Couple Motorhome questions

morkable

morkable

Just Over Broke
Joined
Jan 30, 2008
Messages
5,956
I recently purchased a 2003 Holiday Rambler 40 footer, with a 400 Cummins ISL engine and the Alison 3000 tranny. Anyways, couple questions,

Dose anyone happen to have a part number for a muffler for this?

As this unit has basicall a VP44 Caps fuel system, is there any mods that I can do to it to increase fuel mileage, maybe a little extra power?

Who all other than Banks makes a Pyro for this? All regular Pyrometers have way too short of leads, I would need leads minimum 45 feet.

THanks

Kevin
 
I'm quit certain you can buy thermocouple extensions. It is basically two longer wires that you just bolt to the end of the sensor wires and then tie the other ends to the meter. It may be a tad off at that length, but what is 5 degrees at 1000F? Just ask any vendor for extensions.

You just need to know what type your t-couple is.

Amazon.com: AEM 30-2066 K-Type Thermocouple Wiring Extension Kit:
 
So, if I remember correctly there are 2 types, J and K right? I noticed that those ones were 10 feet, do you think that it might be a considerable drop if you go 40 or 50 feet?
 
What is the maximum length of thermocouple wire?
There are many factors that can impact the usable length of a thermocouple. As a guideline, under 100 feet with 20 AWG or thicker wire in an area free of electromagnetic interference usually is fine. Two of the main factors in determining useable thermocouple length are total loop resistance and preventing electrical noise getting into the signal. Because different thermocouple wires are made of different materials, the resistance will vary based on the type as well as the wire diameter and length. The allowable loop resistance is affected by the input resistance of the amplifier circuit to which it is attached. But as a guideline, typically the objective is to keep the total loop resistance under 100 ohms. Loop resistance is determined by multiplying the length in feet by the resistance per double feet (remember 1 foot length of run includes 1 foot from each of the two t/c wires) as shown in "Resistance Vs Wire Diameter" table for thermocouple type and gauge. Remember in your calculations to include the probe (when used/applicable) in addition to the wire length. The second major factor in running a thermocouple wire is to keep it away from any electromagnetic fields. Thermocouple wire creates a low voltage signal and should not be run near power wires, motors, etc. To help minimize noise pickup, a metal over braid or twisted shielded wire is commonly used.

From: http://www.omega.com/prodinfo/thermocouplewire.html
 
Nice catch. I found on ISSPRO's website that they offer thermocouple leads up to 50 feet, which should work just fine.. Thanks so much for the help!

Now for the other questions,, LOL
 
I'll bet it's just a CAPS pump...never heard of any VP44's on ISL's.

TS has this AGRI-Power

Looks like 98-05 Cummins with CAPS is part number 2110301


Other than that, Extrude Hone the injectors...a 400hp ISL probably already has the biggest factory sticks.


Maybe Snedge will chime in as well...
Chris
 
yeah, caps pump, i meant to say it is like a vp44, not that it is a vp44... and even then I could be on the wrong path.
 
According to that though it is for the 8.3 L, I believe that mine is the 8.9L,, would that be different?
 
Not electronics wise...At least not that I can think of. ISM and ISL is the same block IIRC, just bigger bore and stroke.

I'd bet it would work.
Chris
 
Hey Kevin. Just PM me or post up the ESN of that beast and I'll tell you everything you want to know. Does it need more power? How much have you run it?
The ISM and ISL are not the same block. The ISL is more closely related to the C series if anything. Just a slightly larger bore. Good engine. The fuel CAPS fuel isn't bad either, but it really like clean fuel. You will not be hurting yourself if you spend a little extra on some lubricity additive to treat the tanks with.
 
morkable said:
I will do that, Where is the ESN on the engine?

Thanks Jeff
Click to expand...

Oh man. Its on the gear housing or the valve cover. You may want to check beside the drivers seat though. Sometimes the RVs have a few tags there to help. One may be engine info. You could also check the manuals that come with it. Otherwise you'll have to try and crawl in there to read it.
Does your bed flip up to access the engine compartment. I think it does on that model. You may find a tag there also.
 
As for power, I find it to be good, of course a little extra never hurts. But I would like to get an extra couple MPG's.
 
Okay...... Here is what I can tell you. There has never been any work done to that engine under warranty.
It is rated a 400hp, but the ECM is set to 380 HP and maxed out on torque at 1300 foot pounds. So... as far as Cummins calibrations go, it is set to max.
I do believe TS has a pressure box for that system, but you'll need to call them to know for sure.
The muffler is going to be a holiday rambler part, but you could put any horizontal type truck muffler on it with a little fab work and save quite a few dollars over what the OEM muffler would cost.
As I said before, add some lubricity to the fuel when you fill up, and that puppy should give you years of service. We have seen some transfer fuel pump issues with the caps system, so a fuel pressure guage is not a bad idea if you want to keep ahead of it. Change the fuel filters often. There should be two. One being a water separator. Keep a couple spares with you.
 
I'll second the lift pump/transfer pump comment...we use ISC's in combines, and have had a few failures like that.


I'm surprised you even need a muffler....
Chris
 
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