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stevenl

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Jan 18, 2008
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alright guys here is the story. my throw out bearing its gone so im just gonna do a cluthc while im in there anyway. the clutch has some miles on it now and is stock. so what are your remomendations for performance clutches. i want something that is still very streetable but will hold power too. something that i can do a litte drag racing on and it will stand up to it. i have heard great things about southbend, but what should i go for. the CON FE or the CON OFE whats the difference? and help and experiance is greatly appreciated.

aslo i have everything in my sig, and i plan on putting a adrenaline on it and some 100-125HP injectors and a turbo eventually. just to let you know.
 
The FE holds more power, but is suppose to engage a little harder too.

The OFE feels like a stock clutch.
 
i think im gonna grab a OFE then. just for pure streetablity. and why do some lutches only work on trucxks with SO motors i cant find one that wiks with my HO motor. why?
 
They have the clutch to work with your HO motor, it's a 13.25 disk vs. a 12.xx disk on the SO. Get the FE if you are going that high with the power and plan to abuse it. I've had both and the OFE only lasted about 30k, best driving clutch of the two, hands down but it will not take the power nor the abuse of the FE.

The clutch in my truck now is an FE, it's shot, pulled it out and the center section is loose, no bueno :( Keep this in mind though, there is roughly 100k of VERY hard service on it too, at least 20k of those miles were towing really heavy loads, a lot faster than I should have. Put it this way, racing a powerstroke pulling a 16ft trailer with a car on it while pulling a 30ft dual tandem GN with a car on it is NOT good on a clutch....but I did win :D

That's what the FE will give you, in return you will have to deal with a clutch that is grabby and makes backing a trailer not real fun, doable definitely, just not enjoyable when it gets in a bind.
 
thats the thing though. i dont want to make driving my truck eeryday a pain in the ass. idnt want it grabby and im not gonna ad tht turbpo and such for a good while most likely. and backing up a trailer i dont want it to be a pain either. whats your opinion on the dual discs. anyone driven one of those. how do they react.?
 
stevenl said:
thats the thing though. i dont want to make driving my truck eeryday a pain in the ass. idnt want it grabby and im not gonna ad tht turbpo and such for a good while most likely. and backing up a trailer i dont want it to be a pain either. whats your opinion on the dual discs. anyone driven one of those. how do they react.?
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If you can afford one, get a dual disc, trust me. I tow 16k+ with my truck & my brother also does the same. We both have Southbend 3600 12cb. & we abuse the crap out of them. I had some clutch trouble & Peter sent me the new 3600 clutch. It feels smooth & pedal pressure feels the same as my old 3250 which he replaced free of charge. A dual disc clutch will last & it will be a different animal than a single. Hardest thing to get used to is the fact that a DD will disengage slower than a single. You will need to press the clutch then shift rather than a single where you can shift as you reach bottom of the pedal travel. Other than that, DD needs revs when pulling out from a stoplight on a hill, if the revs aren't up, the clutch can be grabby.
 
well i dont tow to much. but being mine is an HO will a dual disc bolt right in. i mean a new fly wheel is a must. and how does the dual disc stack up against an OFE ? and for a DD upgraded hydros are a must correct?
 
stevenl said:
well i dont tow to much. but being mine is an HO will a dual disc bolt right in. i mean a new fly wheel is a must. and how does the dual disc stack up against an OFE ? and for a DD upgraded hydros are a must correct?
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My other brother has a OFE in his 98.5. That clutch is very smooth, just like stock & holding up well to Adrenaline/RV275 injectors. A Dual disc is the way to go if you are gonna tow often with 500hp, a OFE just isn't gonna last with that kinda power. Yes, A DD will bolt right in, but you will need to remove a washer from behind your pivot ball on the clutch fork. Upgraded hydros are highly recommended on a 3250 & a must have with a 3600.
 
Billysgoat said:
They have the clutch to work with your HO motor, it's a 13.25 disk vs. a 12.xx disk on the SO. Get the FE if you are going that high with the power and plan to abuse it. I've had both and the OFE only lasted about 30k, best driving clutch of the two, hands down but it will not take the power nor the abuse of the FE.

The clutch in my truck now is an FE, it's shot, pulled it out and the center section is loose, no bueno :( Keep this in mind though, there is roughly 100k of VERY hard service on it too, at least 20k of those miles were towing really heavy loads, a lot faster than I should have. Put it this way, racing a powerstroke pulling a 16ft trailer with a car on it while pulling a 30ft dual tandem GN with a car on it is NOT good on a clutch....but I did win :D

That's what the FE will give you, in return you will have to deal with a clutch that is grabby and makes backing a trailer not real fun, doable definitely, just not enjoyable when it gets in a bind.
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What kind of power are you making?
 
Phily 911 said:
What kind of power are you making?
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Not nearly enough :bang :bang


Been a while since I dyno'ed, but the last one with the DD settings was right around 340ish on the HP and a touch over 8 bills on the Torque. Well within the power range of the clutch yes, but did I mention I tended to abuse it? LOL LOL
 
Billysgoat said:
Not nearly enough :bang :bang


Been a while since I dyno'ed, but the last one with the DD settings was right around 340ish on the HP and a touch over 8 bills on the Torque. Well within the power range of the clutch yes, but did I mention I tended to abuse it? LOL LOL
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I was just curious. I never dog anyone for the power they make. Must everyone makes more than me.
 
I have a 3600 dd,I really like it. It hooks really hard and never slips but is a little grabby at times.
 
Phily 911 said:
I was just curious. I never dog anyone for the power they make. Must everyone makes more than me.
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For what I have done to the truck I'm happy, just a small set of sticks and still on the stock turbo and 226k VP LOL Also the dyno was with the 19.5's on there, add about 10HP if they were off and a lighter tire in their place.


Back to the clutch question at hand...

Stevenl, I had no major issues with the grabbiness of the clutch in just driving around, it only became a real issue with a heavy trailer behind the truck and only then when backing. With a lower overall gear ratio it wouldn't be as bad. The 265/70 R19.5's I ran for pretty much the life of the clutch are a true 36 inch tall tire, add 3.54 gears to this and that's a pretty steep ratio to get 16k moving in reverse. Drop it in 4 lo and the problem is solved though. My next clutch (hope to order next week) will be a dual disc, which exact one remains to be seen pursuant to talking with Peter and getting his opinion. I will say this, look at what you have now, decide where you are going to go with the truck power wise, what you will be doing with it, and choose from there.

Support the power, then make it. Much cheaper to do it right the first time around.

Hope this helps.
 
I have never had trouble backing heavy trailers, but if you find it too jumpy...you can always put a 2wd low switch on the dash.
 
Billysgoat said:
For what I have done to the truck I'm happy, just a small set of sticks and still on the stock turbo and 226k VP LOL Also the dyno was with the 19.5's on there, add about 10HP if they were off and a lighter tire in their place.


Back to the clutch question at hand...

Stevenl, I had no major issues with the grabbiness of the clutch in just driving around, it only became a real issue with a heavy trailer behind the truck and only then when backing. With a lower overall gear ratio it wouldn't be as bad. The 265/70 R19.5's I ran for pretty much the life of the clutch are a true 36 inch tall tire, add 3.54 gears to this and that's a pretty steep ratio to get 16k moving in reverse. Drop it in 4 lo and the problem is solved though. My next clutch (hope to order next week) will be a dual disc, which exact one remains to be seen pursuant to talking with Peter and getting his opinion. I will say this, look at what you have now, decide where you are going to go with the truck power wise, what you will be doing with it, and choose from there.

Support the power, then make it. Much cheaper to do it right the first time around.

Hope this helps.
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thanks alot definetly helpped
 
Phily 911 said:
What needs done to allow for a double disk?
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Give SBC a call. not sure what's involved with the older trucks. For a 3rd Gen, all parts are included, and all you need to "modify" is remove a washer from other side of the throwout barring lever deal.
 
I'd look at Valair clutches as well.

I've been very happy with mine, and Dan is GREAT to deal with.
 
JasonCzerak said:
Give SBC a call. not sure what's involved with the older trucks. For a 3rd Gen, all parts are included, and all you need to "modify" is remove a washer from other side of the throwout barring lever deal.
Click to expand...

I was just curious again. I already put a SB Clutch in my truck. Not doing it again. :doh:

Even if I don't end up selling I still won't add anymore power even though the SB is suppose to be alright with a chip and injectors.
 
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