cummins cooling kit

That kit routs more coolant to number 6 from the heater core return. (I don't know if it does so if the thermostat is closed.)

Opies and other bypass kits don't add coolant to the back of the head, but rather allow coolant in the head to escape at a set pressure and route to the radiator regardless of thermostat being open or closed. With these types pf bypass systems, coolant in the head is replaced by coolant already in the engine under pressure by the water pump. You're not introducing more coolant via another port.

That's the difference as I see it.




From the looks of it, perhaps the ultimate combo would be to bring new coolant in to the rear of the head via the PDP kit, and employ a pressure type bypass to allow it to escape.

Anyone have any thoughts on that idea?
 
Amish Elegance said:
From the looks of it, perhaps the ultimate combo would be to bring new coolant in to the rear of the head via the PDP kit, and employ a pressure type bypass to allow it to escape.

Anyone have any thoughts on that idea?
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I'm with you man, I've been thinking the same thing, but I figured I would be a sheep and wait for everyone else to try it out. So what are you waiting for, do it and let me know.:hehe:
 
I think you are mistaken. .:what:If you conect to the heater core return line as stated it should flow out of the block and into the cooling system.

Quote:
"This kit involves removing the rear freeze plug from the block and bolting a plate over it (shown in picture) and running a 5/8 ID coolant hose to the heater core return line.

This will eliminate the possibility of blowing the rear freeze plug and also help coolant flow along cylinder #6. The rear freeze plug is under a LOT of pressure.. I managed to blow 3.5 gallons of coolant out this port when the hose blew off."

I understand that this is a kit use by Cummins on industrial engines. I think you could plum this into the heater core supply and use it to pressure the back of the block thou. But if you do you could cause it to have more pressure yet kinda the oppisite affect most are affer. You would deffinently need a secondair relief.

I think you could use the kit from Hailey and get the same affect at less cost.
 
bearlysmoken said:
I think you are mistaken.

If you conect to the heater core return line as stated it should flow out of the block and into the cooling system.
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yea, so do i...

think there is more pressure in the back of the block than anywheres in the system so you wouldnt be putting anything in there, ony letting it out...

question is...where to route it from there. i dont think the heater core return is the correct answer, think ya gotta get it around the t-stat which would req some sort of pressure valve
 
Why so you think the heater core return isn't the answer. Why so you need to get it around the t-stat?

If you do it that way you wouldn't need a pressure relief valve and it would allow your cooling system to operate normally. I think the additional flow allowed to the 6th cylinder would make a big differance. If you do use a t-stat what would be the correct psi for 180 deg. water so it would open the same as t-stat or at least before the frost plugs blowout.
 
bearlysmoken said:
Why so you think the heater core return isn't the answer. Why so you need to get it around the t-stat?

...If you do use a t-stat what would be the correct psi for 180 deg. water so it would open the same as t-stat or at least before the frost plugs blowout.
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Thermostat = temperature

Psi = pressure relief

You need a pressure relief. The thermostat will not open at a pressure, only a temperature.


"heater core return" I read that as fluid returning from the heater core. Do you concur?
 
Amish Elegance said:
"heater core return" I read that as fluid returning from the heater core.

Do you concur?
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yupp, sure what it sounds like

i dont want mine plumbed into there

think it will work a lot better on the other side of the t-stat

but like you pointed out some sort of a relief valve must be incorp
 
I realize that t-stat opens for temp not pressure. that's not what I was asking the question was what kind of pressure is there in the rear of the block at the 180 degree opening of the t-stat? What psi would you need to have the psi relief open at to operate simular to the t-stat?

Yes the heater core return runs coolant from the heater core to the engine right by the water pump witch is right below the t-stat and top radiator coolant line. So the hot coolant should just cause the t-stat to open and allow coolant to flow to the radiantor. That is why I was wondering if you need a psi relief value.

You could also use the heater core suply line and use the heater core to dissapate some of the heat before it returns to the engine threw the return line. This should allow for additional cooling and help keep temps. down.
 
I put one of these kits on mine in June when I had the tranny out, though I just bought the parts from Cummins directly. As I undertand it, the coolant in the water jacket sort of dead-heads around cylinders 5 and 6. Plumbing the output of this kit into the return line of the heater core lets the normal flow through the jacket get some coolant around those back 2 cylinders. I haven't studied coolant flow diagrams to figure out if this plumbing configuration is a problem.

So far, I haven't seen that the engine runs much cooler or hotter by watching the temp gauge. I notice it seems to fluctuate a bit more on these hot days (100*) running around town with the A/C on. I can't help but think this is still an improvement over the stock configuration. The cylinder wall is just a fraction of an inch behind that big freeze plug. There can't be much flow around it that way.

The only comment I found before I did this is that the cabin heater doesn't work quite as well in the winter. I may decide to add a ball valve to shut down the flow to the heater return line this winter. We'll see.

This would be a real pain in the butt to install with the tranny in place, but probably doable if you're flexible and creative. Getting that freeze plug out would be tough.

-Jay
 
yea, deadheaded to the tune of 100-120 psi

water pressure

water is hardly compressable

dont know about ethyl or propo glycol

doubt it matters - gotta get the pressure out of there and around the t-stat

least thats how i see it


*ps - plumbed right, with a relief valve, your heater should not be affected
 
No water like most liquids are not very comperessable(they do compress other wise hydrolics wouldn't work.) Water compresstion isn't the problem. It's the steam created when the fluid dosen't flow there and that's what this is intendend to do make it flow. If water (coolant) is allowed to flow heat dosen't build up so steam isn't created and so neither is pressure. So if you allow the coolant to flow why would you need a pressure relief?
 
bearlysmoken said:
if you allow the coolant to flow why would you need a pressure relief?
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you wouldnt if you come back in anywheres behind the t-stat

if you come back in in front of it tho...

how would the thing ever get to operating temp?
 
do you always have to take everything out of it's contex to make you feel better? I didn't mean run it stait to the radiator. I'm sure that the little return line isn't going to keep the whole engine cool but i'm sure it would take longer to heat up. You could always put a ball valve in it like alot of other guys on here have and when it's warm open the valve.
 
i dont have a clue what you are referring to but ya oughta think about changing your nick

barelyabove70

iq
 
DTanklage said:
i dont have a clue
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*bdh*
I would say this pretty much sums you up.

May be you should change yours to (If you don't agree with me your stupid)
that way anybody new does lisen to you. I have seen what other and you have talked about and it always comes back to you taking thing out of contex to make you look smarter or right.:badidea:
 
bearlysmoken said:
do you always have to take everything out of it's contex to make you feel better?
Click to expand...

where did that come from? I didn't see him take anything out of context.

there are two ways I see to do it that wouldn't be a pain in the ass as I'm not inclined to pull over and open a valve on the bypass when the engine gets up to temp or I'm going to pull a big hill with the trailer on, etc etc.

first way I see is the cummins style, taking the pressure directly to the heater line, that way the coolant is circulating all the time but not making it to the radiator, that way you don't have any issues with warm-up time.

second way is the style where you take it from the rear freeze plug and go to the upper radiator hose, which would cause warm up issues by itself, so a pressure relief valve is put in the circut, that way it only lets pressure bypass when RPM's are up and producing a lot of coolant pressure in the back of the engine.

I really think the first one is the way to go, and has been said earlier I think it would be better to plumb it into the heater supply line instead of the return, that way you are not cutting flow through the heater core, this applies to non-trailer queens only obviously.
 
something I forgot to mention, it really doesn't take much flow to cause warmup issues, I've had thermostats fail in mine to where there was just a small little crack around them and it flowed enough that I never could get up to temp
 
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