cummins cooling kit

cetanefreek said:
where did that come from? I didn't see him take anything out of context.

I really think the first one is the way to go, and has been said earlier I think it would be better to plumb it into the heater supply line instead of the return, that way you are not cutting flow through the heater core, this applies to non-trailer queens only obviously.
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thanks, me either.

didnt the factory plumb some of the years different than others (heater core plumbing)? i know my '97 has two lines running along the motor but recall seeing some of the earlier trucks only have one. was thinking that may be why the instructions suggest what they do? prolly not, every core has to have a supply and a return...just trying to figure out why it would suggest that

*on all the trucks does the heater get its supply from the frt of the head and do they all return to the lower rad hose?
 
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my 01 supplies from the second port from the rear of the head and returns to the lower radiator hose, maybe they did that in an attempt to improve cooling to the rear of the engine.
 
thats interesting. sounds like they were aware of the issue. does yours have a small bypass hose up front? my '97 has like a 1/4" hose maybe 3/8 that goes around the t-stat. wonder if there is a pressure relief in there or if it is open???

(connects back side of t-stat to upper rad hose)
 
bearlysmoken said:
No water like most liquids are not very comperessable(they do compress other wise hydrolics wouldn't work.) Water compresstion isn't the problem. It's the steam created when the fluid dosen't flow there and that's what this is intendend to do make it flow. If water (coolant) is allowed to flow heat dosen't build up so steam isn't created and so neither is pressure. So if you allow the coolant to flow why would you need a pressure relief?
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I think that this has been discussed before.... The relief comes in as a means to have an intermittent or condition specific control. I wouldn't think that an orifice or similar would work as the pressure can build faster than can be relieved in that instant. Especially as water turns to vapor at a rate of like 6000:1

:Cheer:
 
no there is no external bypass, IIRC there are two very small orifices in the thermostat is all, no 1/4" hose or anything of that nature.
 
yea, i never paid attn to this before but its def a bypass. my earlier p/u didnt have one but i just got off the ph with a buddy that has replaced the hose on his and the fittings are just that...barb fittings. he was told it was to aid in the removal of air, same princible as drillin two 1/8" holes in the t-stat. wonder if that is why this truck takes so long to get to operating temps when its empty?

*maybe its also why when the gear vendors didnt shift and the thing pulled to 4200 it didnt blow the rear plug? dont think the gv likes my new turbo/inj combo. hehe
 
i have this kit on my puller/daily driver i have it plumbed right to the top raditor hose by the oil fill no issues with getting it up to operating temps it gets warm just as quickly as it used to before this mod now its summer so winter could tell a different story but so far so good
 
DTanklage said:
yea, i never paid attn to this before but its def a bypass. my earlier p/u didnt have one but i just got off the ph with a buddy that has replaced the hose on his and the fittings are just that...barb fittings. he was told it was to aid in the removal of air, same princible as drillin two 1/8" holes in the t-stat. wonder if that is why this truck takes so long to get to operating temps when its empty?

*maybe its also why when the gear vendors didnt shift and the thing pulled to 4200 it didnt blow the rear plug? dont think the gv likes my new turbo/inj combo. hehe
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That barbed fitting is a special fitting from Cummins called the jiggler valve. It is pretty much a check valve to get rid of air. It has a ball bearing in it.

Its listed in the FSM. Sounds goofy, I know.
 
I bought the Enterprise kit. It requires removing the rear freeze plug, installing a plate with machined plug & oring seal. Then routing a 5/8" hose to a relief valve before dumping coolant back into the upper rad hose. The kit works great! I had it adjusted wrong in the beginning & coolant temps never got over 180*. I now have it set to open at 190* & my temps never go over that, even when towing heavy. The kit was like $125 delivered to my door. Here is a pic of the relief valve installed.

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Back of the block or NPT port on the exhaust side of the head, it doesn't matter for the coolant bypass.

My original idea that could have been 'mistaken' was to bring coolant to the back of the head via the heater core return using the plate mentioned above, and allow it to escape at higher pressures around the thermostat via a coolant bypass from an NPT port in the head. Theirby delivering and evacuating coolant to the hottest portion of the head.

The flaw in my thinking is it probably wouldn't make that much difference I guess. The heater core supply is located in the rear of the head NPT port as well. Probably make for crappy flow through the heater core.

Made sense to me at the time, anyway. :doh:
 
HRDROKN said:
I think that this has been discussed before.... The relief comes in as a means to have an intermittent or condition specific control. I wouldn't think that an orifice or similar would work as the pressure can build faster than can be relieved in that instant. Especially as water turns to vapor at a rate of like 6000:1

:Cheer:
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That is what I was talking about. Has anyone tried to plumb it to the heater core return or intake and ran a pressure check to see how much the rear of the block has then?
 
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