Different style traction bars

Yeah that video keeps popping up in my news feed. I guess I don't really understand them. Mentions some sort of in cab control as well. I suppose if you could control the length of the rod in cab it would be nice for when you haul a trailer and such but the dampening of it confuses me. Maybe somebody more knowledgeable on the subject can explain it to us.
 
I guess I just haven't been able to wrap my head around any of the styles that have any sort of move able shackle or anything on the front mounts. Just seems like it would let the axle move "wrong"

On a side note, I recently made a "normal" style set of bars for my truck, with heim joints at each end in solid mounts, and for some reason I can't figure out, it sure seems like the truck rides smoother with them installed? I don't have any tension or preload on the bars, jam nuts tightened so I can slide the bolts in and out when I installed them.
 
with pressure in the cylinder, it prevents the axle from rotating the pinion up... helps with traction like a traditional style traction bar

but, with no pressure in the cylinder, it allows the axle to follow its standard arc and not bind up against the bars. so the truck can be used as factory... heavy towing, off road articulation, etc.
 
I guess I just haven't been able to wrap my head around any of the styles that have any sort of move able shackle or anything on the front mounts. Just seems like it would let the axle move "wrong"

On a side note, I recently made a "normal" style set of bars for my truck, with heim joints at each end in solid mounts, and for some reason I can't figure out, it sure seems like the truck rides smoother with them installed? I don't have any tension or preload on the bars, jam nuts tightened so I can slide the bolts in and out when I installed them.


The shackle type ladder bar control the axle from rotating(wrap) , while still allowing the suspension to compress freely and articulate to an extent depending on how they're made . With the ladder bar any axle wrap is transferred in an up and down motion to the shackle up front , and suspension compression in a fore and aft motion where the shackle is allowed to pivot .
 
with pressure in the cylinder, it prevents the axle from rotating the pinion up... helps with traction like a traditional style traction bar

but, with no pressure in the cylinder, it allows the axle to follow its standard arc and not bind up against the bars. so the truck can be used as factory... heavy towing, off road articulation, etc.
Ok, I think I'm understanding it a bit, but won't the suspension work fine if the bars are the correct length to match the factory arc of the suspension? I mean it already has some are to it with a fixed mount at the front if the leaf spring and shackle at the rear. I'm not arguing against how they work, just seems like a whole lot of extra unnecessary stuff to styles like this.
 
Different pressure on the cylinder will control the amount of wrap. More pressure allows less wrap. So that being said the in cab adjustment could just be a regulator.

I think it is a cool idea, however just can't see the need for something with that kind of adjustment. I mean why would you want the pinion to rotate up at all?
 
Different pressure on the cylinder will control the amount of wrap. More pressure allows less wrap. So that being said the in cab adjustment could just be a regulator.

I think it is a cool idea, however just can't see the need for something with that kind of adjustment. I mean why would you want the pinion to rotate up at all?
That's what I was wondering, why build something that can allow exactly what you're trying to eliminate?
 
That's what I was wondering, why build something that can allow exactly what you're trying to eliminate?

The only thing I can think of is a smoother ride. I know when I put mine on it made the ride a little stiffer as I imagined it would. Adding another solid link in my mind would cause a bind at some point...
 
The only thing I can think of is a smoother ride. I know when I put mine on it made the ride a little stiffer as I imagined it would. Adding another solid link in my mind would cause a bind at some point...
I had that thought too, but everyone that's rode in my truck since I installed the bars on it swears it rides smoother. I have no idea why it would, I'd have thought my results would have been more like yours, a little stiffer ride.
 
Different pressure on the cylinder will control the amount of wrap. More pressure allows less wrap. So that being said the in cab adjustment could just be a regulator.

I think it is a cool idea, however just can't see the need for something with that kind of adjustment. I mean why would you want the pinion to rotate up at all?

Those were my thoughts as well. It is like a box for your trans that lets it slip jusssst a little bit so your shifts are softer. I guess we can add adjustable to the list of diesel sales words.

Billet
Machined
Custom
Super Flow
High Flow
Wicked
Adjustable LOL
 
Different pressure on the cylinder will control the amount of wrap. More pressure allows less wrap. So that being said the in cab adjustment could just be a regulator.

I think it is a cool idea, however just can't see the need for something with that kind of adjustment. I mean why would you want the pinion to rotate up at all?


What about towing situations that compress the suspension. Thus allowing the pinion angle to stay where it should be
 
Ok, I think I'm understanding it a bit, but won't the suspension work fine if the bars are the correct length to match the factory arc of the suspension? I mean it already has some are to it with a fixed mount at the front if the leaf spring and shackle at the rear. I'm not arguing against how they work, just seems like a whole lot of extra unnecessary stuff to styles like this.

most standard bar setups do not allow much articulation. they bind up at the front mount

One Up's front mount allows some bar rotation/articulation.

This guy's setup just gives cab mount control over having bars or not. Loaded out new trucks are $70k these days. They've got everything but the kitchen sink in them. I like the idea, personally, and I'm sure many others will too.

2nd gen Dodge owners might prefer a length of drill stem welded between the frame and axle mount though :eek:
 
What about towing situations that compress the suspension. Thus allowing the pinion angle to stay where it should be


Geometry of the bars can be looked at to minimize the movement of the pinion angle.
 
What about towing situations that compress the suspension. Thus allowing the pinion angle to stay where it should be
I have airbags on mine, so towing squat should be very minimal. But I see what you're saying, but if the geometry is right they should work fine allowing normal suspension movement.
 
most standard bar setups do not allow much articulation. they bind up at the front mount

One Up's front mount allows some bar rotation/articulation.

This guy's setup just gives cab mount control over having bars or not. Loaded out new trucks are $70k these days. They've got everything but the kitchen sink in them. I like the idea, personally, and I'm sure many others will too.

2nd gen Dodge owners might prefer a length of drill stem welded between the frame and axle mount though :eek:
I see what you're saying about articulation, one of the reasons I used heims at both ends, instead of a bushing at one. I guess it's more about what you're doing with the truck, mine is dd/tow rig, with minimal trips through the field, so articulation is minimal.

I do agree some guys seem to really crave that "classic truck" ride of a near solid suspension!
 
only one hose coming out piston side of the cylinder , and I'm assuming it's air, doubting it's fed from a pressurized supply. I'm thinking its some type of valve that when open will free flow atmosphere and when shut will lock the air in place . Maybe like mentioned above either on or off type traction bar but not really seeing the benefit compared to a traditional system. You couldn't be able to adjust any preload unless it's a pressurized supply . And you would have to " lock" it in a relaxed state . if it does work the way I assume you would have "sponge" to it also to an extent , not sure how much the axle would move before the pressure built up in the cylinder is enough to overcome the force of the axle trying to rotate .

I might be totally wrong but Either way It's a smart idea .

Edit.. maybe a flow control and a valve , free flow one way a regulated the other to provide some sort of adjustable dampening , and valve to lock it all solid when needed ...
 
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If the rod side is open to atmosphere Im curious if you can induce wrap . A before and after video would be cool .

A 1" bore at 100psi gives you 73 lbs a side

1.5" - 176lbs

2" - 314lbs
 
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