Commonrail race engine suggestions

smokeblack13 said:
What does a set of Darton sleeves normally run? Also you recommend a deckplate with this application?
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The last time I bought them I think they were about $55 a piece. No deck plate needed in your application.
 
I'm building a 06 as well. 14mm mains, 4.0556" bore, block is done, weighing different options for a rotating assembly.
 
We usually recommend Carrillo rods up to 1200 HP, and our rod past that. We have seen more issues with monotherm pistons than we do with stock GENUINE CUMMINS pistons in these applications, they are my recommendation for these applications. The forged piston will wear quickly in the ring groove on a street truck, causing ring sealing issues. We install our girdle with 9/16 main studs in the bottom and cam bushings for added insurance. The next weak link is the bores in the block and the only good fix for that is a 6.7 block with deck plate and sleeves if you want 6.7 bore size or sleeve down to 5.9 bore without deck plate. Hope this helps you guys out. This is just my experience over they years, and there is more than one way to skin a cat.
 
D&J Precision said:
We usually recommend Carrillo rods up to 1200 HP, and our rod past that. We have seen more issues with monotherm pistons than we do with stock GENUINE CUMMINS pistons in these applications, they are my recommendation for these applications. The forged piston will wear quickly in the ring groove on a street truck, causing ring sealing issues. We install our girdle with 9/16 main studs in the bottom and cam bushings for added insurance. The next weak link is the bores in the block and the only good fix for that is a 6.7 block with deck plate and sleeves if you want 6.7 bore size or sleeve down to 5.9 bore without deck plate. Hope this helps you guys out. This is just my experience over they years, and there is more than one way to skin a cat.
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How much power are the 6.7 sleeved down to 5.9 without deckplate good for?
 
Monotherms I have seen bad bore wear. Gauling in the wrist pin bores. Wear on the piston below the top ring. And they are heavy 300 grams more than stock if I remember right.
 
D&J Precision said:
Monotherms I have seen bad bore wear. Gauling in the wrist pin bores. Wear on the piston below the top ring. And they are heavy 300 grams more than stock if I remember right.
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I agree on the bore wear, even to the point of cracked cylinders. I also had gauling in the wrist pin bores. The Darton racing sleeves seems to fix the bore wear and reduce the chance of cracking the cylinders. I do not have a solution for the gauling.

WristPin_zpsc0ef17a7.jpg
 
paulb said:
I agree on the bore wear, even to the point of cracked cylinders. I also had gauling in the wrist pin bores. The Darton racing sleeves seems to fix the bore wear and reduce the chance of cracking the cylinders. I do not have a solution for the gauling.



WristPin_zpsc0ef17a7.jpg
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How many passes were on these? Are other people experiencing this as well?

From what I've gathered if truck is going to be driven on the street at all then forged Pistons are out of the question due to the ring lands not holding up.

Monotherms are going to be alright for some street driven use but can experience galling and cylinder wear.
 
paulb said:
I agree on the bore wear, even to the point of cracked cylinders. I also had gauling in the wrist pin bores. The Darton racing sleeves seems to fix the bore wear and reduce the chance of cracking the cylinders. I do not have a solution for the gauling.

WristPin_zpsc0ef17a7.jpg
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By the looks of it you modified the pistons and drilled the skirts the same way I did so the oil squirts on the inside?

P1030445-Copy.jpg


I've always ran Royal Purple 20W-50 and my pins look like new, not even the slightest mark that would distinguish my used pins from brand new. Pretty sure it hasn't been an issue for Torrey and crew either. Not much help there.
 
The newer Monotherms come already drilled, so I didn't have to modify the piston, just the oil squirter to clear the pin boss. I sent the piston and pin to Mahle, they did have any suggestion either. The did say that they didn't think it was an oiling issue, because of the DLC coating on the pin. Not sure what else it could have been. We'll see on the next tear down.

Paul
 
We are working on a solution to the ring land wear on forged pistons hope to have something to test this month. As they are they will not work on the street. Best we have had is the Genuine Cummins pistons.
 
Supposedly the wiseco forged pistons are good for street use.
 
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