Cracked 53 block, need input

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mathews8pt

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May 31, 2009
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Put my truck on the dyno and found that my block is cracked. Really pisses the coolant out in the higher rpms:badidea:

I know the other vp blocks will work, but what about 12v blocks? Did all the 12v blocks have the hole for the crank sensor? And will everything else work with my 24v head/pistons?
 
I like how the block cracked before the stock head bolts gave out lol still on the stock head gasket and stock bolts, got to love that :lolly:
 
pm sent 98.5-00 must have storm block (24v) 01 -02 can get away with a 12v block
 
the 98 model 12 valves had the storm block.....just so you know
 
Skrogan said:
I like how the block cracked before the stock head bolts gave out lol still on the stock head gasket and stock bolts, got to love that :lolly:
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them main question is how long will ur block hold
 
mathews8pt said:
Put my truck on the dyno and found that my block is cracked. Really pisses the coolant out in the higher rpms:badidea:

I know the other vp blocks will work, but what about 12v blocks? Did all the 12v blocks have the hole for the crank sensor? And will everything else work with my 24v head/pistons?
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What did you dyno?


I've been waiting for my 53 to crack since I did the swap. Can you see the crack?
 
bsmith said:
What did you dyno?


I've been waiting for my 53 to crack since I did the swap. Can you see the crack?
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598/1072 in 3rd lockup. dyno operator thought that it had shifted to OD(felt the convertor lock) and started the run. Well when it shifted to OD he let out and it had made 598. That was with a 10,000lb load(whatever that means). Didnt get to put more load on it because it was shooting coolant out the block:lolly:

I cant really see the crack, its up behind the heat exchanger and only leaks when rpm/load is high. I actually drove 100miles home and the radiator was only 2" low.
 
mathews8pt said:
598/1072 in 3rd lockup. dyno operator thought that it had shifted to OD(felt the convertor lock) and started the run. Well when it shifted to OD he let out and it had made 598. That was with a 10,000lb load(whatever that means). Didnt get to put more load on it because it was shooting coolant out the block:lolly:

I cant really see the crack, its up behind the heat exchanger and only leaks when rpm/load is high. I actually drove 100miles home and the radiator was only 2" low.
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Sweet numbers! Your pump is not benched, correct?


Who's 6x16's are you running?
 
A 12v block will work just fine all the internal are the same just swap yours over. You don't need the crank sensor its ppump. Just did the swap in my wires 99 it cracked to.
 
fordnut said:
A 12v block will work just fine all the internal are the same just swap yours over. You don't need the crank sensor its ppump. Just did the swap in my wires 99 it cracked to.
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I need the crank sensor if i want the tach to work, which i do.

Bsmith, they are just a set of J&L injectors. Still had the plate ~ 3/4 of the way forward so it cleaned up pretty good. Pump has never been on a bench and i havent touched the barrels
 
mathews8pt said:
I need the crank sensor if i want the tach to work, which i do.

Bsmith, they are just a set of J&L injectors. Still had the plate ~ 3/4 of the way forward so it cleaned up pretty good. Pump has never been on a bench and i havent touched the barrels
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You need a crank sensor for more than just the tach....it is how the truck knows the engine is running. It controls the dash, air cond, tranny and charging system. I have a 12v block in my 1999...in order to make it work, I needed to machine the block for a crank sensor and use a 24v crank. I already had the motor built otherwise I would have found another STORM block. Hope this saves some troubles. And mine does have a Ppump
 
Thanks guys

I found a complete 12v out of a fedex truck(rated @ 175hp) that looks like it has the storm block i need. Any reason this wont work? assuming i use my 24v crank
 
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