Cam with he351ve

T

Tnspark82

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Aug 13, 2013
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Hi everyone. I have been reading for awhile now n I have gotten to a place with endless searches and no results. I have a 2001 24v, 3.55 gears, 6 speed, he351ve off a 6.7, fleece controller for turbo, 3.5" pusher intake, 3.5" hot side intake, s&b cold air modified a alittle to fit turbo, stock injectors for now, upgraded clutch hydraulics, 600hp fiber clutch(idk if that's exactly right but highest hp fiber clutch we could find), smarty and egde box stack, 165 air dog with draw straw, 4" down pipe into 5" exhaust.

Now my question is what cam??? My friend SixOhh runs a Hamilton n his twined 3rd gen and is very happy with it. I am wanting to do a cam, charge air cooler, head studs, and injectors all at once. I am pretty sure I'm going with industrial injection 85hp stage 2 injectors unless I find out something is better. I do tow a lot with this truck. I am hoping to get close to 450 maybe 500hp at the wheels but if it don't I'm not going to be upset. I am open to good suggestions. I drive the truck empty some but do tow whatever I need to with it. Mpg is not a factor or I would drive a small car. Lol. We will start gathering n a few weeks so I am going to get my research done n parts ordered so I can work I can do it all at once. With the head studs and cam swap everything else will be put new on instead of the old. Also I am running the stock 2gen manifold, I'm not against a manifold but would like to keep the 2gen type to keep from changing everything with my turbo up.
 
At your power level and running a vgt charger, I would leave the stock cam. I would go with a bigger/better injector. Contact Smoke/Weston on here and he will lead you in the right way. A 150hp injector in a 24V is still streetable and towable and will help in spooling that charger more than a cam at this point. Zach builds a great cam and you can call and talk to him, great guy and won't just sell you parts. He will get you what you need.
 
I run a pretty identical setup and I would reccomend getting studs and a drive pressure gauge before you do anything. I think money can be better spent than on a cam with a stock truck, especially with a small VGT. If you are sold on an aftermarket cam, call Hamilton.
 
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I ran an he351ve and fleece controller on my '01 with SDX 150s (7x.010), and it handled them very well
 
In my opinion you have no use for an aftermarket cam. Like others have said spend the money elsewhere. I have a Hami 188/220 cam and I love it, but I'm running a single 72 and 5x.016's so I need all the help I can get spooling it.
 
Thanks guys. I am defiantly doing studs and I will see about a drive pressure gauge. I have fuel pressure, boost, n egts on the pillar. Where would I put the drive gauge and make it looks nice??

Also I would recommend the pusher to anyone that can afford it. Before I was hitting 50psi n now I can get maybe 40psi before it levels out at 35. Also my egts with the comp box all the way up n smarty on 8 would hit 1600 and now only 1250.
 
Buy a 100 psi boost gauge and a single gauge steering colum pod. Move your fuel pressure gauge to the steering colum and stack the boost gauges for quick refdrence. I like to run 10-20 psi more drive than boost. This is where I see the best fuel econ/performance/lowest egt. Pick up a drive pressure particle trap and some stainless line for a heat dicipating coil. Copper compression fittings will warp and leak. Head studs should be high on your priority list. I would avoid using the exhaust brake without them. I would also get a set of valve springs installed if you plan on running it hard. I know I've been over 100psi drive pressure with the brake on when towing. It spikes hard when it comes on when you shift.
 
Thanks mcnamara0851. I took a screen shot of your post n sent it to my mechanic and good friend tony. I should have that done next week. Also I have studs here n ready along with a new head gasket. Tony also told me if I plan on going stupid big with my turbo later on that I could go ahead n fire ring it now. We have plenty of heads here at his shop so the down time would be minimal just the extra cost, bad or good idea?? Like I said before I looking to get a good towing truck n the 450 to 500 rwhp range.

I bought this truck with the he351ve already on the truck. It is basically a frame off restoration. 2 years ago it was a frame on blocks n Tony's shop. I have helped numerous times on this trucks build. Bug John who built it just lost his mind n decided he wanted a brand new truck is the only reason I ended up with it at a sweet deal!!! I have always been a ford guy but after owning n not selling all of my dodge trucks I could defiantly see this truck becoming my daily driver. It already is at this point!! Lol!! I just am looking to finish it with a super right setup with no worries. If I need to ditch the he351ve to be where I want to be I'm cool with that. All that being said in my searches it seems that this hp range with the he351ve is doable and people seem to be happy with it. The only thing is that for towing vs empty light duty towing is a big huge difference on what size injectors to run. Several people same 150hp jners or whatever others say stay smaller with the 85 to 100hp. I really don't want a lot of smoke but I realize you are going to get some with gear shifts.

When I get my studs and drive pressure gauge done what would be to high drive pressure?? I maybe lucky but I have towed extremely heavy with the exhaust brake already. What vavle springs would you guys suggest?? Don't beat me up to bad for this being my first thread and being at a loss on where to go to get to my goal. I have searched and read so much stuff that. I can't decide where to go from here. Also y'all all know that on forums one guys truck will smoke a viper with a lot less than another guys truck with more done to it that only runs a 14 quarter. I don't think that I have a unrealalistic goal just need to know how to get there with what I have. Thanks alot guys your post have already helped us out a ton!!!!
 
I would recommend talking with Zach about your set up and using his valve springs. Just make sure you have plenty of time to talk because you will get an overwhelming lesson on compression rate, nose pressure, seat pressure, coil bind, etc, etc......

I personally don't like fire rings on a daily driven truck, they don't seem to take heat cycles like a o-ringed head will. I have seen both work and both fail, I think installation, driving style, re-torque, all come into effect too.

You aren't asking stupid questions and your post aren't to bearable to read, long but at least they have punctuation in them.
 
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Here's my setup.
reve6uqa.jpg

uvy3une8.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics!! They helped out alot. Tony has got everything otw for the drive pressure gauge.
 
Also guys Tony has a set of 110 vavle springs. He is going to send them to the machine shop to get tested. We should be getting my drive pressure and head studs n a few weeks. When we do the studs we will put some vavle springs n. Tony said if his sprigs aren't good he would get me some new ones
 
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Well I talked to Zach at Hamilton cam today. He is very familiar with my setup and a super nice guy. He recommended a 188/208 cam if any. Also said that for a good clean running truck the 85hp stage two injectors were a good choice. That I could go with a bigger injector if I wanted but would be smoky and have to whatch really close when towing heavy. He reccomended his 103lb vavle springs but told me the used 110lb that tony had would work fine if they checked out ok. Said a charge air cooler was just not a need for with my turbo and hp goal. Also told me the he351ve is not much bigger if any than the stock hx35. That a hx40 was bigger than my turbo.
 
the hx40 has a bigger turbine wheel only. the compressor wheels are the same. imo for the hp goals you are wanting, i would strongly suggest running the 7x.010s.
 
Aight guys in your opinion would they tow well?? If so I will be ordering some.
 
If anyone is ever looking at a cam, give us your consideration. We have different grinds to take your stock cam and change it. Very affordable especially for a daily driver. We also will have steel cores in January. It is all made here in the USA. We grind all the camshafts in house. We even build billet cams for high end pullers, and other parts as well.

Our website is www.nolimitmfg.com or check out our facebook page nolimitmfg
 
Well that would be simple. Just turn my comp box off while towing. Thanks guys for all your help. We will have all our parts here n a few days n Tony said he would order injectors n the morning. All I need then is a rainy weekend to hangout at the shop!! Lol!!!

I really appreciate all of your help n getting this truck done!!!
 
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