Clutch recommended for around 500+hp?

12huserr

12huserr

Cummins TSS
Joined
Jan 19, 2012
Messages
25
I just recently bought my first cummins second gen 98 w/NV4500. It was virgin 12 valve with low milage so I purchased it without hesitation. I did all the upgrades to it and ended up starting the occasional clutch slippage. I want to start looking for a clutch before I get a fuel plate.

I am looking for a clutch that will handle around 500hp but will have room for me
to work with if I do a few more upgrades in the future. All my buddies tell me that I should go for a southbend dual disk that is rated for 550hp and 1100fpt.
I was kinda wanting a single disk so I don't have to upgrade hydraulic assembly.
Anyone have any pointers??
 
you mean before you throw away the fuel plate.

and you can't go wrong with Valair.

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Single will be jerky and as it has been stated, Valair is good just the same. A street dual disk from Dan doesn't require hydraulics.

Also a very good thing to keep in mind, you can over clutch a truck and wear it out just as quick as under clutching a truck.
 
you can also use a southbend 3250 double disk. Ive got it in mine and it know if holds 700hp 1400ft/lbs
 
Love my 3250 from south bend

W. Zacherle on the text machine using Tapatalk
 
I have a SB 3600 lever style DD in my dually and a 3250 diaphragm style in my 2500. You wouldn't need hydraulics for diaphragm style. Mine is a little jerky backing up a trailer, but compared to the FE single disc clutches I've driven, mine is much closer to OEM. I wouldn't bother considering a single disc.
 
madmikeismad said:
you mean before you throw away the fuel plate.

and you can't go wrong with Valair.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Oh yeah. Ha. Forgot about losing the fuel plate. I bought a #5 and ran it but the
clutch really started to go after that so I put the stock one back in. I have been told Valair was the way to go too.
 
I'm sure whatever clutch I get I will be alright. Everyone seems to have no trouble with the Valair or the southbend. I was told to make sure I upgrade input shafts as well while I got everything apart. Should I do an output shaft?
 
12huserr said:
I'm sure whatever clutch I get I will be alright. Everyone seems to have no trouble with the Valair or the southbend. I was told to make sure I upgrade input shafts as well while I got everything apart. Should I do an output shaft?
Click to expand...

No output shaft upgrades on a manual...
 
i dont have issues backing a trailer with mine either, and it hardly ever gets unhooked. I would do the upgraded hydraulics.
 
Just do the hydraulic upgrade. Its insurance of not getting stranded out of town like I did.

I recommend any southbend clutch. I now have the 750hp street/sled dual disk. Can it be grabby backing up? Sure. You can also run it so it isn't grabby and be a joy to pull trailers.
 
99GreenCummins said:
Just do the hydraulic upgrade. Its insurance of not getting stranded out of town like I did.

I recommend any southbend clutch. I now have the 750hp street/sled dual disk. Can it be grabby backing up? Sure. You can also run it so it isn't grabby and be a joy to pull trailers.
Click to expand...

Mine would be smoother if it was 4wd and I could use 4low. It is still a bit smoother than the previous single I had.
 
Instead of buying the upgraded clutch hydros we just bought a couple of THESE and a braided stainless an3 or an4 line to go between the master and slave. It worked on our puller all season for about $50.

Cheap way to get rid of the plastic line, unless you really need the adjustable rod.

I recommend Kenny's to people when I ask. I think he has good products at good prices.
 
Cant go wrong with SBC. Ive installed dozens of them with zero issues. Customer service is second to none. Do yourself a favor while you got your tranny out and put a tack weld on 5th gear retaining nut or buy the upgraded nut. You'll thank yourself 100k down the road.
 
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