Caltracs vs. Custom Made Traction Bars

i cant believe that the caltracs are giving you guys problems, i have put a few sets on some daily driven trucks, 2 sets on SRT10 Rams and 1 set on a GMC Syclone. the ride was a little bit more ridgid but other than that nothing that was making the vehicle uncomfortable to drive.
 
Boostediesel said:
i cant believe that the caltracs are giving you guys problems, i have put a few sets on some daily driven trucks, 2 sets on SRT10 Rams and 1 set on a GMC Syclone. the ride was a little bit more ridgid but other than that nothing that was making the vehicle uncomfortable to drive.
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The problem is the trucks you just listed are more or less pavement pounders only. If I kept along the lines of wanting to keep my truck lowered for a street/strip effort caltracs would've been the way I went.
 
JFlagg said:
I knew I saved this picture for a reason :D I think you mean like this Nick?
tractionbar1.jpg

Not the greatest picture, but would be easy to make.
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Now this is some slick thinking!!! Does this brackett fasten anywhere aft of the axle centerline or only via the two u-bolts around the pinion portion of the housing?

I was thinking more of a ladder bar which would create lift as the axle rotates upward/toward the back. Perhaps your idea would work also with a bit of forward and aft push as the suspension cycles. Can you give me some details on how this system attaches up front? Does it attach to the same frame piece which runs from one frame rail to the other traveling over top of the gas tank? Fixed mount I take it?

I've not given up on the long single bars just yet either especially after reading up on those gyro joints. Only problem is it doesn't seem you can get them sepearately. Perhaps Jesse at Farmboy Fab would be willing to share but in the interest of keeping business good I'll understand if he wants to keep quiet:)
 
NickTF said:
The problem is the trucks you just listed are more or less pavement pounders only. If I kept along the lines of wanting to keep my truck lowered for a street/strip effort caltracs would've been the way I went.
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I use the caltracs on my DD and it's fine.
 
NickTF said:
Now this is some slick thinking!!! Does this brackett fasten anywhere aft of the axle centerline or only via the two u-bolts around the pinion portion of the housing?

I was thinking more of a ladder bar which would create lift as the axle rotates upward/toward the back. Perhaps your idea would work also with a bit of forward and aft push as the suspension cycles. Can you give me some details on how this system attaches up front? Does it attach to the same frame piece which runs from one frame rail to the other traveling over top of the gas tank? Fixed mount I take it?

I've not given up on the long single bars just yet either especially after reading up on those gyro joints. Only problem is it doesn't seem you can get them sepearately. Perhaps Jesse at Farmboy Fab would be willing to share but in the interest of keeping business good I'll understand if he wants to keep quiet:)
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This is the only picture I have of this set-up... I would think it uses a crossmember for the front mount on the udjustable link, though I think you might have to build it. As far as mounts, I think it is just a tripod in essence. A U over the diff with a u-bolt around each axle tube, then the 3rd leg attaching to the pinion to stabilize it and keep it from wanting to rotate. Add a point on top to mount the tractor link to and your done. You could use a tractor 3rd link to save money or make a link using ballistic joints(best idea).
 
NickTF said:
I've not given up on the long single bars just yet either especially after reading up on those gyro joints. Only problem is it doesn't seem you can get them sepearately. Perhaps Jesse at Farmboy Fab would be willing to share but in the interest of keeping business good I'll understand if he wants to keep quiet:)
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Called about these joints. $250 for a set of four balls with threaded ends, the jam nuts, and the rubber bushing with no housings for the bushings. I'll probably throw this idea out.
 
JFlagg said:
This is the only picture I have of this set-up... I would think it uses a crossmember for the front mount on the udjustable link, though I think you might have to build it. As far as mounts, I think it is just a tripod in essence. A U over the diff with a u-bolt around each axle tube, then the 3rd leg attaching to the pinion to stabilize it and keep it from wanting to rotate. Add a point on top to mount the tractor link to and your done. You could use a tractor 3rd link to save money or make a link using ballistic joints(best idea).
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I see, thanks for digging this up. My get the wheels turning on making something like this.

What happened to the pic it disappeared?
 
I'm fairly new to the diesel world, but have a pretty good background in the 4xx4/offroad side of things. On a rock crawler or other 4x4 that needs a flexy rear suspension guys will usually use an anti-wrap bar (traction bar). Any reason these wouldn't work in a diesel application?

Here's a quick google link of what I'm talking about.

Rear Traction Bar Kit K5 Blazer Chevy GM 4x4 from ORD
 
npe3484 said:
I'm fairly new to the diesel world, but have a pretty good background in the 4xx4/offroad side of things. On a rock crawler or other 4x4 that needs a flexy rear suspension guys will usually use an anti-wrap bar (traction bar). Any reason these wouldn't work in a diesel application?

Here's a quick google link of what I'm talking about.

Rear Traction Bar Kit K5 Blazer Chevy GM 4x4 from ORD
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If you look back through some of my replies and Jflagg's replies that's what we're discussing. The problem is the rear axle differential housings in these trucks are huge and would require a significant offset of the bar on the axle end. Jflagg posted up a pic of a bracket a guy made to go over the diff housing as welding to the diff housing isn't optimal given it's iron.
 
NickTF said:
The problem is the rear axle differential housings in these trucks are huge and would require a significant offset of the bar on the axle end.
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Do you mean it would need to be offcentered? Welding to the center section isn't impossible... Pre/post heat and use a high-Ni rod.

I'm far from an expert on the subject, just throwing out ideas that I've seen work under a slightly different application.
 
npe3484 said:
Do you mean it would need to be offcentered? Welding to the center section isn't impossible... Pre/post heat and use a high-Ni rod.

I'm far from an expert on the subject, just throwing out ideas that I've seen work under a slightly different application.
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Yeah, for the axle side of the anti wrap bar to actually mount to the axle tube the bar would have to be way offset. In this case it would have to be offset toward the passenger side due to the fuel tank on the driver side. I'm a very limited experience welder and only have a mig machine at my exposure. Compound that with the stress the bracket would see if I made it a ladder bar type deal like the picture you sent I just don't like the idea of welding to it.

Ideas are appreciated though man so if you have any more keep em coming:Cheer:
 
my thinking is that you need a long bar if your going to be loading the truck down(with out stops..not sled pulling) i welded the front mount to the frame and the rear mount is bolted to the U bolts befor i built the bars i was busting carrier bearings....since then no wheel hop/axle wrap. still have the same ride. i have sled pulled with out any problems and it's hooked to the gooseneck about half of the time now.

couple pcitures, i will get some of the mounts if you want......
truckladdarbar.jpg

truckladdarbar2.jpg

stuck.jpg


couple other sets i have made
bars.jpg

brina.jpg
 
dsl kicks gas said:
my thinking is that you need a long bar if your going to be loading the truck down(with out stops..not sled pulling) i welded the front mount to the frame and the rear mount is bolted to the U bolts befor i built the bars i was busting carrier bearings....since then no wheel hop/axle wrap. still have the same ride. i have sled pulled with out any problems and it's hooked to the gooseneck about half of the time now.
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Thanks for the info man! Yeah, if you don't mind shoot a pic or two of the axle mount. I'd prefer to mount them via a plate that uses the u-bolts to fasten but as 94 12valve got at the bar would be a little offset with the frame without an offset brackett if I went that rout.
 
I am kind of in the same boat as you Nick, once my truck is running and passes its probation period I will be building a set of bars. Due to the cost of DOM pipe around here I will probably use 1" ID x .125" wall with a full length 1.25" ID x .300" sleeve over it plug welded together in a few places. I am going to weld tabs to the axle housing and run the bars parallel with the rear driveshaft.

You might want to look for the pictures of Wicked Diesel's ladder bars, it used a drop shackle on the frame end, if you replaced that ends rubber bushing with a heim or ballistic joint it should articulate really well IMO but keep any axle wrap at bay...
 
I got some of the Lazarsmith traction bars, and they've worked really well. I don't do much rockcrawling, but when I need the articulation it's there.

Here's some pics in front of the house...

ry%3D400


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ry%3D400


--Eric
 
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