Do I have the right turbo for the job?

Bersaglieri

Bersaglieri

Ron Swanson's Brother
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
1,957
I have a 1997 12 valve with these modifications:

DTT Transmission
89% DTT Single Dish Converter
3.55's
Multiple Plates [ #0, #100, stocker waiting to grind]
Phat Shaft 62/65/14
4" downpipe, 5" for the rest
3000 GSK Washer Mod

What I do:

I have a 40 foot gooseneck I'll be pulling occasionally [Once every 2-3 months, could swap injectors or plates] with a car or two on it.
Daily Drive, like to have fun, toy with ricers and sport cars.

Future Plans:

370's or 435's
4000 GSK

What I'd like:

Approx. 450-525hp/1000-1150tq [Dyno]
High 12's to Low 13's, or better

Can i reach my goals, or do I need a different turbo or setup?

-Dustin-
 
Looks like youre off to a good start. Heres what I would recommend, but this is just my opinion. Bump the timing to 17*. Put the 100 plate in. Get your AFC set up good. Buy the 435's. Get a valet switch to use when towing. Your turbo is just fine I think. 13s shouldnt be too hard to get, but i dunno about the 12s. Especially not if you dont have billet shafts.
 
I would get a 4k GSK and either set it up with all the springs or minus the middle sized spring. I have had that setup in my truck before and it drove great, just as smooth of throttle as the stock springs but fueled a lot better.

Modify your AFC to get full travel but control the smoke on the low-end. And for injectors I would do Smokem's 5x.014", that leaves a little room-to-grow.
 
Bersaglieri said:
I have a 1997 12 valve with these modifications:

DTT Transmission
Billet Input
Billet Servo and Accumulator
89% DTT Single Disk Converter
3.55's
Multiple Plates [ #0, #100, stocker waiting to grind]
Phat Shaft 62/65/14
4" downpipe, 5" for the rest
3000 GSK Washer Mod

What I do:

I have a 40 foot gooseneck I'll be pulling occasionally [Couple times a month, could swap injectors or plates] with a car or two on it.
Daily Drive, like to have fun, toy with ricers and sport cars.

Future Plans:

370's or 435's
4000 GSK
Timing

What I'd like:

Approx. 450-525hp/1000-1150tq [Dyno]
High 12's to Low 13's, or better

Can i reach my goals, or do I need a different turbo or setup?

-Dustin-
Click to expand...

I updated the modifications list. I do have a one piece billet input and other DTT billet parts in the trans [servo, acccumulator, etc].

What do you guys think about timing, is 17* the safe limit? The local shop recommended 18*, he said he ran close to 20* for a while but he could tell it was hard on the motor. What's stock timing on a 1997 Auto? Reliability is my main concern. How much does it help EGT's?

As far as plates go I just have those ones laying around. I know injector hole sizes and spray patterns, but what does the 265 BAR signify?

Sounds like I do have the right turbo for the job :st:

-Dustin-
 
Last edited:
bar is pop off pressure jim fulmer posted a link to convert it to psi in another thread
 
How would towing be with a Super Phat Shaft like a 62/71/14 or a Super B Special 64/71/14? Maybe a 64/65/14 like Forrest is selling? I'm looking for a turbo that I can tow with but handle some 435/DDP4 size injectors. Perhaps a 71 on the exhaust would cool things off? I want to be able to hit 12's no problem but towing must be part of the equation...unless a valet would solve the problem with bigger turbos.

What do you guys think? Take a small step up?

-Dustin-
 
Dustin, you can tow with just about any turbo with those smaller injectors... and actually, the smaller the turbo, the better off you'll probably be.

if you REALLY want to move some weight at higher speeds with a 12v, twins are pretty much your only option

I say hook the trailer up and see where you're at...

I will say that you're going to be able to run a good deal cooler at a given power level with the DDP4's vs. the 370's :o
 
Well I'll be pulling the 40 footer from NH to OH empty,then loaded from OH to El Paso, TX in Feb. I'll only have the mods listed with stock 180 injectors and my washer GSK. I dont want to go smaller than DDP4's or New Era 435's down the road. So as long as a valet switch will keep me out of trouble while I tow and the 62/65/14 will handle the injectors empty, while chasing 12's...I dont have a problem at all.

Then if I get into trouble just get a S400 or something under the bottom right?

Forrest, you dont happen to have a 5" tailpipe section lying around do you? I though i remember you saying you had one.

-Dustin-
 
the 5" tailpipe is gone :(

a valet switch isn't as important as proper AFC tuning... if you've got the AFC dialed in right, you can just drive by the right foot
 
Just out of curiousity what would be the difference between my 62/65/14 and 62/71/14? More up top, less down low? I see alot of guys talking well about the SPS 62 and I cant ignore it's fame.

Idono just something about that SPS 62...I cant put it out of my mind.

-Dustin-
 
The 62/71 wont be as good for towing, but will make more power when on the boost from everything i have heard. Id say if you are towing, keep the 62/65/14, and then later if it just isnt enough, you can sell it for a 62/71. How are your Wide Open Throttle EGT's with your current fueling and turbo?
 
Update: I got my hands on some real nice 5x.014 Injectors and I'll let you guys know how they are with pulling my 40' Gooseneck empty then with 8500lbs added to it. I also had the timing bumped up to 16.5 degrees to help things out.

I dont have any EGT numbers to report since I havent driven my truck in a while. I've been in training for 5 months.

I'm keeping my eye on Forrest's SPS 62 just incase the temps are too much with the PS 62.

-Dustin-
 
Last edited:
Bersaglieri said:
I'm keeping my eye on Forrest's SPS 62 just incase the temps are too much with the PS 62.

-Dustin-
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure the only difference between those two is the shaft size. I don't think they are going to change performance at all. Just reliability.
 
i think a 64 would be so much better if you match it with a quickspool manifold (so much more cooler air), theres not much more lag then a stocker especially if you have your afc tuned right
 
CrashCade said:
I am pretty sure the only difference between those two is the shaft size. I don't think they are going to change performance at all. Just reliability.
Click to expand...


The turbine sections are different.

SPS has a 71mm turbine, the PS has a 65mm turbine.
 
I think the 65mm wheel will be best for towing but you'll leave some high end power on the table without the 71mm turbine.
 
CrashCade said:
I am pretty sure the only difference between those two is the shaft size. I don't think they are going to change performance at all. Just reliability.
Click to expand...

Its the same shaft size. As Dan and Brett stated its a turbine wheel difference.
 
I towed this trailer from NH to NM and it was a nightmare. I dont know if it was because of the stock 180 injectors or the weight or both, but it was horrible. I tried tuning the pump the whole way to get a good balance of EGT's and power, but the best combo was a 0 plate with everything maxed out. Problem was I had enough power with the zero plate, but it was a constant battle with the EGT gauge. I'm taking the EGT's moved faster than the boost gauge...no joke. With a 5 plate or moving either plate around I barely had power to get up hills. I spent alot of time in 3rd just to keep the EGT's under 1300 even on the flat areas in Oklahoma. BTW, my EGT probe is pre-turbo on the back 3 side of the manifold. Although I know it wasnt light [40 foot triaxle with a 2004 Ford Lightning and a 1994 Camaro Z28] I figured it should have pulled it better. It was really bad when I hit 70 degree weather in high altitudes of northern New Mexico. I dont even want to talk about mileage, but lets just say single digit. I even had to take the air filter off when we hit high altitude to get EGT's down.

I had the timing set to 16.5 before the trip as some recommended and all that has netted me is alot of rough morning starts and popping plus some white smoke on part throttle decel.

I'm not sure if the 5x.014 injectors are the holy grail for this combo or what, but I cant see it getting any worse. I can say at a flat 70mph cruise my EGT's are about 1000-1100 with maybe 2-4 psi of boost. I'm only getting around 12mph with 90% highway driving. Max boost I can see is around 30psi empty, 37 psi with the trailer. Wastegate line is pinched.

Any help would be appriciated, since definately dont think I have the right turbo for the job anymore.

-Dustin-
 
im gonna say throw a ht3b under your stock turbo for a set of twins and that will give the air you want and you should be able to tow your 40ft trailer no problems.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top