Custom 12mm VE coming soon!

Nice to finally meet you also, Jason and to see the not-so rust bucket in person. :hehe: Feel free to post the video(s) and/or any pictures.

Word gets around quick! Yeah, same DynoJet from Jefferson State and 249 is all it did. 35-37psi and EGT's peaked at 1200. It needs more fuel and probably j-hook the wastegate shut. And yes, it did better, 263/610, on the same dyno 2 years ago with the original pump, 4x.014s, Banks I/C and 2.5" tubing and no Airdog. I really don't know what to do now. I wasn't talking any game, predicting any numbers. Was merely hoping for far better than 2 years ago. Needless to say, I was certainly disappointed and was even embarrassed to report any numbers.

I'm waiting for all of those in favor of a p-pump swap to open their mouths now. "I told you so..." :blahblah1:
 
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Eh, no biggie. A good set of injectors and another turbo under the one you've already got and you'll be where you want horsepower wise.
 
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I really don't know what to do now. I wasn't talking any game, predicting any numbers. Was merely hoping for far better than 2 years ago. Needless to say, I was certainly disappointed and was even embarrassed to report any numbers.

I'd listen to me if I were you LOL

I think even with the single you'll make more power at 40+psi with some big injectors and timing. I bought my 14mm head in 2007 and set the VE record in 2011 if that means anything ;)

I'll put a dyno vid up in a bit, I only have the first one, when you pedaled it.
 
Here ya go....

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnZxDpsaIIE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnZxDpsaIIE[/ame]

On another note, I'm still diggin the extra-long, longbed!
 
See how much smoke you had there? It's supposed to look like this :lolly:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKscUjeBmIo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKscUjeBmIo[/ame]
 
I'm waiting for all of those in favor of a p-pump swap to open their mouths now. "I told you so..." :blahblah1:

It doesn’t matter what they say don’t let it get you down. You did the right thing and go with a VE pump. When Ponci built me a motor it was hard not to convert it to a p-ump especially since all of the parts I needed to do the swap were sitting around the shop. I am glad I didn’t do it and I don’t think anybody can convince me that it is worth it.

I'd listen to me if I were you LOL
Oh man I have drank way to much hateraid to let this happen.

Jimbo486- Please don’t take this the wrong way, but something doesn’t seem right? Those injectors you have almost measure out to about the same as my honed out 370’s (5x013). I made 317hp with those injectors and a stock H1C/16. Put a full fledge HX40/16 on it and a couple of other little modification and it made 434hp.

Make sure to check the AFC line to make sure there aren’t any cracks. Jason is right check your timing, but please don’t try and push that turbo above 40psi. All you are going to do is super heat the air which will cost you HP and it might even cause the turbo to blow up. Your pickup doesn't smoke like it should to put up some big numbers especially since it has a VE. I am sorry to say that most VE cummins are pretty dirty if they are making some good numbers.

I know it is a drive, but if you came up for Ponci’s event (September 8-9th) I would be more than happy to take a look at your pickup. I probably won’t have my motor together by then so I will have quite a bit of free time and also some parts that we could bolt on to see if they help.

Oh yeah I am going to PM you my number if you have any questions.

Stomp
 
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I hope this isn't sounding like it's a problem with the pump. I know Giles can work some magic and I trust that the pump is not the issue. I went by his recommendations prior to install. The static timing was set at 1.3mm but I'm not sure exactly how many degrees of advance it has there or in the top-end. Could the timing be too advanced or retarded? Upon install, with the engine locked at TDC, firing at #1, pump locked at #1, everything lined up. It went in just as Giles said so I tighten the bolts and ran it as is. I'm sure he would tell me what timing is at if I were to call and ask. He may be quite puzzled as well when I tell him what it made.

Jeremy, I sure do appreciate those offers and I really wish I could do that. Unforunately, I'm working that weekend and being on probation doesn't permit me to put in for any time-off. I could, but it wouldn't bode well for me.

Back to the motor, I certainly don't like the idea of pushing the turbo over 40psi. If anything, 40psi at the very most. The wastegate is disconnected but not wired or tacked shut which allows drive pressure to open it around 37-38psi. I'm actually happy that it does but I still should have seen higher numbers. The short-block assembly is bone stock. Speaking mostly of the camshaft there. Valvetrain is as well. All of which have logged plenty more than 400k miles. I'll have to look closer at the AFC line. I did have to bend it some to get it to line up with the new pump. I was very cautious in doing so. Very slight bends to ensure that it wouldn't kink or break. The pump had new seals for the banjo fitting as well. The banjo bolt was tighten plenty. I suppose there is a chance it could have broken a pin-hole in it.

I'm at a loss. I've certainly got some money invested in the fuel system alone that I was certain should have put things at 400hp at the least.

A buddy of mine offered to send me his 68lpm DDP's to try out when he pulls them for emissions testing. Granted, they're for an i/c motor. Not sure how they'd perform on mine with non i/c pistons/bowls. Those same injectors, a Helix 2 cam and a supposedly "mild" Giles 12mm helped his lay down 445/925.
 
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I hope this isn't sounding like it's a problem with the pump. I know Giles can work some magic and I trust that the pump is not the issue. I went by his recommendations prior to install. The static timing was set at 1.3mm but I'm not sure exactly how many degrees of advance it has there or in the top-end. Could the timing be too advanced or retarded? Upon install, with the engine locked at TDC, firing at #1, pump locked at #1, everything lined up. It went in just as Giles said so I tighten the bolts and ran it as is. I'm sure he would tell me what timing is at if I were to call and ask. He may be quite puzzled as well when I tell him what it made.

Stomp, I sure do appreciate those offers and I really wish I could do that. Unfortunately, I'm working that weekend and being on probation doesn't permit me to put in for any time-off. I could, but it wouldn't bode well for me.
I am sure that it is not the pump and I don’t think in any way that you are implying that it was. (I have read that Giles knows his stuff when it comes to these pumps and I have even thought about calling him to ask some questions. The only problem is I don’t think he would give anything away so I haven’t bothered calling him. I can’t justify the price when I can get them rebuilt for next to nothing.) With the motor and pump both locked and the pump going right in I can’t really think of anything that would/could be wrong. If you can please check the timing with a light so you can rule some stuff out. I know for a fact that I can rotate my pump gear inside of the housing and I have messed up the timing when taking out a pump or installing one. Advanced timing can be just as bad as retarded timing when it comes making any power with the VE pump.

If you get time post up your dyno graph so we can see where the power started and where it started going down. Don’t worry about not making it up to the event it sounds like you have a valid excuse. Personally I would have left it with I have to work that weekend. Probation causes me to think of all sorts of things. I don’t want to know why so please don’t post anything. It would be best for both of us.

Stomp
 
It's only a new-hire probation, no funny business type.

I understand the pump gear can rotate upon install of pumps. I actually made a point to leave the timing pin in the pump gear to keep the gear from rolling off to the side. It just seemed to make sense that it would make install easier. Unfortunately I don't have a timing light be able to check timing at the crank. Even if I did, I'm not really sure I'd know to read it to be honest.

I'll get a shot of the graph tomorrow morning when I get home. The 249hp run peaked around 2500rpm.
 
It's only a new-hire probation, no funny business type.

I understand the pump gear can rotate upon install of pumps. I actually made a point to leave the timing pin in the pump gear to keep the gear from rolling off to the side. It just seemed to make sense that it would make install easier. Unfortunately I don't have a timing light be able to check timing at the crank. Even if I did, I'm not really sure I'd know to read it to be honest.

I'll get a shot of the graph tomorrow morning when I get home. The 249hp run peaked around 2500rpm.

Man I thought it was a different kind of probation. 2500 seems kind of high considering stock cam and your turbo however if full fuel is at 40psi? I think I read that somewhere to keep the smoke down it is possible.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
 
Giles tuned the AFC so that it doesn't reach full fuel until somewhere north of 30psi.
 
Well, at least you have a direction to go in.....your EGT tells you that you need more fuel, you don't know where your timing is at, and you could probably spin your turbo a little harder...by 40+ I meant 40-45psi, not 60psi. Since VE's are low rpm engines, you can usually push the boost a little more. I'd talk to Giles about the AFC set-up as well, and see if he has any advice on that. Don't worry, you'll get it, you have some good guys helping you out.

I try to help also LOL
 
Put a full fledge HX40/16 on it and a couple of other little modification and it made 434hp.

What were your EGTs with that setup? Honed 370s make good power....my cheater truck (p-pump) made 433rwhp on a basically stock 160hp pump with em.
 
Jimbo, I never seen where you said what you do with your truck? Is it just a cruiser or do you tow with it?
 
Sorry to hear your numbers didn't improve. Sounds like you're a bit bummed out about it, but there are several good VE tuners in this thread. You'll get it sorted out for next time.
 
Giles tuned the AFC so that it doesn't reach full fuel until somewhere north of 30psi.

I have no idea about the 40 but I found my best 1/4 mile times was when I had the fuel hit right as the stock H1C lit at 10psi. Too tight and I lost a couple tenths, too loose and I lost time.

I also have a DennyT 1 pin too.
 
It sucks going backwards, I've done it a few times, just keep working on it and you'll get there.
 
Jimbo, I never seen where you said what you do with your truck? Is it just a cruiser or do you tow with it?

Just a daily cruiser. My grandpa owned it since day 1 and it had a flatbed on it. He towed goosenecks around the majority of its life so it was practical for him. I wanted a standard bed. You can see what I had to go through to get that. I'd still have 8ft. if I were to install stacks AND a tool box :lolly:.
 
I have no idea about the 40 but I found my best 1/4 mile times was when I had the fuel hit right as the stock H1C lit at 10psi. Too tight and I lost a couple tenths, too loose and I lost time.

I also have a DennyT 1 pin too.

I'm on-board with Jason and others agreeing that it needs more fuel. 1200degs. is very low. I didn't pay attention to that gauge during the first run to even see where they were and didn't notice it until the 2nd or 3rd run. This pump makes 263cc's (max) at 2,000RPM engine speed. That's around 450hp worth of fuel. It drops a bit after that going to 233cc's at 3,000RPM and 220cc's at 3,500RPM.
 
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