Broke my axle pulling the sled...

CumminsPOWER

CumminsPOWER

"I'll go all in."
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
791
Okay now that its broke... I want your opinions is it a waste of money to fix the 70? Theres large metal pieces every where in that diff and axle tube. I'm assuming I'd have to replace all bearings, the carrier w/guts? Also, the right side axle has probably been contaminated as well correct? I've been talking with 97crewcab about buy a DRW 80 he has this weekend, but was wondering if it'd be worth the time and money to get the 70 up and running so I can pull or should I just save my time and money for the 80?

Well, heres the damage so far...

Found this at the bottom of the diff.

547357_10150969062931730_1437969307_n.jpg


Heres what the axle looked like when I pulled it.

599622_10150969063161730_847951517_n.jpg


250741_10150969063081730_846455058_n.jpg


Here is where the tip is.

168545_10150969063686730_1722751057_n.jpg
 
Get the 80 and you'll never regret it. It'll cost more to rebuild the 70 than a used 80 should cost. And with the 70 you will be breaking the axle again.
 
If it's just a axle shaft patch it up until you can afford a 80. It is not a fun job but I bet you can find some used shafts for not to much cash.
 
Well, I thought about that because its not like I'm gonna need that 70 to last a good while.
 
Check the actual diff for play and other problems. They say to replace bearings every time you have it apart, which I'm guessing you need to do to make sure all the metal pieces are cleaned up. It cost me around $200 for all four bearings when I rebuilt mine. I wouldn't replace them if they look good though. Just make sure you have all the shims in the right places. I also like to leave the stabilizer bar in place so the diff gears don't fall right out on you. It makes a good shelf for the gears.
 
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A good used 80 with posi will cost you about 500 bucks plus shipping.. Save for the 80
 
Thanks for the input guys. I am indeed driving down to pick up that 80 from 97crewcab tomorrow. But what I think I'd like to do it while I'm doing this, do things right. I've decided not to pull anymore this year, and just concentrate on building the drivetrain up thru the summer & fall. Then in winter get my headwork done. My question is I was looking at spools to put in the front and rear... mainly because its not street driven and because its cheaper and simple, while giving good traction. It may be a tad over kill for my level of pulling right now, but I rather have more and not need it then have less and need more.


Heres my plan for the drivetrain so far.

Dana 60
- Haisley 35 spline axle conversion kit
- 35 spline spool
- 1 pc. drive shaft
- 1410 yokes & u-joints(including T-case)

Dana 80
- heavy duty 37 spline axles
- 37 spline spool
- 1 pc. drive shaft
- 1480 yokes & u-joints(including T-case)

This should give me room to grow power-wise as my experience improves.
 
CumminsPOWER said:
Thanks for the input guys. I am indeed driving down to pick up that 80 from 97crewcab tomorrow. But what I think I'd like to do it while I'm doing this, do things right. I've decided not to pull anymore this year, and just concentrate on building the drivetrain up thru the summer & fall. Then in winter get my headwork done. My question is I was looking at spools to put in the front and rear... mainly because its not street driven and because its cheaper and simple, while giving good traction. It may be a tad over kill for my level of pulling right now, but I rather have more and not need it then have less and need more.


Heres my plan for the drivetrain so far.

Dana 60
- Haisley 35 spline axle conversion kit
- 35 spline spool
- 1 pc. drive shaft
- 1410 yokes & u-joints(including T-case)

Dana 80
- heavy duty 37 spline axles
- 37 spline spool
- 1 pc. drive shaft
- 1480 yokes & u-joints(including T-case)

This should give me room to grow power-wise as my experience improves.
Click to expand...


I would seriously reconsider putting the spool in the front if you eliminate the CAD system.
 
If you lock the front without a cad or lockouts it makes it almost impossible to drive. Especially if you hang any weight out front. Our detroit with cad delete is way better than our welded carrier and cad from last year.
 
Weld the rear, leave front open. Save your $ dont need the axles from the sounds of what you are doing. Plus its alot easier to replace an axle than something in the tranny or tcase, consider it like a fuse....
 
I had a lincoln locked front end under my 97 for the one pass I ever got with my 4.88's & lockers.....my posi-lok cable for the CAD was a life saver getting around in the pits that night!

I would DEFINATELY keep the CAD if your going to lock the front, and I wouldn't keep the vaccum operated either I would install a posi-lok because if the OEM CAD goes out your gonna be screwed!
 
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