Broken ARP Stud

jacoustics

jacoustics

New member
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
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34
I thought ARP's were the best. I am running a factory turbo with about 32 lbs of boost and I know guys running way more on factory bolts. Makes you think if you should spend all that extra money on studs. After the stud broke of corse my head gasket went bad too.
 

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What did you torque them to? Also, w/ the discoloration did you put any heat on them?
 
I had the same happen on mine... contact Greg Hogue (COMP 461) on here and let him know what happened... He sent me a whole new box to exchange my old set and I didn't even buy them from him!! His service was great!!

Lavon
 
It looks like you had a torch on that one stud? Why are the threads messed up at the top of those two laying beside each other?
 
Mine seemed to hold fine at 60+ psi.. Although a few of them have some rust on them now. Not sure I want to put them back it. Definitely don't like the idea of having to buy new ones! Maybe this time I'll even install them correctly. Back then I was told to bottom out the stud.. ah well, lesson learned.
 
I had it happen also.. had vavles ajusted and pump timing by a freind of mine he drove came back head stud hanging out of insulation in the hood lol got lucky stud came out and head gasket didnt blow
 
I'm also VERY curious to hear what they were torqued to.

Lots of folks recommend going over 125.. I wonder how many of these pictures it would take to convince them to stay with the recommendation.
 
I know that lavon used a push rod and a stick welder, what has everyone else used? Mine has been down since March with no time to work on it, hoping to get started on it after the first off the year. Just wondering how everyone else is getting the broken part of the stud out.
 
Mwyant 00 said:
I know that lavon used a push rod and a stick welder, what has everyone else used? Mine has been down since March with no time to work on it, hoping to get started on it after the first off the year. Just wondering how everyone else is getting the broken part of the stud out.
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Where is it broke off at?
 
stick welder.... stick a large electrode in the hole and weld it to the stud.. pull power off and turn out.. it should chase the threads for you.
 
I torqued them to ARP's spec's about 89 ft lbs with ARP lube and 109 ft lbs with 30W oil for the 12mm studs. and the coloring was from the wire wheel after i removed them. The stud broke about 3/4" above the block. Once the head was off the borken stud came out pretty easy. The stud diddn't break while torquen them it broke months later. And i don't need a snap-on torque wrench I have one!
 
jacoustics said:
I torqued them to ARP's spec's about 89 ft lbs with ARP lube and 109 ft lbs with 30W oil for the 12mm studs. and the coloring was from the wire wheel after i removed them. The stud broke about 3/4" above the block. Once the head was off the borken stud came out pretty easy. The stud diddn't break while torquen them it broke months later. And i don't need a snap-on torque wrench I have one!
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Hmm, The instructions with the 12mm ARP's I just received say to torque them to 122 ft-lbs using the ARP lube. Wondering why there is a 33 ft-lb discrepancy. Has ARP changed the alloy used in the manufacturing process or what?
 
I will call tec. in the morning to find out the spec. I just went by there web site's stud chart. Thank you for the info.
 
Welcome to the club. Had two break on me and when I sent my set in I was told it wasn't an ARP set because 6 were longer than the rest.. LOL....
A-1's from here on out!
 
Lucky Jeff said:
Mine seemed to hold fine at 60+ psi.. Although a few of them have some rust on them now. Not sure I want to put them back it. Definitely don't like the idea of having to buy new ones! Maybe this time I'll even install them correctly. Back then I was told to bottom out the stud.. ah well, lesson learned.
Click to expand...

What is the recomendation on installing the studs? as far as not bottoming them out how much should they be backed off?
 
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