Clutch from hell

StainlessRRA

Advocatus diaboli
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
6,316
Well, as it appears I'll be pulling my trans for the 4th time all over one clutch. First off a few weeks ago I was driving my truck and the hydraulics released and the truck just took off, I got her home and sure enough there was oil coming out of the master. I figured I would just replaced the hydros but when I did the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. We thought the hydros may have been bad and Valair sent me a second set, I put those in and it still won't disengage all the way. Anyone run into this before? I really don't want to pull this thing apart again!


ETA it's an NV5600
 
Is Dan's hydro's all one piece? Master to the slave? Adjustable? Possibly your pressure plate?
 
Is Dan's hydro's all one piece? Master to the slave? Adjustable? Possibly your pressure plate?

Yeah, they are all one piece. It is adjustable, but I've tried that. I've also tried removing the spacer that off the slave. Nothing. You can hear it start to disengage, but it never fully disengages.
 
Sounds like the pressure plate to me, bro. Get your jack and wrenches out.
 
sounds like bent or sticking fingers on the pressure plate maybe...
 
Stupid stuff like pressure plate not seated down flush will do it but that insulting to insinuate that.
 
****. I'd better order one before I tear this damn thing apart. And Roy, it's going on the car hoist at the dealership. Screw a jack!
 
I've dealt with more than one ford that had to have the flywheel shimmed out to get appropriate stroke from the slave for the pressure plate to release.

From my Not-So-Smart phone
 
Umm no don't do that I've had same issue. It's the throw out bearing. I would imagine it is caught up on the trans input somehow.


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I have had a few of the finger type break the arms either way trans needs to come out
 
Just fought disengagement issues with my Southbend triple. Here's what to try. Put a steering wheel puller where the hydros go and run it is as far as you can by hand. After that run it in an additional .875". Then Jack up rear end, start the truck and see if it'll go into gear without moving tires. If tires move you should be able to stop them by hand. This tests hydros. remember to not press clutch of it will junk the hydros. May need to bypass clutch safety switch. Mine is. If you cant stop tires then you have other issues. Other problems may be seized throwout bearing, broken bridge on pp lever. Test that by putting assembled clutch in press and push levers down .875". Should be able to move floaters and disks freely with screwdriver. If not you have a pp issue or warped floater. Everything moved freely except 1 spot on mine. Sent clutch to Southbend to check pp and they said it was fine but I had Warped floaters. Both were warped .050". wish they would have told me to check them to save $200 on shipping. One of my pp levers was lower than the rest thats what concerned me. Once they received the clutch they said the pp was fine. Guess the levers don't need to be even. Good luck. I dropped transmission 4 times to get it figured out. Still not in as I keep receiving wrong parts in mail but I'm confident I got it whooped.
 
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Broke floater plate can cause this and I've also broke the snout off that goes around the input shaft only way to tell is to pull it
 
We can only speculate, doesn't change anything, your gonna have to drop it to find out.
 
^ Don't listen to him, what does HE know about clutches? :hehe:

I think you should just continue to speculate. Try beating on the bell housing with a large hammer; sometimes that works.
 
We can only speculate, doesn't change anything, your gonna have to drop it to find out.

That's the plan. Thanks for the help so far though Dan. I'm gonna owe you a few extra bucks for shipping me a secondary set only to find out something else broke. I've about reached my wits end with frustration, but we'll pull the trans again this week.

^ Don't listen to him, what does HE know about clutches? :hehe:

I think you should just continue to speculate. Try beating on the bell housing with a large hammer; sometimes that works.

While I like the idea I've crossed that point, now I just want to light the whole damn truck on fire.
 
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