Can't seem to make any power???

CorneliusRox said:
Yeah, you need to snake you arm down under brake lines, and then back up behind the pump with a 10mm wrench. There is a lock nut on the bottom (I think the lock nut is on the bottom), and then you adjust the top to adjust idle.
Don't quote me on it because it's been a couple years since I've had to mess with idle.

I wouldn't mes with your idle yet though. Get the OFV on, warm up the truck, and then adjust it.

Putting in your gov springs should have made the idle go up, so it's weird that it went down. That could mean that someone before you tried weird stuff with your gov springs and the idle spring (biggest spring) was from something else.

One more thing to check is your fuel heater. I know on 12V's the heater itself gets too hot, melts the plastic a little, and then they suck air from there. I don't remember if the VP's have the same issue, but it's worth checking out. If nothing else, there's a screen in there that you should clean from time to time (every 50-100k). And make sure your fuel filter is clean too.


Good luck and report back!
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only going in two clicks explains why his idle dropped, tighten the idle adjustment for more recovery which will also raise the idle

i tried everything and learned an aweful lot about adjustment of idle in relation to governor springs etc etc
 
Ok Installed the OFV first impression is that it started right up and I could "blip" the skinny pedal without it going into a chugging fit. Idle is so so. I am gonna drive it to work tomorrow and see how it does driving wise. How tight would you reccomend going? I spun the keeper in by hand until I couldnt tighten it with my finger then went 2 screwdriver clicks on each side.
 
you think my gov springs are too loose and thats why my idle sucks? When I took the old ones off the springs were loose. Right about the same 2-3 click region.
 
I measured mine compared to the old ones. You could try searching for that or setting them to spec.
 
Update: OFV has essentially done nothing and symptoms persist. Ok here is what I have done thus far: Loosened AFC star wheel all the way, Turned smoke screw in 2 turns, removed fuel plate, AirDog 150, tork tek OFV 50hp, verified woodruff key is in shutoff arm and that it is fully open, adjusted idle, 4k GSK set at 2 clicks. WTF... Since I have done the GSK I get a SLIGHT haze under WOT but it clears up as soon as the turbo lights. Still idles horribly when cold its seriously sounds like its sucking air somewhere the way its idling. If you grab the fuel lines you can feel them pulse and can almost hear a fuel knock. Is there anyplace it can suck air besides the feed line? I mean I have new half inch lines and no visible leaks. It's getting very frustrating because every once in awhile when its idling it will come out of it and sound perfect like it should which leads me to believe its either sucking air or my fuel pressure still isnt right,but I guess it wont be right if its sucking air anyways. As soon as Im in the skinny pedal it clears up. My truck should seriously be billowing smoke right now. I want to get to that point and then have to turn it back down! I NEED to figure this out its driving me insane.
 
Ok are these symptoms of way too advanced or too retarded ? New to the timing game. I know these trucks like 19-23 advanced from what Iv read but my truck starts first revolution. I wont be able to afford gauges until next pay period. I have too many bills.
 
I would pressurize the tank and verify there are no leaks in the lines. Have we told you to clean the fuel bowl and delete the heater? Probably... honestly I would just put a new factory Cummins lift pump on it if the lines are good.
 
When you have the afc off the next time, hit it with say 30 psi of regulated air and verify it's traveling. I say your air dog is the problem and it needs to go to scrap and be forgot about for all eternity.
 
Post #26
Bring back the results. Stop changing ****. Do real diagnostics.
 
I will check afc travel this weekend. I'm trying to find a buddy that has a 1/8 npt fuel pressure adapter so I can hook my FP tester up. You think my airdog is bad brand new out of the box??
 
It's possible. That torque tek is the one designed for electric lift pumps right?
 
95yj0645 said:
Ok are these symptoms of way too advanced or too retarded ? New to the timing game. I know these trucks like 19-23 advanced from what Iv read but my truck starts first revolution. I wont be able to afford gauges until next pay period. I have too many bills.
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My P24 liked 30-35* of timing, but you can start at 19 and go from there. Your airdog may be bad. I helped a friend install one and it died in less than 2 weeks. Any cheap oil pressure gauge will work to check fuel pressure.

I'd check the fuel pressure first then do the timing. You don't need any special tools, the cord or degree method will get you close enough. If that doesn't work, take the spring out of the afc or gut it to rule it out. For all we know the PO stuck a large gov spring in there. While you have it off, you can check fuel shutoff operation.
 
95cummins5.9 said:
I would pressurize the tank and verify there are no leaks in the lines. Have we told you to clean the fuel bowl and delete the heater? Probably... honestly I would just put a new factory Cummins lift pump on it if the lines are good.
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Unless he has a 12V cam in there a factory lift pump isn't going to work. I don't like electric pumps, but throwing away a $590 pump with a lifetime warranty doesn't seem like an option for him right now.

OP, try trading for a fuelboss unless you have the 12V cam and can go back to stock.
 
I didnt even think about an oil pressure tester I have one in my box at the shop. I do not have a 12v cam. Electric is my only option. Yes the Tork tek is for electric pumps.
 
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