Clipping water pump impeller?

[cummins724]

If you do it on opposite sides of each other you shouldn't have a problem.

he said directly across from each other that should still keep it somewhat even

To me, that sounds silly. If it isn't exactly balanced, you are asking for premature failure. I chose not to clip because I'm a street driver & I tow heavy & need the extra cooling capacity. For a puller, I say go for it.

 

[COMP461]

fe
DO NOT CLIP FINS, the problem is not the water pump , or the engine speed , if that was the case then it would do this with a no boost free rev.
This is a urban myth


The problem is just plain and simple power makes steam. It’s caused by micro steam pocket implosion. This is where you have a lack of water flow, ( wow makes sense to reduce flow even more ) and small steam pockets form around the top of the barrel , and on the exhaust port in the water jacket. If the water is not in contact with the iron, you do not transfer heat. When these steam bubbles collapse, the water phases directly to steam expanding 1800 times.

This is one of the problems in any engine program that makes power, this is true in gas engines as well , you should see some of the water and steam removal lines under the valve covers of Pro Stock Engines .


My solution…….
1st Move more water, over drive the water pump or build a better mechanical water pump impellor. The electric water pumps that go in the stock locations are not really as good as a remote Meziere remote .


Meziere Enterprises


Pro Stock are using 2 pumps


Someone build a good impellor for the stock pump to move more water
Also remove the restrictions such as the thermostats , on a street engine drills holes in eather side


2nd Route water to the hot spots we do this on Chevy 15 degree heads.
Cummins did it on the CR , look at the water lines behind the turbo.
Route water in to different freeze plugs. I did this on Project X for land speed racing.

3rd start cooler , learn to tune for it, any engine makes power on heat differential

 

[halerazor]

fe
DO NOT CLIP FINS, the problem is not the water pump , or the engine speed , if that was the case then it would do this with a no boost free rev.
This is a urban myth

Urban myth busted!!!! this was the reason i clipped the blades i could free rev over 5000rpm and blow the top off the overflow bottle.

 

[halerazor]

To me, that sounds silly. If it isn't exactly balanced, you are asking for premature failure. I chose not to clip because I'm a street driver & I tow heavy & need the extra cooling capacity. For a puller, I say go for it.

i drove it on the street like that for thousand of miles and it is still like that, the guy who bought it pulls almost every weekend out in eastern PA . no vibration or premature failure i wouldn't recommend it unless your going to be turning high rpm, if you are towing a trailer you shouldn't have a 5k gov anyway

 

[COMP461]

Urban myth busted!!!! this was the reason i clipped the blades i could free rev over 5000rpm and blow the top off the overflow bottle.

The over flow bottle, what pressure radiator cap are you running, and have you removed the thermostat restriction, and this is still not enough pressure to blow out freeze plugs .
I have data logged the water pressure in the block and head, in both the Predator Truck and Project X . The race truck had a belt driven stock water pump, the pressure spikes were in the neighborhood of 200 psi when the bubbles collapsed .
One other thing is with a stock thermostat with a cold motor, revving it up is not good either.

 

[halerazor]

The over flow bottle, what pressure radiator cap are you running, and have you removed the thermostat restriction, and this is still not enough pressure to blow out freeze plugs .
I have data logged the water pressure in the block and head, in both the Predator Truck and Project X . The race truck had a belt driven stock water pump, the pressure spikes were in the neighborhood of 200 psi when the bubbles collapsed .
One other thing is with a stock thermostat with a cold motor, revving it up is not good either.

stock cap and thermostat. over 50 pulls with no blown plugs

 

[SledPuller21]

fe
DO NOT CLIP FINS, the problem is not the water pump , or the engine speed , if that was the case then it would do this with a no boost free rev.
This is a urban myth


The problem is just plain and simple power makes steam. It’s caused by micro steam pocket implosion. This is where you have a lack of water flow, ( wow makes sense to reduce flow even more ) and small steam pockets form around the top of the barrel , and on the exhaust port in the water jacket. If the water is not in contact with the iron, you do not transfer heat. When these steam bubbles collapse, the water phases directly to steam expanding 1800 times.

This is one of the problems in any engine program that makes power, this is true in gas engines as well , you should see some of the water and steam removal lines under the valve covers of Pro Stock Engines .


My solution…….
1st Move more water, over drive the water pump or build a better mechanical water pump impellor. The electric water pumps that go in the stock locations are not really as good as a remote Meziere remote .


Meziere Enterprises


Pro Stock are using 2 pumps


Someone build a good impellor for the stock pump to move more water
Also remove the restrictions such as the thermostats , on a street engine drills holes in eather side


2nd Route water to the hot spots we do this on Chevy 15 degree heads.
Cummins did it on the CR , look at the water lines behind the turbo.
Route water in to different freeze plugs. I did this on Project X for land speed racing.

3rd start cooler , learn to tune for it, any engine makes power on heat differential

So your saying remove the thermostat? I was told not to do that, just drill holes in it. I think over-driving the pump would make it worse too.

 

[cummins724]

i drove it on the street like that for thousand of miles and it is still like that, the guy who bought it pulls almost every weekend out in eastern PA . no vibration or premature failure i wouldn't recommend it unless your going to be turning high rpm, if you are towing a trailer you shouldn't have a 5k gov anyway

I'm not saying it won't work, just giving my opinion. I wouldn't do it to my rig & hook to a trailer is all I'm saying.

 

[SMOKIN93]

Listen to halerazor not comp461

 

[getblown5.9]

i clipped mine and put 2 small holes in the thermostat, i cant even get it up to 190 anymore other than at the end of a sled pull run it will hit 200 and then drop back down quick.

on the street it liked to run between 160-180.

 

[COMP461]

Listen to halerazor not comp461

SURE that’s the thought.


What I have learned is from extensive data logging , and 25 years of experience in engine development, and on the engine Dyno’s.
I’ve logged the pressure in the block; head, along with fast responding temperature probes.

I’ve seen the pressure spikes of 100 to 200 lbs and the 200 to 300 degree spikes in water temperature, but you have the audacity to discount what I’m telling you.

The answer is to move more water, and to place that water in the right spots.
To maintain thermal control of the engine
But what could I possibly know

 

[COMP461]

So your saying remove the thermostat? I was told not to do that, just drill holes in it. I think over-driving the pump would make it worse too.

do not remove the thermostate , the restriction is critical to force the water thu the head , you can remove the inner part of the thermostate , or put a restrictor disk inplace.

 

[SledPuller21]

SURE that’s the thought.


What I have learned is from extensive data logging , and 25 years of experience in engine development, and on the engine Dyno’s.
I’ve logged the pressure in the block; head, along with fast responding temperature probes.

I’ve seen the pressure spikes of 100 to 200 lbs and the 200 to 300 degree spikes in water temperature, but you have the audacity to discount what I’m telling you.

The answer is to move more water, and to place that water in the right spots.
To maintain thermal control of the engine
But what could I possibly know

Can I ask why those that run electric water pumps(such as my buddies PS truck) that flow less than the stock pump don't blow freeze plugs? This is gonna be good op:.

 

[NickTF]

i clipped mine and put 2 small holes in the thermostat, i cant even get it up to 190 anymore other than at the end of a sled pull run it will hit 200 and then drop back down quick.

on the street it liked to run between 160-180.

So in your case TJ you saw an overall temperature decrease as shown by the thermostat gauge right?

 

[COMP461]

Can I ask why those that run electric water pumps(such as my buddies PS truck) that flow less than the stock pump don't blow freeze plugs? This is gonna be good op:.

I'll leave that you to explain , you should do a little testing , buy a data logger , get on a engine dyno , then you can give a educated explanation as to why I’m not right.
I take the time to give out pertinent information, and you with the typical my friends fathers, sister’s postman says this. Next time just get straight to what your wanting to say …. Call me a liar.

If someone is revving a cold motor with a closed thermostat, there is no telling what can happen, but that would be on the same mentality as a smoke switch.

On the high end 2.6 engines we are building currently have engineered multiple ways to move water in the block , aimed at the top of the barrels , and on the back side of the exhaust port.

Learn the water paths and budget the water to the spot it’s needed. The stock set up is barely adequate to cool a 350 hp stock engine, much less a 1100 hp 2.6 on kill bullet

Urban myth, before you defend then, just because, you might talk to people that truly understand what is going on.

 

[SledPuller21]

I'll leave that you to explain , you should do a little testing , buy a data logger , get on a engine dyno , then you can give a educated explanation as to why I’m not right.
I take the time to give out pertinent information, and you with the typical my friends fathers, sister’s postman says this. Next time just get straight to what your wanting to say …. Call me a liar.

If someone is revving a cold motor with a closed thermostat, there is no telling what can happen, but that would be on the same mentality as a smoke switch.

On the high end 2.6 engines we are building currently have engineered multiple ways to move water in the block , aimed at the top of the barrels , and on the back side of the exhaust port.

Learn the water paths and budget the water to the spot it’s needed. The stock set up is barely adequate to cool a 350 hp stock engine, much less a 1100 hp 2.6 on kill bullet

Urban myth, before you defend then, just because, you might talk to people that truly understand what is going on.

Well I guess I'll just go with what works that I have first hand knowledge of. I'm not calling you a liar just stating facts that I know, my buddy never clipped the pump, just went to an electric one, motor doesnt get much hotter than 210 or so. Funny the issue went away after...I dont have a data logger, but I'd go by the old saying if aint broke don't fix it.

 

[XLR8R]

No need for hyperbole Greg - just because your essential points are basic tenets of conventional coolant wisdom doesn't mean you can discount any empirical data which appears to conflict with it.

Increasing coolant flow to aid in stripping steam pockets away from the cylinders' water jacket (where most cavitation occurs) can be beneficial, but not necessarily if doing so increases system pressure - which is already inordinately high in CTDs.

Evan's coolant is a better option than pressure-raising flow increases in the effort to reduce steam bubble formation... if they can't be eliminated or held to safe levels, short-circuiting the water pump via a relief valve is a reliable way to prevent overpressure from ejecting freeze plugs in either the block or "soft plugs" in the head.

IMO Cummins has an excellent cooling system - never have seen one in good operating condition that overtaxed it, even at rated power & RPM for hours at a time... any truck you can still drive with a dead water pump (towing excluded ) or 3 gallons HOAT low in August (wanted to hear the "propeller":hehe is confidence-inspiring.

Overfueled CTD Rams are also the only vehicle I've ever been able to hot lap at the strip for hours on end in the Texas heat.

 

[COMP461]

No need for hyperbole Greg - just because your essential points are basic tenets of conventional coolant wisdom doesn't mean you can discount any empirical data which appears to conflict with it.

Increasing coolant flow to aid in stripping steam pockets away from the cylinders' water jacket (where most cavitation occurs) can be beneficial, but not necessarily if doing so increases system pressure - which is already inordinately high in CTDs.

Evan's coolant is a better option than pressure-raising flow increases in the effort to reduce steam bubble formation... if they can't be eliminated or held to safe levels, short-circuiting the water pump via a relief valve is a reliable way to prevent overpressure from ejecting freeze plugs in either the block or "soft plugs" in the head.

IMO Cummins has an excellent cooling system - never have seen one in good operating condition that overtaxed it, even at rated power & RPM for hours at a time... any truck you can still drive with a dead water pump (towing excluded ) or 3 gallons HOAT low in August (wanted to hear the "propeller":hehe is confidence-inspiring.

Overfueled CTD Rams are also the only vehicle I've ever been able to hot lap at the strip for hours on end in the Texas heat.

the Evans Coolant is something I use to like until StringFellow was burned at Bonneville last year with the Mormon Missile , it's now outlawed with lots of lawsuits . It was flammable

a bypass is great for people that can't watch a temp gauge , and rev a cold engine. The engine still needs more coolant flow, this is evident when Dodge put coolant in to the back of the block.

I just get torque off , when I spend time to give out information that is not a myth , but facts that I have compiled in an engineering manor from building high HP high RPM Cummins .
I spent a lot of time on the Predator truck, working thru the myth and the facts.

 

[MissouriHooker]

SURE that’s the thought.


What I have learned is from extensive data logging , and 25 years of experience in engine development, and on the engine Dyno’s.
I’ve logged the pressure in the block; head, along with fast responding temperature probes.

I’ve seen the pressure spikes of 100 to 200 lbs and the 200 to 300 degree spikes in water temperature, but you have the audacity to discount what I’m telling you.

The answer is to move more water, and to place that water in the right spots.
To maintain thermal control of the engine
But what could I possibly know

:homo:
Now you guys know when greg doesnt get his way he cries, cause he has a data logger, and you dont, We all know he knows flow, thats why he runs II pumps:doh: But I dont know anything so dont listen to meoke: