some ladder bars it will help. imo
 
Just curious why everyone says ladder bars? Do they not achieve the same result as what I have? They both keep the axle from twisting? Do ladders do something more that I am missing?

Please dont take this as rude I am really curious?
 
One other thing I forgot to mention, is that in the first 2 pulls that I did not bounce I was using another hitch at 23", and I switched to a new one with the first bounce that is 26"
 
ninerqb8 said:
Just curious why everyone says ladder bars? Do they not achieve the same result as what I have? They both keep the axle from twisting? Do ladders do something more that I am missing?

Please dont take this as rude I am really curious?
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Your traction bar set up should work fine. I have several trucks running bars similar to yours and have no problem bouncing.

One thing you might try is raising your blocks up 2 or 3" and then pull your suspension down w/straps until your back to 1" of travel this way your suspension is loaded some and not just riding on the stops.
 
PTPULLINCHASSIS said:
Your traction bar set up should work fine. I have several trucks running bars similar to yours and have no problem bouncing.

One thing you might try is raising your blocks up 2 or 3" and then pull your suspension down w/straps until your back to 1" of travel this way your suspension is loaded some and not just riding on the stops.
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Meaning shorter blocks but pull it down so it is still 1" travel?
 
As far as your blocks go, it depends on how the rules are wrote. there is a difference between 1" of "travel" and 1" of "suspension clearance". On my block for my Wagon, I took the factory bumpstops out and then jacked the frame up so axle was at full sag. Measured for steel block minus about an inch and then the amount of the rubber stop. Bolt stop to new block, mount to frame. This will rake the rear of your truck up and still give 1" of "travel"

I also run longer bars though. I'm roughly 8' long on a crew cab short bed.$.02

And Yes, I know it's a gasser. So keep laughter to a min! lol
 

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It says 1" compression travel. Otherwise I would rake it with the blocks. Thats why I wondered about doing that with air bags. Lift the body up till the axle is as far down as it will go. Build blocks that leave 1" then put bags on and air them up untill the blocks are 1" away. I have heard that bags will make it bounce though? IDK?
 
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I would try 60 rear, 30 front.
Also try lowering you hitch back down.
 
ninerqb8 said:
It says 1" compression travel. Otherwise I would rake it with the blocks. Thats why I wondered about doing that with air bags. Lift the body up till the axle is as far down as it will go. Build blocks that leave 1" then put bags on and air them up untill the blocks are 1" away. I have heard that bags will make it bounce though? IDK?
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I'd put $$ on it being the 1" of travel causing the bouncing. Try to load the suspension like another member mentioned I bet that helps!
 
When I ran single wheel, no weight, and 1" I had 60 psi in the rears and 18-20 in the fronts.
 
Do you think your traction bars are "loading" and then suddenly releasing their energy prior to loading (tension under load, or axle torque) all over again? This would happen more at the beginning of a pull like your video, then would ease a bit as the aggressive clutch grabs and gets the sled moving?

An extreme case of what you experience is maybe the same thing as what zstroken went through???

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxVsVKjKrIE

Maybe that's why everyone is suggesting ladder bars instead. I wish I knew!
 
Got Smoke? said:
I'd put $$ on it being the 1" of travel causing the bouncing. Try to load the suspension like another member mentioned I bet that helps!
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Not sure how to load the suspension when they require 1" compression travel? Are you saying it would be worth doing what i mentioned?
 
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