C model PEEC uprate?

BRE

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Is there anything worth doing to a "c" model except going full mechanical?
We're looking to get some more out of our dumptruck and I'd like to go mechanical but I don't see that happening. I'm not as well versed on the ins and outs of what's what on big cubic inch stuff as several of you are. Any help or knowledge would be appreciated.
 
They will probably threaten to burn me alive but my experience is that you have to have the personality module "chip" and it isn't worth the effort of finding one. It runs on an ADEM 1 which is the first production cat ecm.

Monkey Fist Rage
 
They will probably threaten to burn me alive but my experience is that you have to have the personality module "chip" and it isn't worth the effort of finding one. It runs on an ADEM 1 which is the first production cat ecm.

Monkey Fist Rage


So your telling me bad... On with you! Lol
 
So your telling me bad... On with you! Lol

@$&_ with a dinosaur and you end up with dust :)

Junk the fuel system and find a mechanical. Much more rewarding. I would like to see someone hot rod that hybrid system though

Monkey Fist Rage
 
@$&_ with a dinosaur and you end up with dust :)

Junk the fuel system and find a mechanical. Much more rewarding. I would like to see someone hot rod that hybrid system though

Monkey Fist Rage


It's slow as hell to spool and has no power. I'm tired of getting out pulled by our other dumptruck.

I want full mechanical but then I'd probably try to take it to far.
 
I made mine a full mechanical and it runs much better, and gets pretty good mileage considering it is a dump truck on/off highway and pulls a lot of hills. It seems to get between 6.2 and 6.7 at 70,000ish most of the time.
 
It's slow as hell to spool and has no power. I'm tired of getting out pulled by our other dumptruck.

I want full mechanical but then I'd probably try to take it to far.

Find a pump and matching advance and keep your fingers out of it. You have the possibility of doing damage to internals when the PEEC system isn't working right as well.
 
I made mine a full mechanical and it runs much better, and gets pretty good mileage considering it is a dump truck on/off highway and pulls a lot of hills. It seems to get between 6.2 and 6.7 at 70,000ish most of the time.


Mine gets 5.6 usually on the spot. Usually between 65 to 78k and have been all the way to 86k.
 
Find a pump and matching advance and keep your fingers out of it. You have the possibility of doing damage to internals when the PEEC system isn't working right as well.


Not working right as in?

Keeping fingers out of it is my specialty.... As long as I'm happy with it.
 
Not working right as in?

Keeping fingers out of it is my specialty.... As long as I'm happy with it.

They will do the bad things mechanicals can.
If it has a bad bottom end, the pressure transducer is usual the culprit.

Monkey Fist Rage
 
If the timing advance system isn't operating right it is most likely running with the timing retarded. Also if it is not fueling correctly it could be running very lean which could be building heat.

You can get close on your timing by just slamming parts together and setting the timing via the pin method, but if you really want the thing to last with the screws turned then the timing has to be spot on which means getting to a shop that can meter time it.
 
I would say it's in working order it's just that I'm not happy with it. Boss man has never spent any time in it really.

Meter timing would be my plan being if I could find someone around here that knows how to do it.

The only issue that I would be aware of that may not be normal... Is when you start it, it is basically at full throttle until it is started and lopes hard for just a second if it's colder or if it's real cold it will die and you'll have to restart.
 
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Anyone ever tried manipulate the control signal from rack position sensor to ecm with resistor. Like they do with VW diesels. With Bosch EDC systems we just fooled boostsensor, gave maybe 50 more hp.
 
Wouldn't that cause a change in idle speed as it would no longer have the proper rack reading?
 
Anyone ever tried manipulate the control signal from rack position sensor to ecm with resistor. Like they do with VW diesels. With Bosch EDC systems we just fooled boostsensor, gave maybe 50 more hp.


I'm listening... That's sorta what I figured someone had done but from my research, it seems I was wrong.
 
I'm listening... That's sorta what I figured someone had done but from my research, it seems I was wrong.

Boost sensor is internally embedded in the ecm i think? And rack position isn't resistance based. I can find out tomorrow.

Monkey Fist Rage
 
Boost sensor is internally embedded in the ecm i think? And rack position isn't resistance based. I can find out tomorrow.

Monkey Fist Rage


Maybe there is hope... However I'm sure someone woulda already done it by now.
 
The thing you have to remember is that it was a crude system when they designed it, had they set it up to use a mechanical advance and just let the ECM control the rack it may have been less problematic, but there are just too many thing that can go wrong when it starts acting up.
 
The thing you have to remember is that it was a crude system when they designed it, had they set it up to use a mechanical advance and just let the ECM control the rack it may have been less problematic, but there are just too many thing that can go wrong when it starts acting up.


What was their hopes for this system? Fuel mileage I assume?
 
I would guess, probably figured the computer would be better at limiting the variations that come with mechanical controls. They used the system for a while on their stationary Vee engines, but these only have the fuel pump control because they don't have the same style timing advance as the 3406.
 
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