cost of building a 2.8 truck

seeker1056 said:
I am curious - if a motor like that is makin around 1100 hp at 5000 rpm what does it make down around the 2800 3000 rpm or so mark where these motors seem to make thier maximum power
Click to expand...

Melted pistons
 
Personally, I believe that to get the cheapest, best built truck out there you have to do it all your self, and thats right from building the engine to the paint and body work. It all adds up very fast but if you can do most everything your self you will come out ahead. Sure, it will take you longer, but its a better feeling than paying someone else to do it and then trying to run them down afterwards when someone goes wrong!

Ryan
 
RyanB said:
Personally, I believe that to get the cheapest, best built truck out there you have to do it all your self, and thats right from building the engine to the paint and body work. It all adds up very fast but if you can do most everything your self you will come out ahead. Sure, it will take you longer, but its a better feeling than paying someone else to do it and then trying to run them down afterwards when someone goes wrong!

Ryan
Click to expand...

I agree with you for those that know how to do a build, but many don't have the knowledge, tools, or time to do it.

That's when a big Piggy Bank helps.


I did everything on my 80 puller except for the rotating assembly (didn't have the tools to line bore, hone, or balance my reciprocating assemlby) and paint/bodywork (unless it's Krylon I can't handle it :kick:).


It has won many pulls and even a couple championships. I spent a TON of money on the truck (mostly cosmetic and interior creature comforts). As far as money spent to make it a puller, I saved HUGE money by doing things myself (axle upgrades, ring and pinion swaps, blowshields, traction bars, tranny rebuild, chassis setup, etc.). If I paid to have it done my wallet would be empty.

As to the post of 2.8 build cost.... A really strong 2.6 and a 2.8 would be similar in cost as the engine, tranny, fuel system, and drivetrain need to be built to take the abuse (stock won't do, so upgrades are inevitable nomatter which way you choose). There may be a few items that aren't 100% necessary for a 2.6 or a little cheaper, but not by much.

Alot will depend on what vehicle you start with and if you include purchase price. After purchase price of a vehicle (assuming bone stock), the average Joe is looking at 20K to 30K (or even higher) to be competitive with a DMax. Not sure how comparable a bone stock Cummins truck build would be.

You can cut corners and save money doing things yourself or waiting for things to blow before replacement, but in the end it's still VERY expensive.

I still think an addiction to heroine would be cheaper for me than my trucks :hehe:
 
RyanB said:
Personally, I believe that to get the cheapest, best built truck out there you have to do it all your self, and thats right from building the engine to the paint and body work. It all adds up very fast but if you can do most everything your self you will come out ahead. Sure, it will take you longer, but its a better feeling than paying someone else to do it and then trying to run them down afterwards when someone goes wrong!

Ryan
Click to expand...

Also consider starting with a high mileage or salvage truck rather than a brand new crew cab and then ***** that it costs too much to compete. :bang
 
Me and a buddy of mine are building a new engine for his 2.8 truck right now and a rough est. is 14k in his motor thats including pump injectors turbo and machine work.
 
it is a DMAX, cut's his own heads, pistons, rods. here's a hint sounds like a detroit for the first 25to 50 feet. has pulled in the open [2 turbo aloud] his is a single on dot's. placed 1 2 3 4. has broke at 300 and still coasted to 2 &4. 312 316 no BULL****
 
cmtpullin said:
it is a DMAX, cut's his own heads, pistons, rods. here's a hint sounds like a detroit for the first 25to 50 feet. has pulled in the open [2 turbo aloud] his is a single on dot's. placed 1 2 3 4. has broke at 300 and still coasted to 2 &4. 312 316 no BULL****
Click to expand...

Oh ya... Well I did a double back flip on my 4bt powered mx bike!
 
how competitive would a 2.6 truck be..lets say a 97 12v 5 speed, DD clutch, S400, 5x18's, flowed and calibrated 12mm pump, fuel lines, airdog, valve springs, head studs, ported head. this is what i would like to start off with when i get my 97. how competitive would this be? i know it prolly wont be to competitive at a big event like ts or scheid but just for going to the local pulls and maybe hitting a couple big ones every now and then but mostly for a fair puller.
 
red dodge2 said:
how competitive would a 2.6 truck be..lets say a 97 12v 5 speed, DD clutch, S400, 5x18's, flowed and calibrated 12mm pump, fuel lines, airdog, valve springs, head studs, ported head. this is what i would like to start off with when i get my 97. how competitive would this be? i know it prolly wont be to competitive at a big event like ts or scheid but just for going to the local pulls and maybe hitting a couple big ones every now and then but mostly for a fair puller.
Click to expand...

probably about 3rd place in our local pulls maybe 2nd, depends on who shows up. That was 2009, sure 2010 would probably drop another place
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top