Breathers into exhaust

kxhonda said:
I'm using the cheap Summit racing kit with the angled tubes welded into the downpipe about 8" away from the turbo outlet. This is also with a 4" downpipe into 5" exhaust and single stack. Used the valve cover breathers that came with kit in my valve cover.
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And so far so good?
 
shiftycapone said:
Thats exactly how I was looking to do mine. Was the bung angled Forrest, like the ones in the kits?
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yeah, it was done just like the gasser header evac stups

at first I loved it because it quit coating the underside and tailgate of the truck with oil... but the first time I really stood on it and stayed in it for a bit, it popped the dipstick out
 
Has anyone tryed a diverter valve?It is a flap in the tube that only lets air go one way.It will shut when air is pushed on to it.
 
duallyspeed said:
Has anyone tryed a diverter valve?It is a flap in the tube that only lets air go one way.It will shut when air is pushed on to it.
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Pretty much all the exhaust evac kits come with a check valve that screws on the bung thats welded in the exhaust. I acctually hooked a vac gauge up to mine and does pull some vacuum so it at least helps and gives the oil some place to go instead of making a mess.
 
duallyspeed said:
:what:
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If you put a check valve in the breather line to have it close when the exhaust pressure is greater than the crankcase pressure it will find another place to escape.

Forrest mentioned the dipstick as being one place for escape, seals and gaskets will be another. This is true any time that there is more windage in the crankcase than there are places for it to escape.

There are reasons why people building race motors use vacuum pumps.
 
Into the exhaust works just fine if you set it up properly. It needs to be set up to create an aspirator effect. Cut a 45* on a nipple and drill it into the pipe on a 45* also. inlet of the nipple should be toward the front of the truck. Allow the nipple to protrude into the exhaust 3/8-1/2" and it will draw 2-3" of water column at idle. Using a good filter like a Racor CCV and running it into the intake between the filter and the turbo will yield more vacuum but def. need a good filter on it.
 
Forrest Nearing said:
You might be able to do it with a hood stack, but you can't do it on a full length system with the bung in the downpipe. There's too much backpressure in a full system
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you do it in a hood stack and your gonna have a truck covered in oil haha
 
I built my tank today, came out pretty sweet and only cost $25 in fittings. Please, continue the discussion though.
 
shiftycapone said:
What breather? You lost me. The exhaust evac style, or a catch can style? You could use the same style breather, but one would exit into the exhaust and the other into a can. And via what intake man? The inlet on the turbo or?
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I thought some gas turbo motors used a catch can setup that pulled crankcase pressures via this type setup from the inlet, but trapped the oil in the can...
 
I put a commonrail rocker box and valve cover on my and ran the blowby return back into the factory blowby it works out nice, im extreamly happy with this method. I tried to vent the stock vp-44 valve cover and it just made a damn mess and i still have oil comeing out of my stock blowby
 
Does anyone have any pictures of one of these breather/ catch can setups on a common rail? I know I need more ccv on mine, and I don't how I want to do it. The breather on my stock valve cover leaks and I think it is partly due to pressure. Those who are running vaccume pumps, what are you using?
 
Ok, help me out with a couple of the basics here. coming out of the breather on the top of the valve cover there are 2 hoses. Would you just T these and bring them to this catch can? I really like this catch can idea,,, I noticed on the bling bling cover that Joe Hellman built for Rich it has 2 hoses coming out of it too....
 
anyone have an answer for this? Why do we need 2 hoses? Or do we really need to have 2 hoses?
 
I think on the stock cover the large hose is the breather tube to atmosphere and the other is the drain return. I believe that the 2 hoses on the one Joe built will just give you more ventalation and then the drain comes out the bottom of his and hooks in where the smaller stock line goes if I am correct. I may be wrong. I am looking for more info also.
 
boosteddiesel where are you mounting that can at and where are your lines running at? Do you just drain the can after so long?
 
I got a cr cover now also. Gotta run the return somewhere, like back into the factory breather on the timing cover.
 
Did anyone else see the crankcase evacuation pump system that Glacier Diesel Products had up on their sight for awhile? Can't seem to find it now...

--Eric
 
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