building 2.6 puller

bradhunt1627

bradhunt1627

learning
Joined
Apr 26, 2009
Messages
165
I've been in the process of building a 2.6 puller for about six months and still a long ways to go. but heres what I have done so far.

Engine 1990 block and pistons
block girdle
hamilton cam
oringed head, p&p, 12mm head studs
valve springs, keepers, locks
custom exhaust manifold
custom intake
benched 500cc pump, cds 5k gsk, lz cut d/v's
.093 lines
5x.016 custom injectors
s400 based turbo
probably forgetting something but thats the basics
I got it running yesterday and its running amazing!!
now I gotta move on to the driveline I'm going to keep the d60 front with a locker. swap either a d80 or 14bolt rear what is the best final drive ratio to shoot for?
Tranny probably going to be nv4500 1 3/8 input 271 transfer case. haisley clutch or something equivelent any suggestions on anything greatly aprecciated thanks.
I'll try and get pictures of the engine on here tonight when i get home
 
i would run the d80 with either 4.88 or 5.13 gears and an arb locker. sounds like you've got just about everything covered though. post up some pics
 
Truck is a 1st gen body and frame. front will have leafs instead of coils any suggestions on setting up suspinsion?
 
just block the rear solid, make some traction bars, and a good hitch
 
sb is an option. thats what i had planned for the supension just wasnt sure what affect the front leafs where going to have
 
My vote would be for the haisley clutch, had over 60 hooks on my brothers puller without a clutch issue and quite a few times where we hooked multiple times a night...
 
blocking the rear isnt an option with some pulling associations. i know texas requires 1" of travel at a minimum. if you want to do it right haisley or kennys are great places to start for clutches. cant beat a triple disc. if it is ever going to see a street dont go with a true comp. clutch or blocked rear. just my .02.
 
its strictly a puller. rear blocking is allowed here I am going to build it so that its adjustable incase i go anywhere that doesnt allow the rear to be blocked
 
I'd run 5.13 gears, Kenny's triple disk clutch and you gonna have to make some traction bars for the front diff also. High HP 1st gens seem to have alot of hopping problems without someway to control the front end.
 
give kenneys a call he builds some great cluthes some of the best trucks around run them plus he will stand behind them
 
paul06d-max said:
give kenneys a call he builds some great cluthes some of the best trucks around run them plus he will stand behind them
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X2 I've heard no problems out of Kenny's clutches. SB on the other hand, their triple disks are not holding up very well. Seen several fail multiple times last season with as little as 2-3 hooks on them.


Paul, I know brent is running a Kenny's clutch now, but wasn't he running a SB early in the season? Seems like his truck really came around after the clutch swap IIRC.
 
I'll definately give kenny a call. I'm thinking about going to two leaves in the front to give it a reverse arch. with stops and swapping the shackel to the front that way the traction bars dont limitit spring travel
 
Front leafs will be fine, just run two worn out leafs and one shock mounted on the front and one on the rear of the axle to control it. Let it sit on the front bumpstops. If the springs have too much "spring" it will bounce. Good luck.
 
jneal said:
X2 I've heard no problems out of Kenny's clutches. SB on the other hand, their triple disks are not holding up very well. Seen several fail multiple times last season with as little as 2-3 hooks on them.


Paul, I know brent is running a Kenny's clutch now, but wasn't he running a SB early in the season? Seems like his truck really came around after the clutch swap IIRC.
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Ya he had a sb broke the pressure plate into 5 pieces:doh: and sb wouldnt stand behind pulling in 5th gear so we went to kennys and his clutch holds great, plus it engages alot faster and theres no slipping it.
 
red dodge2 said:
how about a SB dual disk? i plan on putting the 3850 in mine.
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Only if you are a very casual puller and you don't plan on being competitive.

Buddy of mine tore his up in less than one season. SBC was like "hey you guys are running too high a gear", and I was like "so you're supposed to keep your clutch intact by losing all the time?" He's got a triple now, so we'll see how that goes.

SBC is a good company, but their perception of how a competitive pulling truck has to be run, is a bit off. It just seems like they could try to be more knowledgeable and be more proactive than they are. I'm guessing serious puller clutches are a very small part of their biz.
 
SB Has new slipper clutches out now. Look like Haisleys and the others.
 
how much does the kennys or haisleys clutches run? what the best way to go tripple or double?
 
kennys seem to be around $2400-3000 for the triple i dont know for sure i havent called them but thats the prices that im finding on the internet
 
red dodge2 said:
how much does the kennys or haisleys clutches run? what the best way to go tripple or double?
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Kennys triple disk sfi certified runs $2575 plus you'll need up-graded hydraulics $250 and your release bearing arm modded $50 Truck parts, tractor pulling, clutch assembly. Waynesburg, KY, double or triple depends on if you will be driving the truck or not, if you still intend to use the truck as a daily driver you will need a double, triples are great for comp. but daily driver no we have driven ours so as a driver and it will wear your leg out. Its really all on what your doing with the truck kennys also builds a great dual disk if you will be driving it!
 
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