Its on the slack side of the chain so it shouldnt pull against the tensioner. I would be worried about the hard chain on the steel roller but heck if the guys going to run an open roller chain with a mechincal pump mounted with a flame cut peice of scrap steel. Why not run a 20 dollar tensioner.
Would there be a way to run the tensioner/chain slack so that if it does stretch at higher load/rpm, it would actually advance timing? Kinda like a silver lining?
Kind of related but not really, but I wonder when someone will adapt these new fangled cam phasers to a p pump for dynamic timing. If it's not already in practice.....
BMW uses it to adjust the cams and it works very well. Its called a vanos system and it uses oil pressure to move the cams as needed. It a very slick setup
Ok. I wasn't aware if there was a system or method/technique to move the slack side to other side. I guess it would have to be very complex.If the chain stretches the pump will actually start to retard, the tensioner would just take up the slack in the chain on the back side of the pump.
I would amend that to "it works well, when it works" between the solenoid failures and the eccentric shift sensor going away I'm not overly impressed with the durability of the VANOS system. But like Jeremy said when it's good, it's great. Oh and another vote for a belt of some kind.
OP, pardon my ignorance but why aren't you just broaching a custom gear and driving it off the cam/crank gears? I don't grasp the advantage of going to a belt/chain drive set up.
I know it isn't a ppump but it is a diesel inline pump. saw it on craigslist today.
94 Mercedes S350 diesel
OP, pardon my ignorance but why aren't you just broaching a custom gear and driving it off the cam/crank gears? I don't grasp the advantage of going to a belt/chain drive set up.
Because it's a 6.0 powerstroke and the cam gear is in the rear of the engine. No way short of cutting an access panel in the can to adjust timing. Truck needs about 5 inches of body lift to clear pump to cowl. Also cam sits to low in the block and with the 6.0 valley webbing I would have to run an intermediate gear. This is way easier. I also did try to get a gear broached and couldn't find anyone to do it because of some stupid odd pitch of the gear teeth.