clutch not releasing

injected79

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Dec 2, 2007
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Hello, i was running the big single south bend 550 con-fe i beleive is what it was called, last month i was hooking it and i welded the clutch disk, flywheel, and pressure plate together. So i order a 3600 dual disk from you guys. We had a few issues at first getting the correct parts for my truck, but we got figured out.
Now that i have it all back together the clutch will not release completly. I have changed the slave and master cylinder to rule both of those out, and it was a pre bleed system also. It seems like it will come and go, for instance when i first installed the new hyd. system, i jumped in the truck fired it up and it went right in gear, a little harded then normal but not bad. I drove about 3 tenths of a mile and stopped went to go back in gear and it would not. If i start the truck in gear and hold the clutch it will not drive away but i also cant take it out of gear with-out alot of force most of the time.
ANy ideas? :bang
I also have this posted in the south bend forum, but i figured peter wont be on here till the begining of the work week. an di was hoping to get this figured out by then.
 
I let a buddy pull with mine while I was in the sand box, he slipped the clutch for the entire pull and I had the same issues as you do even with a new clutch, it turned out that things had gotten so hot that the wishbone that connects the slave cylinder to the throwout bearing had bent, so it was no longer releasing the throwout bearing. I would almost guess that is what happened to you if lyou got things hot enough to weld together.
 
I let a buddy pull with mine while I was in the sand box, he slipped the clutch for the entire pull and I had the same issues as you do even with a new clutch, it turned out that things had gotten so hot that the wishbone that connects the slave cylinder to the throwout bearing had bent, so it was no longer releasing the throwout bearing. I would almost guess that is what happened to you if lyou got things hot enough to weld together.

I never thought about that arm, it didnt look to be when i had it out but its something else to check out, the pilot bearing is brand new so i wouldnt think that would be the issue.
 
O i forgot to mention that i made an adjustment under the dash to where i could pick-up about another 1/2 inch of travel on the slave cylinder, and that didnt do anything to help get it into gear, but after/if you got it in gear with this adjustment, with the clutch depressed, it made a weird noise, not a grind but but a squal something in the middle. Kind of hard to explain the noise it made. But since it didnt work I took it back to the stock location.
 
mine is doing the same thing! i wonder if the floater plate is moving freely, thats what i think is porbably wrong with mine! just havent had time to pull it yet! let us know what you come up with and I'll do the same
 
the throw out bearing is also new

Also it it shifting fine just hard to get into reverse/1st or 2nd?
does it start engaging right at the bottom, then stop, then towards the top full engage?
Jump a little when you finally get into gear, but not keep rolling?

this is basically what mine is doing
 
Also it it shifting fine just hard to get into reverse/1st or 2nd?
does it start engaging right at the bottom, then stop, then towards the top full engage?
Jump a little when you finally get into gear, but not keep rolling?

this is basically what mine is doing


Real close, mine starts engaging right off the bottom, but it doesnt start then stop, then start like you were saying. After it begins to engage it engages what i would consider normal.

And when you first try to get it in gear, you have to jam it into gear most of the time and it jumps pretty hard one way or the other depending on the gear 1st, 2nd or reverse. BUt then sometimes after you get it into gear say second i can hold the clutch down and wait a second and i can put the truck into any gear with out a probelms as long as i dont go back to neutral for more than a second or two
 
I would bet the front disk is turned the wrong direction. The splined section is offset not centered and if it is put toward the front instead of the rear it will press on the flywheel not allowing it to fully disengage or engage. I learned the hard way by wasting a day tearing it apart just to turn a disk.
 
My flywheel is also new. and when i put it together the disk were labeled as which facing went towards what part, either the flywheel or the pressure plate. BUt that doesnt mean that somebody didnt made a mistake when labeling the clutch and put the stickers on the wrong side............i know its a long short but who knows.
 
My flywheel is also new. and when i put it together the disk were labeled as which facing went towards what part, either the flywheel or the pressure plate. BUt that doesnt mean that somebody didnt made a mistake when labeling the clutch and put the stickers on the wrong side............i know its a long short but who knows.

mine was the same as above! i guess i should state that mine didn't do this right after I first installed it! it started and I thought it was the hydros so I replaced them and no change!
 
Mine ran fine for about a week until i finally got on it and it slipped, now i have a 3850 12cb with about 5k miles on it and 6 hooks and the motor was only at about 400hp. 2 days later it started getting hard to get into gear and making that weird squel grind noise. I thought it was another set of hydros, I went through 2 sets in 2 months a year ago. Checked everything i could hydros were fine so pulled the tranny. Sure enough i could see metal shavings on the end of the input, it had eaten part of the spline out of the front disk. That is why it ran fine for a week or so is because it was still engaged in the front disk until i got on it and chewed the edge of the spline up.
 
Just an update

Well i have talked to peter a few times today, he has me checking things off 1 by 1 before i pull the transmission again. I did lengthen the length of the slave cylinder rod, i didnt pick up anything. Peter said by doing that the slave would just "reset" itself, and to make the adjustment under the dash with the rod going to the master cylinder. I done this the other day, and when in gear and clutch depressed is when i was getting the weird zipper like sound.
 
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