CR head on a 24v block

Excuse me buddy but if you don't have any input on this topic then keep your comments to yourself. I bumped my own thread so I could send a direct message if you must know but I'll bump it if I damn well please too.
 
That buddy is the forum owner. I think you should check your attitude at the door next time.


Sent via USPS 2 weeks ago
 
take your standard 24v head gasket and lay it on top of the bottom side of head and you will see the coolant ports that will need to be massaged over to line up better with the blocks coolant ports, Just use a die grinder with a good carbide bit and be careful not to get to crazy on the material you remove.

419-237-1521 Mikes # You only have to get the crossover tubes. Thanks Steve B.

Not sure what more info you need?
 
Well excuse me I'm sure I'll be kicked off now for that. But I don't need anymore info on the head. Does anyone else make these tubes or is monster pump mike the only one cuz I cannot get ahold of him and from what I've gathered on google searches of him he never responds to anyone.
 
No but when someone has something to say I prefer them to say it directly to me because that would be the mature thing to do.
 
No but when someone has something to say I prefer them to say it directly to me because that would be the mature thing to do.

Given the previous replies and your complaining about lack of help. I assumed you wouldn't be reading it anyway. But you're right, I didn't need to tell the others, they already knew.

BTW, I have a CR head I'll sell ya for 700 plus shipping :pop:
 
You can machine down the VP cross tubes to the same diameter as the CR cross tubes. Move the VP oring up to the CR location. The VP cross tubes work in a CR head. The VP cross tubes machine down fairly easy and should take about 10 minutes on a lathe.

You also need to machine a map/air temp sensor holes into the VP intake plenum cover as the CR don't have them. I done a few CR heads onto VP engines a few years back. I used the 12v/24VP head gasket for each of the engines. They all have worked out decently.

The best CR head is the 06/07 head, just because they seem to be more crack resistant. 03/04 heads have valve seat issues. VP heads are prone to crack between the intake/exhaust.

From flow bench testing that I've done, all the 24V heads (VP, CR and 6.7) will have similar air flow values.
 
What Mike said is true. They are all very close on CFM. The difference between them is not much. And not worth the trouble to change over. Don't expect much or if any HP gain between a CR head and a VP head.
 
been saying it since i swapped mine. spend the money on porting the vp head if you are after airflow. less head aches
 
My stock vp head flowed 135@.500 lift. Stock cr head flowed 152@.500 lift. After p&p vp head was 235 with intake still intact. Cr was 282 with intake shaved. I'm shaving the vp head next week but will not be flowing it. I'd guess it would be somewhere around 265 on the intake. Exhaust for both was around 250@.500. Just some hard facts for ya.
 
My stock vp head flowed 135@.500 lift. Stock cr head flowed 152@.500 lift. After p&p vp head was 235 with intake still intact. Cr was 282 with intake shaved. I'm shaving the vp head next week but will not be flowing it. I'd guess it would be somewhere around 265 on the intake. Exhaust for both was around 250@.500. Just some hard facts for ya.

Who did the flowing/port work?
 
A stock VP head at .400 lift flows
161 intake
173 exhaust

After I got done porting at .400 lift
233 intake
259 exhaust
With the stock intake on.
 
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