Did I screw up?

schaef_12

schaef_12

Diesel Junkie
Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
248
I am putting a fire-ringed cylinder head on my 12v. DD. I have the new style 12mm studs, (not the 625's!!)

I have been doing some searching and it seems like people do not have good luck with fire rings and 12mm studs.

Do I need to throw down the $$$$ for the new 625 12mm studs?
I don't want to put 14mm studs in.
 
most will dis agree but i would run them and not spend 1,000.00 on a set of studs.peoplr seem to forget that before arp made diesel studs they ran firerings and orings with stock bolts.
 
i disagree, i have had them for a year today actually. i run right at 60-65 psi and have had no issues. even through my re-torques, i had no problems at all. not once did they ever seem that they have loosened up, after my year with them, i am very pleased, van had told me that this was the only way to properly fix a blown head gasket if you aren't planing on de-tuning the truck, he said anything under 75-80 psi is all the further you will want to take the 12mm studs, but at the same time, that is too much in reality. he also told me that o-rings are just a quick fix, like super gluing your sons toys back together, it will only last but so long.$.02
 
I have a buddy that runs the dogcrap out of his truck as in no warm up time, no cool downs and flat on the mat the rest of the time. it did have 260 ddp's, redline, smarty and hx50 66mm turbo. Now it has a Area diesel 13mm pump and 6x18 injectors and a s400 on 12mm arps with firerings and never once blown a head gasket. They have also been the same studs all along. I spent the money and went with 14mm studs because i was refreshing the motor anyway and it is deffinantly proven to work but so far so is his (3 years). Your choice, i'm just not that lucky. Tim
 
sweet, I have a good feeling about the machine work since I ordered a brand new head from PDP, and also had them do the machine work.

When installing the studs, why do you not want the stud to contact the bottom of the hole? Secondly, do I need to relube the studs on every retorque?
 
Glad you went with PDP!

But you shouldnt need to relube the studs since you just need to loosen them up, not take them completely off.
 
you don't need to re-lube for a re-torque,

as far as not having the studs contact the bottom of the hole, I haven't heard that before, all I did on mine was clean up the threads with a bottoming tap and put the studs all the way in with an allen wrench, then put the nuts on and start the torquing procedure.

for the record I could be wrong..... it's happened before!
 
just run them down snug do not tightem them. the idea of studs is to tske the stress off of the threads in the block. you want to talk lucky im still on the stock headgasket and stock bolts never retorqued or anything and i regualry see 50+ lbs of boost.
 
i did that last year, save your pennies!! that cold dense air will start moving in before much longer. remember cold air doesnt compress as easy as hot air, thus you will find out what out your gasket is made of. im not wishing bad luck on you or anything, im just letting you know what happened to me last year!
 
The reason to not bottom out the studs is because under high torques numbers, it can actually bust out the bottom of the hole and get in to the water jacket. This however, happens quite frequently when shops drill and tap for 14mm studs. You then have to use a sealer to seal the treads or have leaky studs all the time. My scheid block with 14mm got into the water jackets. My "no name" shop drilled and tapped my dually motor for 14mm and not one in the water jacket for less money, go figure. Tim
 
ahh that makes sense, I didn't tighten them just used a small allen wrench to make sure they were in all the way
 
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