Cummins NTC-350

Well fcked up big to one today. The cut for the key was to shallow, the key only went down in half way so the gear obviously wouldn't go down all the way. My father thought the gear was going to be to sloppy so we dropped the gear on with out a key and the gear stuck.

Now I have to figure out how to get the gear pressed off with out hurting the cam, hopefully return the cam and come up with a correct cam.

The number on the back side if the cam is 143450. Cody could you check for me and see if that is a good number. Thanks.
 
That is the number that comes up in quickserve, but it does cross to some newer numbers. The only reason I can think of the key not fitting right is that it is a 1" key instead of a 3/4" key.
 
Just measure the length of the key, if you need a smaller one they can be bought.
 
So is it possibly that this cam I got is an updated cam but still the correct cam for my engine. Especially since the number cross references to a new number. With the key being different I am concerned with the cam is the wrong cam.
 
The 143450 is what is shown, but when I go to cross the number and open the later number it gives me a few choices on camshaft numbers. I also can not see what key is supposed to be used.

What was the number on the cam that came out, was it the same.

I also use another source besides cummins, there is a company that sells parts called powerline components, the cam they list for your cpl number is 3023177, this cam covers a lot of small cam cpl numbers and takes a 3/4" key.
 
So I looked on the back of the new cam this morning. The part number is lightly engraved into the back of the cam, M-3023177. So this should be an updated number and updated cam, correct. Remember this is an aftermarket cam manufactured by Interstate-McBee, it is not a Cummins ground cam.

I am going to go to a Cummins shop today and see if I can get this gear pressed off and get a 3/4" key somewhere to put this thing back together. Now that I am 2 full days behind, hopefully I can have this back together and running by the weekend. I also have access to a timing tool from a friend of a friend that used to be a Cummins mechanic. So hopefully we can get this timing down correctly.

Thanks a bunch Cody.
 
Well I got my screw up fixed and the gear is off the new shaft. Also ordered a new key that should be in Wednesday sometime. With any luck this will be back together for the weekend!

I guess messing with this old iron a whole week longer should be factored in!

Thanks a bunch Cody, I really appreciate your help. Maybe I'll be able to make it to a pull out your way some time and we can meet up!
 
That cam is what you need, they just put the M on it for their part number.

The gear should be fine, only the length of the key should be different.
 
I really don't mind helping out, I'm proabably going to run into the same the same thing if I decide to pull mine out of the truck this winter and put a new cam in it.

I just finally got the injectors set right, turns out whoever put the thing together the last time it was apart did not line up the timing marks to put the accessory drive in the right place.

I think I am going to build mine to be equivalent to a fixed timing twin turbo engine.
 
I found it pretty interesting. before we took anything we ran the over head once. We set the accessory drive at the "A" mark the first time around, at the point where cylinder No. 1 would be firing. When we got the front cover off the timing marks were lined up perfectly on the accessory drive and camshaft, just where they should be. I'd be willing to bet that who ever had yours apart last, just threw the accessory drive gear back in and didn't pay attention to the timing marks on the gears.
 
Boy that idles nice. Of course mine was only firing on 5 cylinders last time it was running. I'm hoping I get a nice clean, smooth running truck when I'm done with this cam job.

What kind of RPM does yours idle at?
 
Thats what I thought.

My tach cable was broke when I bought the truck and haven't got a new one yet. We did have a phototach on when I first got it out, but it seems to be ****ting the bed. Last time we tried it out, the phototach said the motor was idling at 1400 rpm.
 
I may end up having a cable, all depends on if I can find an electronic to fit the hole in my dash of the w900, if not I will just be stuck with the mechanical one for now.
 
Well the cam gear is back on the camshaft with the "correct" key.

My father hasn't got any work lined up for today yet, so he is going to try to convince a friend to help him out and start to get the motor put back together. We are supposed to go pulling tonight, but it is supposed to rain this afternoon (whats new). If the pull gets rained out I hope to get a bunch of work done, if not I know how I'll be spending my Thursday night and most of Friday.

With all this waiting on parts I got the ball drilled out of the throttle shaft on my pump. I couldn't remember how many turns out you told me to go but I only went half a turn, probably go out more. Can the button and governor shims be changed while the pump is on the motor? If so I'll have to get part numbers from you Cody and change them out later. Thats the last thing I was thinking about when I ordered the cam key.

I'm supposed to be getting a turbo off of a later Big Cam from a friend that his family has been in the trucking business for a long time. This is probably an HT3B correct? I am also going to be getting an exhaust manifold off of a big cam. Hopefully this combination will allow me to put some more fuel to it that what this mongo charger can handle.
 
All depends on how the engine sits in the frame of the truck, I know I can't do it on my cabover, but I have changed them in a freightliner.

The pump guy is probably best to get you a #5 button and shims, I haven't been able to find the right part number for the button, and the one I had got left in the pump when we got rid of my T600.
 
I'm sure that I can get to the governor spring cover easy enough to change out the button and shims. What kind of numbers do they have on the buttons? Are they in 1, 5, 10 graduations? I may get a few to try out once I get my EGT gauge all hooked up and ready to go.

Last night we worked a bit on the motor. Most of the motor is put back together. I just need to run the rack and the motor will be done. Then its on to radiator, hood, coolant and oil. Hoping to have it all put back together and drive it around a little bit before we take off tomorrow morning. Ideally I'd like to be able to run the rack a 2md time before we go but I don't think that will happen.
 
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