Copper hard line for oil feed.

don't use copper!!!! just use regular old brake line... works awesome. the old Ford 2.3 turbo motors used brake line
 
You are talking oil pressures of 100psi and less. There is some heat being a factor. I would bet you would use PVC and it would still hold. I wouldn't try it, but I bet it would work.
 
The worst that could happen is it could burst and you could turn into a fireball and slam into a truck full of liquid hydrogen while crossing a bridge over a river full of cottonmouths. I say go for it.
 
RonA said:
The worst that could happen is it could burst and you could turn into a fireball and slam into a truck full of liquid hydrogen while crossing a bridge over a river full of cottonmouths. I say go for it.
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Wow! Easy on the dramatics! I could have done without the cotton mouths.
 
We use stainless and Swagelok compression fittings on all the engines at work...from lawnmower single cylinders to Series 60s and DD15s. The only time we've ever had a problem is using 1" tube with a heavy probe on the end.

Another option if you're going for looks, is have Royal Brass and Hose make up a line for you. They have stainless braided teflon, and can put whatever ends on it that you need. Price isn't that bad.

If you want to go the stainless hard tubing route with fittings, lemme know, and I'll hook you up. I think I've got enough laying around for you to do what you want.

--Eric
 
ENafziger said:
We use stainless and Swagelok compression fittings on all the engines at work...from lawnmower single cylinders to Series 60s and DD15s. The only time we've ever had a problem is using 1" tube with a heavy probe on the end.

Another option if you're going for looks, is have Royal Brass and Hose make up a line for you. They have stainless braided teflon, and can put whatever ends on it that you need. Price isn't that bad.

If you want to go the stainless hard tubing route with fittings, lemme know, and I'll hook you up. I think I've got enough laying around for you to do what you want.

--Eric
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What is involved in the stainless lines? I think I would prefer that over anything. Wanting to stay away from braided lines for cosmetic reasons.
 
What is involved in the stainless lines? I think I would prefer that over anything. Wanting to stay away from braided lines for cosmetic reasons.
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It's 316 stainless tubing, bends easily with a hand held tubing bender up to 1/2". Larger diameter than that is a little tricky to bend. The fittings are 2 ferrule compression fittings that can be taken on and off many times. Pressure rating depends on tube size, but for 3/8", I think it's around 8,000 psi or so.

--Eric
 
SSpeeDEMONSS said:
would it be bad to anneal it?

Garrett
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If you buy the soft coil, that's annealed out of the box.

The hard drawn tube can be annealed dead soft with no issues.

Vibration will work harden the tubing slowly, so if you start off dead soft, that's probably the best thing you can do.
 
ENafziger said:
It's 316 stainless tubing, bends easily with a hand held tubing bender up to 1/2". Larger diameter than that is a little tricky to bend. The fittings are 2 ferrule compression fittings that can be taken on and off many times. Pressure rating depends on tube size, but for 3/8", I think it's around 8,000 psi or so.

--Eric
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You will have a PM shortly.
 
CTDs have a unique - and harsh - harmonic environment.
For comparison, tubing hard-mounted to the block or head:
aluminum lasts for days
copper last for weeks or months
stainless (304) lasts for years

Mild steel should last the longest before work-hardening induced failure.

Coiling the tube to allow flex w/o deformation works the best, but doesn't have the same aesthetic as routed hard line (which should be Adel-clamped for longevity).
 
I was wanting to use something similar to injection line clamps but, I can't find them for sale. May just make the damn things
 
Twin-Series-Plastic-Pipe-Clamp-DIN3015-Part-3-.jpg
 
i honestly dont know where to get them or what they are called.

we used them at power cover to anchor all the hydraulic lines
 
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